• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

High Humidity >>> Drivability Issues (SOLVED)

Dicktater said:
That's kinda what air conditioning does Mr. collage student, but I turn my heat on cause I got money to burn....:-P
Click to expand...

Figured it was worth asking. Might be too cold for the thermostat to kick on the ac unit.

Btw you forget I’m just studying women’s rights so I don’t understand how all that physics stuff works. Also wouldn’t turning the heat on not reduce the humidity much?
 
Maybe the wiring/terminals under the car at the fuel pump. Could be fuses or grounds. Clean stuff up and apply dielectric grease.
 
I don't follow, but sure why not!? I use it on certain airbag recalls on the connectors per the directions. It can only help. It will also help keep things water tight. I think there was a Volvo bulletin back in the day instructing techs to smear it on the ECU connector on a 740. Moisture and vibration causes fretting on terminals.

I would pull the ignition coil wires and lightly clean the terminals. Do same with all the fuses. Possibly the fuel pump wiring too.


Come to think of it, spark plug wires are also suspect. My 1990 240 wouldn't start/misfires in high humidity in the mornings and plug wires were shorting. Spray baking soda water on them at night and inspect for arcing.
 
ZVOLV said:
I don't follow, but sure why not!? I use it on certain airbag recalls on the connectors per the directions. It can only help. It will also help keep things water tight. I think there was a Volvo bulletin back in the day instructing techs to smear it on the ECU connector on a 740. Moisture and vibration causes fretting on terminals.

I would pull the ignition coil wires and lightly clean the terminals. Do same with all the fuses. Possibly the fuel pump wiring too.


Come to think of it, spark plug wires are also suspect. My 1990 240 wouldn't start/misfires in high humidity in the mornings and plug wires were shorting. Spray baking soda water on them at night and inspect for arcing.
Click to expand...

I inspected in the dark last night (without spray) and couldn?t see any arcing. Gave everything the good old wiggle test but no change. Swapped out a spare cap and rotor that I have but no change. Wiggle o2 sensor wiring and no change. Wiggled ECT, IAC, TPS etc no change. The o2 heater wires on the firewall were kinda crusty so I used a flat blade to clean them up. No change. And as stated above I?ve swapped wires with a used set (I know, I conclusive) and the results are the exact same. I also pulled ignition coil wires and reseated all spare connectors. Didn?t clean them just reseated them.

Maybe I will spin some fuses today
 
It rained last night a lot, but temps got low. 26F this morning and they say 90% humidity but I doubt it with how cold it is. Anyway, car started and ran fine today albeit the typical B cam cold idle for 30 seconds. No bogging down.

Now we wait to see if the 7 gives us trouble.

EDIT: https://www.reddit.com/r/askscience/comments/1wfjxl/humidity_below_waters_freezing_point/

Alright well I don't really get this too much but it definitely *feels* less humid than the torrential downpours we've been having.
 
Issues came back after class. At idle, when it’s running like crap, the exhaust reaks of fuel. That leads me to believe it’s receiving sufficient fuel pressure, but not sufficient ignition. Maybe I’ll swap coils or have a look at the powerstage.
 
You need to figure out if it's a no spark or no fuel. Powerstage could be getting wet. Or is this Regina?
 
ZVOLV said:
You need to figure out if it's a no spark or no fuel. Powerstage could be getting wet. Or is this Regina?
Click to expand...

Lh2.4. We?re just both so ****ing busy with school and stuff otherwise it wouldn?t be a big deal. I will see if it?s lack of spark or fuel later on. I?m guessing spark but we?ll see.
 
Powerstage was wet. Dried it and cleaned all the white **** off with a wire wheel. Cleaned the back surface where it mounts to the fender. Cleaned pretty much everything.

Still no change.

Edit: I understand that thermal paste is important in heat transfer, but i didn’t know if there was a grounding issue or something. I’ll try to get some thermal paste for the powerstage soon.
 
Last edited:
What kind of shape is your wiring harness in? Even the late non-biodegradable ones can have issues this late in the game.

Have you gone through the LH2.4 green book trouble shooting steps? It only takes about an hour or so to check everything fuel and ignition.
 
Lando said:
What kind of shape is your wiring harness in? Even the late non-biodegradable ones can have issues this late in the game.

Have you gone through the LH2.4 green book trouble shooting steps? It only takes about an hour or so to check everything fuel and ignition.
Click to expand...

Wiring harness appears to be perfect everywhere. Haven't ran through all those steps yet though.

Here is a video of how it acts on cold starts. Once it's warmed up it seems fine. I beat the hell out of it burning through second gear. Pulls all the way to limiter when warm:e-shrug:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3UCsPObpESo" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top