cj.surr
New member
- Joined
- May 24, 2013
- Location
- Upstate NY
Started this project of building a daily/roadtrip car in January of this year. I wanted to combine the awesome practicality of a 240 with the economy of a VW TDI engine. I started with a 98 Jetta (AHU TDI) and a '90 245. I found both cars in CT, for $500 and $400 respectively. The jetta ran and drove great, was just rusty and beat up. The 245 was in incredible shape for the price, ran and drove, had brand new Nokians, and had an auto trans that was acting up. Barely any rust at all on the body, too.
20170412_184351
20170412_184401
20170111_214457
Got to work that weekend and removed the TDI engine in CT, put it in the back of the volvo and drove it 350mi back to Upstate NY where I go to school. I picked up an m47 trans setup on the way up and the auto trans only slipped badly once.
20170116_132849
20170113_155612
Trimmed and sorted the engine harness while we were having a cold spell.
20170116_100809
Yanked the B230
20170118_003004
Did the first test fits with the engine and trans clamped together. There was an obvious issue with oil pan and subframe clearance
20170120_150717
That's how much I would have to remove from the subframe to fit the oil pan with only minimal pan notching. I wasn't too happy about having to box that in.
20170119_001340
I picked up another subframe and started cutting into the oil pan instead. This would allow me to run a completely stock subframe.
20170121_215549
I cut part of the angled rear section of the pan and bent it upwards. This would make up for some of the capacity I was removing from the front. In the end, I lost only about half a quart of capacity, which I'm fine with.
20170121_231154
20170121_231216
Getting the pan as close as I safely could to the rotating assembly.
20170121_232351
Started cutting out pieces
20170122_002847
All welded up. Was interesting to weld, a few spots seemed to be impregnated with oil, and would constantly bubble up as I TIGd it.
20170127_001442
20170127_001538
20170127_001545
20170127_001559
20170127_001715
Also had to shorten the pickup to draw from a more rearward section of the pan
20170127_191250
20170212_164212
The work on the transmission adapter and starter mount would prove to be the most difficult part of the project. I machined all parts on a Bridgeport with a 2.5 axis CNC.
The starter mount blank
20170210_120252
The transmission bellhousing adapter would be made out of 3 separate blocks to save money on material and make it easier to produce.
Here is the top and passenger side bellhousing blocks being indexed on the starter mount.
20170211_153644
The placement of all of this was critical to ensure good starter tooth engagement. I set up the blocks on the engine to get the proper location and then clamped them together. I would later press dowel pins into the blocks to keep them from moving. This fixed the 3 pieces together, and the only adjustment that could affect the starter tooth engagement would be through the allowable movement within the bolt holes for securing the bellhousing adapters to the block.
20170214_193547
20170215_231647
Starter gear backlash was set to about .020? by the direction of some hotrod articles I have found.
20170211_144044
20170215_231654
Final chips taken off of the adapter pieces and cleaned up
20170217_174931
20170217_175028
20170217_175103
20170217_175601
20170217_175614
Here is the final adapter setup. I had to use an aftermarket single mass B5 A4 flywheel and pressure plate because the VW tdi flywheel has the ring gear on the transmission side. The clutch disc used was a rigid rx-7 one, because a sprung one would not clear the pressure plate fingers. At this point the author does not realize it, but his clutch selection would later bite him in the ass?.
20170218_131934
20170301_221115
20170301_224258
I made sheet aluminum covers for the empty spaces between the adapters on the top and bottom
20170301_224335
20170301_224433
Due to the thickness of the adapter, the throwout bearing would have to be spaced out. I did this by getting a second clutch fork and welding the center section of it on top of the existing fork.
20170225_204608
20170225_215353
20170225_220705
Here is the final product for the engine mounts. The driver side engine mount was definitely interesting as the original engine mount was at the bellhousing (for the fwd application). Therefore, I had to make use of the only bolt holes possible. Also, clearance was pretty tight near the lower radiator hose outlet. These mount arms would use the stock 240 rubber mounts.
