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My new winter beater

I installed a cheap boost gauge in the car since Volvo provides no way to monitor boost levels. I didn't see any great places to mount the sensor so I put it on the torque rod.
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Routed the wiring through the front fender and then down into the dash through the side. You can see where someone welded the door hinge. IIRC these cars have an issue that causes the door hinges fail and cause the door to make popping sounds over time. I assume that's what the welds were for.
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Former Ipd pod gauge from my old 850. Fits the V70 pretty well.
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I decided to investigate why the sunroof isn't working. Motor does seem to work. The cable running along the passenger side is completely stuck though. It sounds like it would be cheaper to replace the entire sunroof assembly with a JY unit than to replace the cable.
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The sunroof is now currently stuck in the vent position. I'm hoping that if I disconnect the cable from that side tomorrow I can at least get the sunroof closed.
 
Got the roof closed. I cut out a section of the cable for now. That will at least allow me to vent the sunroof until I find a used assembly.
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Today I installed a pair of lightly used Nivomats. I've noted that the installed ones look pretty sad.

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The old one drops down once the top bolt goes. The car has to be jacked up pretty high to wiggle these out.
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One of the newer ones next to the originals. The original set looks like it has had a hard life. It seems like the drivers side one (the one that appears to leak) was taking longer than the passenger side one to level.
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These little bushings run $65-80 a piece. :wtf:
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With the nivomats out I had easier access to the swaybar end links so I replaced those.
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The top bushing before lowering the car for the final tightening.
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I still have a clank/clunk sound that's coming from the drivers side of the car when driving on rough roads. I'm starting to wonder if it's from the bump stop that's sitting loose in the spring coil.
 
You're doing a lot to the car for winter beater status. I have a soft spot for these, I hope it treats you well.
 
You're doing a lot to the car for winter beater status. I have a soft spot for these, I hope it treats you well.

I also want this car to be a solid back-up option to the other two. I like my cars to be road worthy enough to travel anywhere if needed, though this one will probably never be driven on any long trips. This car also gets better MPG than the other two.

I've felt better about putting money into this car since the oil consumption issues all but vanished when the new turbo went in.

I think I'm going to try to remove the failed bump stop from the spring to see if that gets rid of my noise. Every part I grab under there feels tight.

I have a 60 lb box of brake parts for the next part of this project.
 
I *think* I found the source of my sound. I've always thought it sounded vaguely like someone whacking a flag pole with a piece of metal. I found this oddity under the drivers side rear. I'm not quite sure what's going on here.
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It does appear that one of the U-bolts makes contact with the rear subframe. To experiment I cut a little bit of the u-bolt away.
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The sound almost completely vanished after doing that. I can only vaguely hear it when driving over really big bumps.

I also replaced the front rotors and pads.
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Now I'm probably guilty of spending too much on this car. The front end developed a bad creaking noise. I diagnosed this as coming from the passenger side front shock. The top of the strut assembly on that side spun freely. They were replaced last in 2013 with Gabriel brand struts. I didn't feel it was worth my time to **** those so I bought to Sachs quick struts. The creaking sound is gone and the car actually drives a lot better. I need to get an alignment now though.

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I was also surprised to see that the galleys on top aren't filled with oil.
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Dealer aligned the car. The dealer also said they couldn't get the right rear camber within spec. They claim the car needs new rear control arms, knuckle bushings and possibly a rear subframe. That's all well and good except they're the ones that claimed to have dropped the rear suspension only 1000 miles ago. The PO wasn't happy with the repair as noted on the 4 pages of receipts from return visits. I've trouble believing they didn't notice those things when they claimed to have dropped those pieces.
 
My theory that my clunk was coming from the exhaust was completely wrong. I fixed the clamp situation with a strap band clamp, but the sound was still present.

On a lark I tried tapping the wheel hub with a rubber mallet. I thought I actually could hear something rattling inside. I remembered that once upon a time we had a S70 that was making a horrible racket from its rear wheel. It turned out that the parking brake had disintegrated. In that case it was more of a horrible rattle sound than a clunk.

I removed the rotor... and sure enough the parking brake shoes were loose inside. The dealer charged the PO to remove these, but all they did was cut the parking brake cables.

The clunk is now 100% gone. I still have an interior squeak to find though.
 
I decided to be stupendously stupid and swap the turbo again. I falsely believed there wasn't much that could be done with the LPT motors, but I have since learned that's not true. I swapped over a T5 ECU, refurbished white injectors and a 16T with ARD wheels.

So now it's a T5 with higher compression... sorta.

This actually took longer the second time around for some reason. :-(

I was running 9-10psi with just the T5 ECU and 13T. When I added the 16T and injectors that dropped to 8psi. I'm not sure why though. The engine also sounds a bit different.

I did remember from last time around that some of these little coolant hoses needed replacing. There's much more access to them with the turbo removed.
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13T and 16T.
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White injectors installed.
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[/IMG]My wife’s 99 v 70 never had good headlights I tried replacing the lens the bulbs finally saw a post on the Internet about replacing the lights with ones from a c70... man it was light installing projector lights in them....
 
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I like the LED bulbs. They are plug and play. The dust caps even still fit. I did find that most of the adjustments on one side no longer work, but it sounds like that's common for p80 cars two decades on.
 
I finally got around to replacing burnt out instrument cluster bulbs. I originally intended to use the IPD led kit, but the OEM bulbs are almost $40 less.
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I decided the wisest thing to do was get this thing tuned. I ordered a tune from vast. I'm still in the data logging stage but so far things are going well.

I also replaced the plastic ECU vent hose with a new one. The old one was held together with tape.
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