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240 AW71L Questions

volvoboy90

sanna kärlek är svensk
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Location
Dayton, Ohio
Hello, TB! bought a JY AW71L for $250. It is from a '94 940. It supposedly only has 21,000 miles on the clock. :cool: Sounds pretty good so far, right?

It has been sitting on a shelf in a barn for 10 years. A Decade...:oops:

I do have a 90 day warrantee through the Junkyard on it. What precautions should I take while strapping this to my '89 244+t? I know a good flush is in order, and an accumulator mod will be done as well.

So, hit me up with what you think I should do prior to getting this swapped in, in place of my *second* AW71 which died a prolonged death.
 
Is a new pump seal terribly hard to do? If I recall from what I have seen, it looks like it is behind the plate behind the torque converter? I'll have to try to pick one up... along with a new pan gasket.
 
Pop old seal out, push new seal in. You don't have to remove anything to replace the seal. The pump seal is the seal the torque converter snout slides into.
 
I'd do the 2 o-rings under the converter housing while its out. If they are all shunk up (most all of them over 20-25 years old by now). There are two giant o-rings and shrink under there and leak a ton when it is shutoff. Trans has to be out of the car to change those, obviously. You will feel like a real genius if it leaks there.

Shift selector shaft seals may be dried up. They don't leak often, but sitting so long with no moving shifter and all they may have hardened up and stuck in position...some seals like that leak like crazy once run again. Those can leak a ton once in a while when bad.

I'd also replace the o-rings that are probably shrunk up around the cooling lines. MUCH easier to do with the trans out of the car. Costs almost nothing.

I'd probably chance it on the output seal...you can get to it with the trans in the car and risk it, but it probably isn't a bad idea.

Good luck. The two giant o-rings, and torque converter are pretty inexpensive, it's the same as a toyota A43D and those parts are still made in Japan for electronic valvebody versions of the 03-7x transmission built under license from Borg Warner made pretty much up to the present day...
 
Thanks, kjets I'm not too sure what two orings under the converter housing that you are talking aboutIf any. thing else, if you could post links to the parts, that could probably clear it up some.

Edit: Sorry, was browsing on my phone, but if you could pull up some part numbers, or anything like that so I can search on FCP or IPD, that's be great.
 
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I just mentioned buying real Volvo parts because that seal you linked to isn't a Volvo part. It's aftermarket.
 
I'm almost have fully started fixing my oil leaks. 940 leaks brown and red liquid.

Does anybody have more volvo parts numbers? I have to drop transmission when replacing crank seal, so I like to have all o-rings ready when putting it together.

Torque converter seal 1340096
Converter housing seal 6814812

Shifter seal ?
Cooling line seal 1233071
Trans rear seal 3549226
Crank rear seal 6842160

EDIT:
K-Jet.. this?
Oilpump O-ring (15) 1239673

http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/s...y_driveline=0&ukey_trimlevel=0&modelYear=1995
Thanks
 
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The two large o-rings are two different sizes. The one that goes in the groove farther forward by the pump is thicker and the one that goes back between converter housing and OD planetary housing ring gear is thinner.

I'm not near the vadis/vida computer to get you a part # for that, sorry. I will look for one in a volvo bag lying around here...I usually have one handy.

BE sure to get the converter on there properly.
 
Yeah... No problem, let me know, since IPD's selection is very small, and FCP has some, but I don't think they have all of what I need. As far as getting the converter, I know that much... which is why I am not doing it. I don't trust myself with something this serious, which is why I am having the person who modded and installed the aw71 in the Volvo I am driving now... install this one for me.
 
Here are some part number for you:

Transmission Front Seal 1340096
Transmission Oil Pump Seal 1239673
Transmission Bellhousing Seal 6814812
Transmission Output Shaft Seal Earlier '92- 235728
Transmission Output Shaft Seal Later '93+ 3549226
Transmission Pan Gasket 1239683
Transmission Shifter Seals 3549669 Need 2
 
Make sure when you put the pump back in, you put sealant under the heads of the bolts that retain it!

I've only seen it documented in the Volvo re-build manual, but I've never heard anyone mention it. I re-sealed my AW70L last May with volvo seals all round, but it leaks when off because I did not replace the sealant on those bolts and I've not yet got around to dropping the trans to re-do it.

I squeezed a bore-scope in the vent at the bottom of the housing to see where the leak was coming from, and its the damn bolt heads.
 
^correct. Used to have to do that on old Toyotas a lot when you'd get an old beat up flatbed automatic pickup that had been slammed around as a fleet car and ripped all the splines that hold the stator coming out of the pump housing. Lots of measuring, cleaning, and mixing around old AW pump parts from various dead toyotas/jeeps/volvos/whatever else takes an A43D/copy of borg warner 03-7x. to avoid having to replace a transmission. Usually replace the converter with another used one though if it has a any question of having a bad stator bearing or some such causing the splines to rip. Only ever seen 2 volvos do that. Rare but happens.

I usually stand them up more on end, and really really brush where those bolts go and the bolts themselves. You really have to dab away at it and sop up all that ATF in the pump, but put a little tiny bit on the pump splines gear with a lint free cloth, but not so much that it drips on relevant bolts. That toyota gray sealant (Toyota owns a large stake in Aisin) lasts really really well and is quite toxic and a copy of the german stuff. Torque is important, and you only want a dab of toyota FIPG under the bolt heads themselves and to let it setup a couple hours at least without any ATF on it.

It is very possible to make your Toyota A43D not leak 20 years at a time, however. The quality of the parts did get better up to later iterations of that trans that were used almost up to the present day really. The updated o-rings and seals and 93+ ones with OE seals are frequently pretty dry unless on hammered hot weather cars where every seal and o-ring is wasted usually.
 
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