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Upgrading a stock TD04H-13C

See if this helps

90+ and td04 turbo makes it easy other wise you need a 90+ manifold, and the right oil lines for your turbo (they are different between the -89 and 90+ manifolds). The flat is on the later cars and flows much much better, conical is on the older. Conical is what your DP is now so the advantage is it will hook right up (or should) but it's really restrictive.

To install you need to remove the pin, to get it out remove the compressor housing (it's held on with a giant snap ring, c clip what ever you want to call it). Grind or cut or some how remove the pin that keeps the housing from being rotated. Clean the groove where the ring fits really well, usually they are kinda a pain to get out. Put the compressor housing back on. Clock it so that when you put the center housing back on with compressor housing that the oil feed and the compressor outlet both point "up" (your oil feed is in the same place as before, on the top of the turbo). This doesn't have to be perfect, just close, i'll tell you how to adjust it later. Pull your old turbo off the car, leave the manifold and lines in place on there, I would port the manifold outlet some while i was in there but that's optional.


Once the old turbo is off undo the vband which holds the hot side to the centerhousing on your 15g. put the exhaust housing onto the manifold bolt it down (it's a bit of a pain but not too bad) use new nuts (should look like this when you're done http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs519.snc3/27216_725263868295_6415550_41398068_4288609_n.jpg). Now I don't remember if you put the drain line one before or after you put the turbo together you'll have to figure it out but slide the turbo together being careful of the exhaust wheel. If you have a 90+ you CAN use all of your old lines(might not be true for a 12b), they should more or less line up so align the center housing with them (they might require a slight amount of bending but not much) and get it as far in the exhaust side as you can (you won't be able to get it in all the way by hand probably) then put the v band back on and tighten down all the way. Once you get that in, attach any lines you need to. If you need to tweak the rotation of the compressor housing, with the vband tight, it's easy to do on the car. Put a piece of something long and semi sturdy (broom stick, pipe something) and turn. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...6_725112441755_6415550_41390157_8329245_n.jpg

The bracket, if you use a T3 actuator your steps will vary, for a 13c actuator (the 15g one won't work, throw it away lol) make a bracket from an ac bracket that looks like this http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...5_719827737345_6415550_41183247_5637485_n.jpg we had to drill a new hole and it but it bolts into one of the holes the stock actuator went into. We tacked orie's to the bracket for good measure. It might be easier to set this up off the car but I did mine on the car because the turbo wasn't 100% clocked. Either way it's not too hard.

That what you need to know?
 
Hi
>>If you need to tweak the rotation of the compressor housing, with the vband tight, it's easy to do on the car. Put a piece of something long and semi sturdy (broom stick, pipe something) and turn. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8329245_n.jpg<<
this may not be such a good idea, as there is a little pin in the compressor housing keeping the core in place. but it can be easily removed after the big circular clip is taken off and the core and housing is separated.
regards, Hans
 
this may not be such a good idea, as there is a little pin in the compressor housing keeping the core in place. but it can be easily removed after the big circular clip is taken off and the core and housing is separated.
regards, Hans

If you read his post, that was the first thing he said to remove..

"To install you need to remove the pin, to get it out remove the compressor housing (it's held on with a giant snap ring, c clip what ever you want to call it). Grind or cut or some how remove the pin that keeps the housing from being rotated."
 
Eric, when you port the 6cm does it come close to the 7cm, or?

I ask because, as you know I am going with a BIG mitsu compressor on one of my projects and would hate to choke it on the turbine side.

The mitsu exhaust housing used by Hahn racecraft is 10cm2

XCV7020G0012.jpg


XCV7020G0002.jpg
 
Why in the hell did this VERY OLD post get drug up?? I don't even own the car anymore. Besides everyone already knows slapping a clocked 15g in place of the 13c is the easiest and cheapest upgrade.
 
Why in the hell did this VERY OLD post get drug up?? I don't even own the car anymore. Besides everyone already knows slapping a clocked 15g in place of the 13c is the easiest and cheapest upgrade.

That's funny! Looks like a noob was looking for insight. I didn't even notice the original posting dates. At least he did what others should do - instead of creating yet another new thread on the same old subject.
 
If you read his post, that was the first thing he said to remove..

"To install you need to remove the pin, to get it out remove the compressor housing (it's held on with a giant snap ring, c clip what ever you want to call it). Grind or cut or some how remove the pin that keeps the housing from being rotated."

actually there may be a misunderstanding, -- Your right to remove the pin on the turbo housing once the big clamp is gone, but there is another pin holding the compressor housing in position against the core.
So-- to sum it up, the core is held in position by 2 pins and both have to be rmeoved, as the core has to be in the right angle against the turbine housing and against the compressor housing.

BTW. here is another supplier for the turbine housing:
http://www.melett.com/turbo-cross-reference.php?partno=1401-404-895&Submit2=Go

Cheers, Hans
 
actually there may be a misunderstanding, -- Your right to remove the pin on the turbo housing once the big clamp is gone, but there is another pin holding the compressor housing in position against the core.
So-- to sum it up, the core is held in position by 2 pins and both have to be rmeoved, as the core has to be in the right angle against the turbine housing and against the compressor housing.

BTW. here is another supplier for the turbine housing:
http://www.melett.com/turbo-cross-reference.php?partno=1401-404-895&Submit2=Go

Cheers, Hans

Yes, Hans, but he was talking about the Compressor housing, not the exhaust housing/band clamp :-D
 
turbo balancing UK

turbo balancing UK

After trying around a few places and being turned down by all the others for various reasons I came across this company:

http://www.turbotechnics.com/

You simply post the core to them, they check it and balance it for you at the cost of around 50? -- + whatever extra work.

Melett number for the turbine housing is: 1401 - 404 - 895
 
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