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custome drive shaft for t5 trans swap

I am rocking the two piece. As towerymt and other have said. Call the shop ask what measurement they need and enjoy. I took mine to driveline specialists in the east bay here I think it was around 150. No vibrations but when I drop the clutch the Ujoint at the transmission hits the transmission tunnel.
 
I received no such warnings when I had the M47 driveshaft shortened and adapted to suit the T5 in my 240. Has worked fine in my car.

http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/128569286.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/128569468.jpg

I supplied an M47 driveshaft and a measurement. I paid for a new weld yoke, new slip yoke, and new front u-joint. I supplied a new center support bearing and they removed the old and pressed on the new. Shortened and balanced. $265 out the door. I could have saved money sourcing the pars elsewhere, but it still wasn't bad at all.

Trust me - I was not pleased when presented with a brand new drive shaft complete with new style centre bearing. He just sort of shrugged and said that's what it took - new from front to back only used the rear axle flange. I also had the bonded tube shaft not the M47 - and they didn't have the parts to make that work (some nonsense about tube size differences etc). The centre bearing can now handle a thrust load.

That's why I wasn't advocating doing this. The shop basically ripped me off and I was trying to caution the OP that all the singing about "it's cheap" and "don't worry about it it only cost me $150" might also end up like me with a drive shaft that cost almost as much as I paid for the car originally. There are online options (not really for Canadians - shipping plus crap exchange rate sort of kills that right now) and you could buy the adapter from Josh or just make sure your DL shop isn't going to bend you over...that is all.
 
If you were somehow able to choose which element of the drivetrain failed, I'd expect an axle shaft to produce the least collateral damage. An overpowered clutch would be even better, but harder to change out. (Unless the flywheel fails, that's bad)

Of course, you could spec everything to an appropriate, approximately equal level of strength, with a suitable safety factor, and not expect anything to break.
 
If you were somehow able to choose which element of the drivetrain failed, I'd expect an axle shaft to produce the least collateral damage. An overpowered clutch would be even better, but harder to change out. (Unless the flywheel fails, that's bad)

Of course, you could spec everything to an appropriate, approximately equal level of strength, with a suitable safety factor, and not expect anything to break.

There is no perfect answer, as far as I can see. I guess one could always use a driveshaft hoop as well. Me, I just don't beat on that stuff very hard, so I was taking a pointer from my 4 wheeling experience.:)
 
Trust me - I was not pleased when presented with a brand new drive shaft complete with new style centre bearing. He just sort of shrugged and said that's what it took - new from front to back only used the rear axle flange. I also had the bonded tube shaft not the M47 - and they didn't have the parts to make that work (some nonsense about tube size differences etc). The centre bearing can now handle a thrust load.

That's why I wasn't advocating doing this. The shop basically ripped me off and I was trying to caution the OP that all the singing about "it's cheap" and "don't worry about it it only cost me $150" might also end up like me with a drive shaft that cost almost as much as I paid for the car originally. There are online options (not really for Canadians - shipping plus crap exchange rate sort of kills that right now) and you could buy the adapter from Josh or just make sure your DL shop isn't going to bend you over...that is all.
That stinks.

I'm always a bit nervous about getting work done like this because sometimes I feel like both sides may not be 100% clear about what is the expected outcome. I definitely wouldn't have paid $700. I'd have walked away, but in my case I was only giving them a stock driveshaft and a center bearing, so not a lot of money invested up front.

In my case, I knew the shop i was going to had done similar work before, adapting a 740 2pc for T5, so I was fairly confident it would work out.

The other T5 swap I've done was for our lemons car. I tried to buy a stock 5.0 fox Mustang shaft from a yard that pulls the parts for the customer. It was available online, called, paid ($75), and went to pick it up a few days later. I walk in the office and there's an aluminum driveshaft sitting on the floor. Hmm, that's not going to work. It's gotta be at least 3.25", probably 3.5", no way it clears in a 240. Thought about buying it anyway to resell, but managed to stay focused on what I needed, and rejected this part since it wouldn't fit the 240. They had no other cars in stock that might have the right driveshaft, so they refunded my $75.

BUT...they have a row of shelves outside one of their buildings and it's lined with driveshafts. Some marked, some not. 1pc, 2pc, even 3pc. I borrowed a tape measure, measured the aluminum mustang shaft for length and flange bolt spacing, and headed out in search of a match. It took a little while, but I finally spotted one that looked right. Measured out to be correct. And on top of that, it was marked "86 Capri". That's a fox chassis...excellent. I got them to knock the price down to $50 since I had to hunt and find it myself, and I left a happy customer with the part I needed. It's been working great in the lemons car, paired with a prototype steel driveshaft adapter I got from josh for next to nothing because it wasn't even welded together yet. Cheapest T5 swap ever in that car.

By the way, the dampener needs to be cut off like so:

143268971.jpg
 
Buy the adapter. My current driveshaft has an adapter for a cv joint and is holding way more power than your looking to make. Josh makes good stuff, so nothing to worry about

I'd be more worried about the 27 spline output shaft more than anything, but the driveshaft also sees less tq than the wheels do since its pre ring and pinion
 
These shafts look like the kind of thing you set up between centers to weld.

That's halfway towards getting a robot to do the job!
 
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