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redblock straight eight?

Go for it.

Back seat drive?

Could be an interestin project but ultimately there are much easier ways to go fast.

3 redblocks side by side and wiiiiiiiiide body ftw.

Go for it.

Shouldn't be more than a little ticky tacky with the mig to fuse a couple 240's together?
 
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make it a boxer 8 or just 2 inline 4's next to eachother, 2 gearboxes, 2 driveshafts and get 2 diffs with the left's right and the right's left connected. EASY.

Or weld the front of the gearboxshaft (don't know its name in engrish) to the crackshaft and make a hole in the pulley and push it over. again: easy

oh, mount the 1st engine on rails and make some sort of locking bracket som you can take the engines appart withouth havind to remove it (to change the balt or anything.

FAKE EDIT: I wouldn't mind no belt accesabillity, I doubt this thing will live longer than the belt
 
Like this? Good luck fitting that in a 240.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/34Rb_kw_NIs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>





It's been done many times in the worlds of big buck drag racing, salt flats, tractor pulls, semi tractor pulls-but horrendously - even astronomically and absurdly expensive, convoluted and needing constant and very extensive fettering. It's a very interesting and stimulating challenge- but only for courage and pocketbooks extending beyond lunacy.

One of the hottest I ever saw was two big bore road bike GSXR cranks sculpted into an impressive HP to weight advantage- in FOUR wheels.
But better for dreaming than doing, at least for this little boy with little boy pockets.

Here you go.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/5YAFMZyBPI4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Could you just weld the cranks nose to tail and megasquirt it or something? Not should you, but could you. Benchrace yoloswag, but what would need to be done to make it happen?

Yes, one could weld or otherwise couple two redblock CSs together to arrive at a straight 8

back in the *very* early days of racing,,,Harry Miller's 91 ci 4 cyl engines were often coupled together in this fashion, and in V form too, as were many other small engines.

FWIW regular production Straight 8s were made by Packard and Pontiac years ago.

FWIW *Contrary to popular belief*...first American V8 was made by Chevrolet in 1917. it is in the Smithsonian Institute.

It greatly resembled, in outward appearance, the 348/409 that Chevy later produced and sold in the 60s. IE: the "W" valve covers.
 
cut the front and rear ends off blocks, then weld them together. Then cut and weld two cranks. Then do the same with a couple of heads and cams and valve covers. And an oil pan. And intermediate shaft. Might as well leave two sumps and two oil pumps and two filters. You'd probably want a round tooth kevlar timing belt up front. Might as well go for 2 16V heads as well, 32 valves are better than 16.
 
Why would you go to all that work with a redblock? A stock Honda head flows more than the best modified Redblock. I know, I spent 7K making a Miata head flow like a Honda. Of course you would have 5 speeds in reverse but............

Larry
 
You don't need a belt or chain for the front of the rear engine. Just place a guibo on the cranks and cams, and run electric water pumps. Rigidly mount both engines in a cradle of some sort to minimize movement between the two, and go from there. You could even clock the engines 45-degrees apart and fire it as an 8-cylinder using EDIS or individual coilpacks using a Yoshifab CAS on the front engine.

The beauty of the 8v redblocks being non-interference engines, so if one or both guibos break, there's no damage done.
 
Yes, one could weld or otherwise couple two redblock CSs together to arrive at a straight 8

back in the *very* early days of racing,,,Harry Miller's 91 ci 4 cyl engines were often coupled together in this fashion, and in V form too, as were many other small engines.

FWIW regular production Straight 8s were made by Packard and Pontiac years ago.

FWIW *Contrary to popular belief*...first American V8 was made by Chevrolet in 1917. it is in the Smithsonian Institute.

It greatly resembled, in outward appearance, the 348/409 that Chevy later produced and sold in the 60s. IE: the "W" valve covers.

A full decade after Britain's 1904 Rolls-Royce Legalimit, Cadillac produced the first American V8 engine, the 1914 L-Head. It was a complicated hand-built unit with cast iron paired closed-head cylinders bolted to an aluminum crankcase, and it used a flat-plane crankshaft. Peerless followed, introducing a V8 licensed from amusement park manufacturer, Herschell-Spillman, the next year. Chevrolet produced a crude overhead valve V8 in 1917, in which the valve gear was completely exposed. It only lasted through 1918 and Chevrolet would not produce another V8 until the introduction of the small block in 1955.
-wiki


or:
1904
http://bangshift.com/blog/gearhead-history-name-the-first-v8-powered-car-in-america.html

1913 Detroit?
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=358193&highlight=scripps

Once again why do ever think you actually know what you are talking about?:roll:


Contrary to what popular belief?

Next time you think you are enlightening people with "facts" just turn off your computer.
 
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Packard has an I12 engine:
packard_straight_12.jpg


http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/m...de=thread&topic_id=5289&forum=1&post_id=56406
 
cut the front and rear ends off blocks, then weld them together. Then cut and weld two cranks. Then do the same with a couple of heads and cams and valve covers. And an oil pan. And intermediate shaft. Might as well leave two sumps and two oil pumps and two filters. You'd probably want a round tooth kevlar timing belt up front. Might as well go for 2 16V heads as well, 32 valves are better than 16.

:rofl:

Best post in the thread so far!

You forgot the Just part in the beginning of your post however.
 
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