Also pictured are the power steering pump brackets. I had to move the power steering pump because it interfered with the steering rack. The PS was originally on the v-belt drive but I moved it to the serpentine belt by using a ribbed A4 PS pump pulley of the same bolt pattern.
20170218_105441
20170218_105514
20170218_105530
20170218_221200
20170218_224053
20170218_224120
20170218_225236
20170412_184102
20170412_184351
20170412_184401
20170111_214457
Got to work that weekend and removed the TDI engine in CT, put it in the back of the volvo and drove it 350mi back to Upstate NY where I go to school. I picked up an m47 trans setup on the way up and the auto trans only slipped badly once.
20170116_132849
20170113_155612
Trimmed and sorted the engine harness while we were having a cold spell.
20170116_100809
Yanked the B230
20170118_003004
Did the first test fits with the engine and trans clamped together. There was an obvious issue with oil pan and subframe clearance
20170120_150717
That's how much I would have to remove from the subframe to fit the oil pan with only minimal pan notching. I wasn't too happy about having to box that in.
20170119_001340
I picked up another subframe and started cutting into the oil pan instead. This would allow me to run a completely stock subframe.
20170121_215549
I cut part of the angled rear section of the pan and bent it upwards. This would make up for some of the capacity I was removing from the front. In the end, I lost only about half a quart of capacity, which I'm fine with.
20170121_231154
20170121_231216
Getting the pan as close as I safely could to the rotating assembly.
20170121_232351
Started cutting out pieces
20170122_002847
All welded up. Was interesting to weld, a few spots seemed to be impregnated with oil, and would constantly bubble up as I TIGd it.
20170127_001442
20170127_001538
20170127_001545
20170127_001559
20170127_001715
Also had to shorten the pickup to draw from a more rearward section of the pan
20170127_191250
20170212_164212
The work on the transmission adapter and starter mount would prove to be the most difficult part of the project. I machined all parts on a Bridgeport with a 2.5 axis CNC.
The starter mount blank
20170210_120252
The transmission bellhousing adapter would be made out of 3 separate blocks to save money on material and make it easier to produce.
Here is the top and passenger side bellhousing blocks being indexed on the starter mount.
20170211_153644
The placement of all of this was critical to ensure good starter tooth engagement. I set up the blocks on the engine to get the proper location and then clamped them together. I would later press dowel pins into the blocks to keep them from moving. This fixed the 3 pieces together, and the only adjustment that could affect the starter tooth engagement would be through the allowable movement within the bolt holes for securing the bellhousing adapters to the block.
20170214_193547
20170215_231647
Starter gear backlash was set to about .020? by the direction of some hotrod articles I have found.
20170211_144044
20170215_231654
Final chips taken off of the adapter pieces and cleaned up
20170217_174931
20170217_175028
20170217_175103
20170217_175601
20170217_175614
Here is the final adapter setup. I had to use an aftermarket single mass B5 A4 flywheel and pressure plate because the VW tdi flywheel has the ring gear on the transmission side. The clutch disc used was a rigid rx-7 one, because a sprung one would not clear the pressure plate fingers. At this point the author does not realize it, but his clutch selection would later bite him in the ass?.
20170218_131934
20170301_221115
20170301_224258
I made sheet aluminum covers for the empty spaces between the adapters on the top and bottom
20170301_224335
20170301_224433
Due to the thickness of the adapter, the throwout bearing would have to be spaced out. I did this by getting a second clutch fork and welding the center section of it on top of the existing fork.
20170225_204608
20170225_215353
20170225_220705
Here is the final product for the engine mounts. The driver side engine mount was definitely interesting as the original engine mount was at the bellhousing (for the fwd application). Therefore, I had to make use of the only bolt holes possible. Also, clearance was pretty tight near the lower radiator hose outlet. These mount arms would use the stock 240 rubber mounts.
Also pictured are the power steering pump brackets. I had to move the power steering pump because it interfered with the steering rack. The PS was originally on the v-belt drive but I moved it to the serpentine belt by using a ribbed A4 PS pump pulley of the same bolt pattern.
20170218_105441
20170218_105514
20170218_105530
20170218_221200
20170218_224053
20170218_224120
20170218_225236
20170412_184102