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240 What's the trick to getting the turbo out?

N

noexit

Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2016
Location
Tacoma, WA
I'm replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets, and probably rebuilding my turbo (Lots of oil coming into the intake from the compressor). I have the heat shield, exhaust flange, oil lines and manifold bolts off, but I can't figure out how to get the turbo and manifold out. I can't figure out how to get it past the oil feed tube. Is there a trick?
 
noexit said:
I'm replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets, and probably rebuilding my turbo (Lots of oil coming into the intake from the compressor). I have the heat shield, exhaust flange, oil lines and manifold bolts off, but I can't figure out how to get the turbo and manifold out. I can't figure out how to get it past the oil feed tube. Is there a trick?
Click to expand...

Mechanics 101
Remove the shift in you way


But I'm confused... you say the oil lines are off???
 
Either bend the oil feed tube or unhook the other end of the oil feed tube and take it with everything.

I usually bend it on the later mitsubishi turbo's on B230ft's, but might not be the best thing on a b21ft with T3. You should be able to unloosen the other side of the oil feed tube on the motor and then it will pull off with the rest of the stuff.
 
You have to remove the oil feed. You will kink it on a B21FT if you attempt to bend it out of the way far enough.
 
Yeah you have to bend the tube, but it may break. It might be best to loosen the banjo at the block, maybe not even remove it all of the way to save some work on reinstall, and then see if you can swing the tube outta the way.
 
I missed that step in the manual. Reading other posts, it sounded like you could leave the oil feed tube in place. Makes sense, and not too hard to remove it.
 
The other thing - loosen the nuts holding the lower passenger engine mount bracket to the crossmember. That way, you can have someone pull on the engine from the driver's side while you pull the turbo/manifold up out of the hole.

-J
 
I had trouble finding clearance to remove the turbo from my '82 244 Turbo, so I got more room to wiggle the damn thing out by removing accessories / components toward the front of the engine that interfered with its removal, e.g. alternator, coolant hoses and the like.
 
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Same symptoms of my turbo (oil soaked intake and air filter coming from leaky compressor seals). I've recently removed my turbo/manifold from a b21ft. Went with the advice above and loosened the engine mount on the passenger side, then jacked it up and "POP" went the drivers side engine mount. The silver lining, with the drivers side engine mount removed and the jack still under the oil pan, the engine easily moved aside and let the manifold/turbo unit slide out. Pay attention to the fan shroud as well. (This is all for the reader, not necessarily any benefit to the OP at this point).

Also, +1 on the removal of oil feed line. 19mm banjo on that was much easier to reach than the 13mm connecting the oil drain tube to the turbo.

Now, what socket do i need for the turbo-manifold bolts?
 
Any high quality 12point socket. I don't remember the size on them but a well made 12 point will take it off. Or a box wrench with twelve point will fit as well.
 
^^^ Got some new inspiration for removing the turbo from my B21FT ^^^

Unbolting the right engine mount and jacking up the engine...that's something i haven't tried yet.

Will a 90+ manifold make it easier to install and remove the turbo?

dl242gt said:
Any high quality 12point socket. I don't remember the size on them but a well made 12 point will take it off. Or a box wrench with twelve point will fit as well.
Click to expand...

Does anybody know the exact size???
 
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motor mounts and manifold bolts

mark244turbo, I removed the 3 17mm nuts on the lower side of the passenger side motor mount, then I'd recommend removing the driver side motor mount entirely (another trio of 17mm nuts on the lower side, and 3 easy-to-reach 12mm or 13mm bolts into the block). IF YOU DON'T, you may risk snapping the rubber on the driver side motor mount like I did. With it out of the way, and a jack under the oil pan, a third hand can easily pull on the oil filler cap from the driver side and the motor will freely move out of the way. Easy.

The bolts holding the turbo to the manifold are 12pt 12mm. After you pry off the retaining clips, drench those suckers in penetrating lube from both sides.

I've been told that a 90+ manifold does exactly that, but you've got to modify your oil return lines and some other things. I'm sure you can find a thread about it.
 
dl242gt said:
As blue 245 suggested. Unbolt the right side engine mount under the cross member. Jack up engine and easily remove turbo and manifold.
Click to expand...

^^ This. The exhaust manifold studs don't allow the turbo to come off without tilting the engine. At least, not without scratching paint off the inner apron and bending crap, damaging the threads on the studs etc, etc.
 
mynameistimo said:
mark244turbo, I removed the 3 17mm nuts on the lower side of the passenger side motor mount, then I'd recommend removing the driver side motor mount entirely (another trio of 17mm nuts on the lower side, and 3 easy-to-reach 12mm or 13mm bolts into the block). IF YOU DON'T, you may risk snapping the rubber on the driver side motor mount like I did. With it out of the way, and a jack under the oil pan, a third hand can easily pull on the oil filler cap from the driver side and the motor will freely move out of the way. Easy.

The bolts holding the turbo to the manifold are 12pt 12mm. After you pry off the retaining clips, drench those suckers in penetrating lube from both sides.

I've been told that a 90+ manifold does exactly that, but you've got to modify your oil return lines and some other things. I'm sure you can find a thread about it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice.
 
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I've usually avoided using the floor jack, and just had someone pull the engine to the driver's side to get the turbo either in or out. That way, you don't have to remove the driver's side mount bracketry. If an extra hand isn't available, use a ratchet strap attached to the manifold, then to a hook or something heavy in the garage. Tighten the strap until the engine tilts over enough to give room for the turbo to move.

-J
 
With respect to the turbo scratching paint off the strut tower, it may still happen with the engine tilted. So, maybe use a fender cover, but with the longer piece flipped around so it extends into the engine compartment.
 
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