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Any point in tuning b230f n/a?

larsjorgen

New member
Joined
Mar 8, 2015
Been planning for a long time what I'm gonna do to my b230e, and ended up wanting to do a n/a tuning which would have taken it to ~200 hp.

But then it turns out, I don't have a b230e, I have a b230f. I even have a list with the parts I was going to order, but now I'm not sure what to do.

Is the f useful for anything all all except for being replaced with another engine?
 
What's the difference then? Where did the extra ~20 hp go between the two engines?

Well.. Extractor, 531, porting, bigger valves, cam, exhaust.. And I'll probably do something to the injection. Not sure what all of these things are called in English though, but you probably get the point.
 
Don't the E engines all have a different cam? I know the B23E had a K cam, had one of those in my brother's '79 242 for a while, it was almost as much fun as a turbo.
 
The E could have the A, V or K cam (H only in B23) The F has the M or W cam

The lower power of the B230F is down to cam and cat and a little from the intake manifold
 
Shave the head like 1.5mm, clean up the ports, H-cam, extractors, e-fan and lose the cat. You should be able to get like 150 flywheel horsepower at least. The VOC guys are pushing up to 170-180hp out of B230F's on standard cast manifolds, H-cam, no headwork and stock compression...

Just changing the super lame M-cam for a V, H or even A will make a noticable difference. It drives more like a car, and less like a tractor.
 
Dual Webers.
Huge airbox!!!!!
Large inlet tract bringing in fresh air from the front of the car.
High(er) compression.
Nice cam.
 
Bah, maybe I'm better off just replacing my f with a fk or something. I live in Norway so I can just drive to Sweden and get decent one for about $5-600. :roll: And then I can do some simple tuning on that one and be pretty dang close to 200 hp..
 
I've heard good things about the Folkrace regrind cams and header (actually having used and driven cars with both).

There is a lot to be said about NA power and and engine bay without all the extra stuff associated with turbo. A stock FK with the boost turned up is nice but I don't like the feeling of less and less torque the closer you get to redline.

I agree on shaved head, reground cam, extractor/header.
 
I meant on F/E engine.

For anything with a power goal under 300-ish turbo hp i would stick with stock exhaust mainfold. The FK is severely limited by the stock turbo.
 
Side conversation: I've heard the term "regrind" over the years. But how does grinding a "small" cam give you a "big" (more lift / duration) cam? I know it works, I just can't see how.
 
Side conversation: I've heard the term "regrind" over the years. But how does grinding a "small" cam give you a "big" (more lift / duration) cam? I know it works, I just can't see how.

Regrind the base circle to a smaller diameter without touching the cam love, put in appropriately dimensioned valve buckets and/or shims, etc. to accommodate the change, end up with greater valve lift.
 
I did a basic NA build on my auto x car. B230f, shaved .065" off the head, .028 head gasket, ported head and manifolds, CVI header, 2.5" exhaust, RSI na cam, running on lh 2.2. haven't dyno'd it, but I can tell you it is an absolute blast to drive
 
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