• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

DET17's "Project cheap thrills" - '92 944T

Sign up for Eurofest in Greenville last weekend in October. That will give you a firm target to shoot for.
 
TestPoint said:
Sign up for Eurofest in Greenville last weekend in October. That will give you a firm target to shoot for.
Click to expand...

I'd love to see your Bertone..... we'll have to see about the end of October, that is when I normally trout fish the Smokies (GSMNP) right before the time change.
 
Wasted spark redux

In my original version of the vaunted Buchka Bros. wasted spark, I used a non-chippable EZK, the original from my 92 940T. For the last hurrah, now fitted with a Mitsu 19t and a real intercooler (with the resulting boost temptation) I decided to upgrade my ignition to the gold box EZK with the daughter card that allows chipping the ignition. I've long owned a gold box EZK with TLAO ignition chip for "more retard" when boosting, but decided not to risk damaging the printed circuit board with my beginner soldering skills (decision made back about 5 years ago). Since then I've raised my game in soldering electronics, and decided to proceed.

Here we see the rev.1 wasted spark alongside the redux version 2:



Note that the molex 2 pin connector position must flip when using a chipable EZK, compared to my rev.1 version. That presents a bit of a hassle when fitting the EZK back into the factory mount, as the molex connector & wires encounter the cabin sheet metal above the brake pedal. I've had to rotate the EZK 90* to provide clearance for the wasted spark output wires...as well as a modification to the mounting of the EZK.

In more detail:



You can see the wiring routing for the 20ga control and output wires (all TTL sized; nothing here carries any current and is all 5V max). Note the black colored 2nd generation BuchkaSpark board. Compare the new (old) version:



I believe this little green WS board is from the original Buchka Bros. group buy.... it is labeled #19 on the back. I bought this from a TBer up in Alaska..... so it's pretty well traveled ;-)

Notice the different wire landing points on the board.... the brothers revised the arrangement, I'll assume it was done for "cost down", but I can't really say. The small 20ga wiring was donated from a Megasquirt harness leftovers... and while I'm no soldering expert, as best practice I tinned both the stripped wire ends and the various landing points prior to final solder assembly. A little 25watt Weller soldering iron was all that was needed. Anyone going down this road - study some training videos on soldering before you ruin your parts... and practice on a trashed PCB before you add the ground connection; that was the tricky part of the assembly.

Some closeups comparing the boards:




Most importantly - the new (old version) wasted spark works with my gold box EZK and TLAO ignition chip. She fires up and purrs nicely, what with no exhaust cat back!

Next tasks - installation of my 740SE front fog lights, and the MIG work fitting and welding my stainless 409L pipes to complete the exhaust. Once these are done, the car will be dangerously close to heading for paint.
 
Much to late to be of any use, but as far as paper filter replacements for a 76mm AMM

Mercedes 2710940204
Height [mm]: 249
O.D. [mm]: 132,5
I.D. [mm]: 77,2

gpcuq7xl.jpg


or you go overboard and use the Mercedes 6110940204

MIt7QFil.jpg
 
Last edited:
Excellent work as always. Pretty exciting that you're getting close to having the car on the road. I didn't know you were having it repainted too. Dang! Looking forward to seeing the final product.
 
Last edited:
I promised the Wife (CFO) that I'll be driving this sedan to retirement, so I'm going for broke (near literally). A new windscreen will be installed just prior to the paint work, and then hopefully continuous daily service.
 
M.H. Yount said:
I'd remove the old windscreen just before paint -- and install a new one just after..... I screwed that up on mine.
Click to expand...

Well my glass guy is 4 miles away, and the paint shop is 30+ miles away. I don't personally see any benefit to glass post paint...... all the glass guys can do is nick my new paint during the install. I'd rather chance some overspray on the glass..... and I'll be clear to them that the glass is NEW, so they'd better not damage it.

Next updates - 740SE fog lights and the MIG weld out of SS exhaust from the cat back.
 
It's the masking around the rubber/paint line I wish I'd avoided. Figured, as is the case for almost all glass shops, they'd come to the car. So you drive to paint -- glass folks remove (or the paint shop does) and then new glass installed after paint. Paint shops deal with this all the time. But if your glass guy only works out of his shop....I understand it raises some logistical issues.

I'm in the middle of trying to secure wider windshield trim for the replacement flush-fit windshield for mine -- so when I put the new glass in it covers up the paint line. Unfortunately, the trim on the replacement glass is slightly smaller than the old style 240 trim.
 
The windshield pinch weld is a prime place for rust. See a spot, it is a lot larger under the glass. Best to treat any before paint.
 
M.H. Yount said:
It's the masking around the rubber/paint line I wish I'd avoided.
Click to expand...

A pillar and top windscreen trim removed; this is a different dance on the 7/9 than the antique 240s. I will need one of those "flush glass seals" for my 242, which I think were OE in 92 & 93 models.... but I digress.

In my case the trim is off, so they can shoot my repaint right down to the clips for retention of my trim, and their DOW glass sealant adhesive.

Glass guy changed my 92 745T yesterday, it looks damn good. I'll be glad to have nice new China glass to look through for the balance of my ownership of Cheap Thrills. He's been at the same location since '72 (Father & son operation), and the only China glass he uses is the same company that is OEM on KIA and Hyundai. He agrees that most of the aftermarket China glass is crap.

And for TestPoint: the DD is rust free - car purchased new in ChattaVegas TN and has never left the SE. I've sure seen my share of rust around the windscreen pocket on other vehicles, rust belt vehicles in particular.
 
Last edited:
DET17 said:
In my case the trim is off, so they can shoot my repaint right down to the clips for retention of my trim, and there DOW glass sealant adhesive.
Click to expand...

Ah.....keep forgetting they're not all the same.

Who/Where is your "glass guy"?

I think you'll find that the ONLY windshield you can get for your 240 series of any year is the flush-fit late model unit. Many stories out there of folks with older 240's being told by glass companies "sorry, we can't get a windshield for yours" not knowing that the newer unit goes right in the older car. But - apparently a paint line will show.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top