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YASVT (Yet Another Sixteen Valve Turbo) - now 16V Whiteblock (LS)

I really did think long and hard about another EFR for it - the one I have for the 16V is of course too small, but an 8374 would probably work. But they're $2500. I decided to toss a slightly nicer $500 chineisium turbo on it - a dual ball bearing version of the same T76.

And of course, I'll just end up getting the EFR later on when this one blows up...
 
I really did think long and hard about another EFR for it - the one I have for the 16V is of course too small, but an 8374 would probably work. But they're $2500. I decided to toss a slightly nicer $500 chineisium turbo on it - a dual ball bearing version of the same T76.

And of course, I'll just end up getting the EFR later on when this one blows up...

I've heard good things about people buying a chineisium turbo putting it together using a genuine Garrett rebuild kit and getting it balanced.
 
This time around I'm getting a turbo that will slide right in where the current one is - with no rework of the DP or intercooler piping needed.

Just being lazy. Annd cheap.

That always works out well...
 
I've heard good things about people buying a chineisium turbo putting it together using a genuine Garrett rebuild kit and getting it balanced.

No such thing for ball bearing turbos.

This time around I'm getting a turbo that will slide right in where the current one is - with no rework of the DP or intercooler piping needed.

Just being lazy. Annd cheap.

That always works out well...

You may want to look at VSracing.
 
This time around I'm getting a turbo that will slide right in where the current one is - with no rework of the DP or intercooler piping needed.

Just being lazy. Annd cheap.

That always works out well...

you can get one of the fancy billet wheel S372SXE for under $900 and have an awesome turbo which will last....
 
New slightly better cheap dual ball bearing turbo is in. Still a T76 .96AR, but a Q-trim instead of a P-trim.

Yeah, silly fun and fast.
 
Went to start it yesterday and it cranked, no attempt to fire. Then I noticed the fuel pumps (and oil scavenge pump) weren't priming. Turned on the laptop to see, and the MS isn't powering up either.

Well... probably something pretty basic. I just didn't feel like messing with it yesterday. Or today, so far. I guess it's either the non-switched 12V (a new wire run straight to one of the late 93 fuses on the battery terminal), or the switched 12V which is still going through the original Volvo dual relay - that original white relay. Heh, I wonder which one it is.
 
Not great news, really. Well, not terrible news either. I thought I was being extra diligent in soldering all of the harness connections hooking the new pre-made GoldBox engine harness to the car. And because it was working SO FREAKING GREAT I was using some acid flux solder I had laying around. BEAUTIFUL solder joints, so wet and juicy and clean and flowed. Then I'd slide shrink wrap over it and OMG SO NEAT AND TIDY!!!


Turns out I should probably have read up about using acid flux on automotive wiring. Apparently it can corrode copper over time. Especially if it gets hot and sucks up inside the wiring insulation, or is held in against the wiring by shrink wrap. What I found yesterday were several failed solder joints where the copper wiring near the solder joints had turned into a gray crumbly powder. Sometimes extending an inch or so into the insulation on either side.

On the plus side, there really aren't a HUGE number of solder joints I need to cut out and replace, I'd be a bit more depressed if I'd built the whole engine harness and had them EVERYWHERE. There's just maybe 20 or so of them in the passenger footwell.
 
Hmmm...

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Snip out the existing corroding solder joint, stip, slide this on, a little heat gun action, JOB DONE!
 
My go-to are non-insulated butt connectors (using a staking tool to crimp) and adhesive lined heat shrink. Never any failures, and 2-3 sizes of connectors will cover 26ga-12ga.
 
Hmmm...

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7Wh5gM8GM70" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Snip out the existing corroding solder joint, stip, slide this on, a little heat gun action, JOB DONE!

I do like those things and they are a wonder but please don't overpay for them! Domestic prices are horrendous and they're all imported from China anyway...

Just go straight to the source, order 4x more than you need for the same price and give surplus to your buddies at the next grill party or Christmas.

https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesal...S_20200608093956&SearchText=heatshrink+solder
 
My go-to are non-insulated butt connectors (using a staking tool to crimp) and adhesive lined heat shrink. Never any failures, and 2-3 sizes of connectors will cover 26ga-12ga.

this. I use these types of connectors now almost exclusively, I use ratchet crimpers to crimp em down nice and tight.
 
I've moved to the non-insulated butt connectors and adhesive lined shrink tubed as well. The OEM GM connections are done this way, except they also solder the wires.
 
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