Pin 15 is always juice. Pin 30 is output. 87's are control side of the circuit on a relay.
I create my own tests all the time. In this case you could access the relay and do power tests there. See if you have juice to 15 and see if you have juice at 30 while cranking. Pop cover off and watch inside. And or pinch the contact shut and fuel pump should run.
If the contact isn't closing on cranking. Suspect what tells it to close= rpm sensor circuit.
Resistance check the sensor to look for an open circuit is fast and will tell you if the sensor is open =busted. But doesn't conclusively tell you it's good. First inspect for bad wiring inside and out of the distributor. Then develop a test method. A scope would work. Or other methods/tools. It makes an AC voltage right.....?
I haven't tested to see if it has ac, to be honest, not knowing how the system worked, once I found I had no spark from the coil and its not a points distributor I wrote it off as the problem, but I'll check that tonight when I get home.
I read somewhere that the tach needle will move when cranking, is that so? because mine doesn't, which would lead again to the RPM sensor.