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940 B234F head removal

Turbo'd 24erty4er

Turbo'd 24erty4er

Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2004
Location
Vancouver,B.C., Canada
After searching here and online for something definitive I have yet to find a comprehensive outline on removing a 16v head safely, I just want to insure it is done without any possible damage. I know about the upper cam carrier and the 25 odd huts that secure it and assume the cams need to be removed with it.


Is there anything to be aware of such as the cam followers, do they come with it or stay behind? Obviously once removed I can undo the head bolts which should be I would imagine done in a certain sequence. I have usually stated in the center and alternated, working towards the outer bolts on heads I have previously removed. Any suggestions would be welcome!


I have already removed the timing belt, tensioner etc. but not the cam gears, I notice they would have to be removed in order to get the back part of the timing belt cover off. Basically it is pretty well at the point of undoing the cam carrier nuts etc.
 
You gotta pull the cam followers/lifters before removing the 2nd layer. Keep them in order so they all go back in the same holes. I think my sig has the B234 green book.

In short, Valve cover (layer one), cam gears, dizzy, cams, lifters, cam carrier (layer 2), then the final layer with the valves. Having a mallet to bonk the chemical sealed surfaces apart is useful.

Like all cyl heads, remove the big bolts from the ends towards the center. You'll find a few of these are shorter than the others.

-Ryan
 
Agreed on pulling the lifters with pliers or vice grips and keep in same position.

Don't bind the cam and snap a chunk off. Done it. Lift it evenly.

Foam roller to install the pink goop on the way back together. It takes practice to get it correct.
 
Make sure the 14mm socket you use to pull the head studs is an impact socket. Someone else mentioned it and sure enough I did it by breaking my standard duty 14mm socket.
 
I use egg cartons to keep the lifters in their correct spots while it apart. Just number it I and E, 1 thru 8.

I use a magnet to pull them out. They don't grab easily.
 
Anyone have a favorite solvent for prepping the surfaces for pink goop? I had used brake cleaner, and now I've a leak 5 years on.

I will say: don't waste your money on a head gasket kit. I used an Elring last time around, and everything in the kit was throwaway but the head gasket itself.

-Ryan
 
I've just been using rubbing alcohol, after carefully scraping all remnants of the old pink goop off with a razor blade. The rubbing alcohol takes all traces of oil away.

The only time mine had leaks was when I tried IPD's cheaper version of the pink goop, it didn't seem to work well at all. Went back to the $$ Volvo pink goop after that, it's been dry.

Mine never seems to stay together that long though...

For gaskets I individually get OEM exhaust, intake (usually reuse that one), and valve cover gaskets. And the brown OEM cam seals. And a Cometic MLS headgasket.
 
ZVOLV said:
Agreed on pulling the lifters with pliers or vice grips and keep in same position.

Don't bind the cam and snap a chunk off. Done it. Lift it evenly.

Foam roller to install the pink goop on the way back together. It takes practice to get it correct.
Click to expand...

There's a tool for that. It works on both 8 valve and 16 valve heads.

CamHolder9995021.jpg
 
No need for a cam tool. Just loosen the bearing cap nuts half a turn or a whole turn at a time.

Arguably, the special tool 5021 would be more likely to break a cam than loosening the bearing caps uniformly. just be uniform. ;)

-Ryan
 
I did this in an hour having never done it before. I just unbolted both manifolds, pulled them to the side. Valve cover off, loosened the cam retainers a little at a time until there was no tension on them at all. Popped the caps with a soft mallet, so they'd unseat - gentle, gentle. Laid in order on cardboard, labeled everything. Lifters - use a magnet, label each, put in order. Then the top layer, just unbolt the 5 bolts then use the same soft mallet from the sides. A couple gentle hits should unseat the sealer, pop it off and put it aside. Then the 10 headbolts - 14mm IMPACT SOCKET, you'll split chrome. I do it the dirty way, and breaker bar them free then run them out with the battery impact. There's a specific order - I do the reverse of installation.
 
Pink goop

Do you know the oem spec or way to properly put on the pink stuff. Just did a full head job on my 16v and im leaking lots of oil lol. how thick or thin should it be? Thanks
 
Spotlessly clean - nothing tat you can even feel. And then get the aluminum dry of oil - I use rubbing alcohol.

Then I use a little foam roller for trim painting, and just put a nice even thin coat on both sides. Then stick it together while it's still wet (not that it really dries particularly) and snug up a bunch of nuts right away.
 
I recall VW, and the heavier follower was the accepted upgrade and cheap.
Also, what?s the importance of keeping the followers in the same orientation?
 
I think the VW lifters are a bit lighter, in addition to being cheaper.

With them being hydraulic and not shimmed for clearance, not as big of a reason to keep them paired with their cam lobe -0 but there's still an idea that the two have worn to each other. I honestly don't know if that's an old mechanic's tail or not. I tend to keep them in the same spots. But if they're mixed up I wouldn't worry about it.
 
I believe there are the vw light ones that are too weak. The heavy ones are not as heavy as the Volvo from what I recall.
I better do some searching
 
ZVOLV said:
Don't bind the cam and snap a chunk off. Done it. Lift it evenly.
Click to expand...

I wish I had seen this before I pulled my roughest one apart (other 3 are still fully intact) as that's exactly what I did, like a total n00b/idiot. However I have a lead on a pair of marine cams, so that could be a blessing in disguise :-D

Subscribed.
 
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