• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

R32rennsport's Amazon Thread

My first Amazon was done in POR15, the stuff is amazing. I only owned the car for a few years but POR15 + Dynamat was amazing. It was quiet, especially when it comes to rocks being kicked up onto the undercarriage.

Thanks for the feedback, any advice on laying the stuff down? I hear it's pretty nasty and the surface has to be prepped just right for it to take.
 
Thanks for the feedback, any advice on laying the stuff down? I hear it's pretty nasty and the surface has to be prepped just right for it to take.

Yeah, it's super messy. It stinks and probably costs you brain cells as you apply it.

They sell a kit, where you etch the metal after cleaning it, then apply the POR15. That's what I did. I bothered me to have a liquid on my floor boards without a clean way out, so I actually drilled two small drain holes into the floors and used rubber plugs after the POPR15 had cured.
 
Haven't had much to update until the last few days, been holding out on painting projects with all the moisture we've been having lately. Glad to say I made a huge dent over the past few days. I'll finish the top coat on the floor pans on the next sunny day but other then that I can finally say this car should start going back together pretty quickly. I was shooting for Davis this year but I know that's unrealistic at this point, 2020 will be my year!

Decided against POR 15 after reading many reviews and first hand experiences, the stuff is too expensive and seems very temperamental unless done properly. Went with my good old stand by of Rustoleum products. Everything is getting covered in new modern tar mats and the underside is getting fresh undercoat so I'm pretty confident this should hold up for quite a few years. Next time around the car will be getting full floor halves anyhow.










 
I lucked out and got to put in a few hours out in workshop on Sunday which happened to be unusually warm, perfect day for painting! Floors got three coats of gloss black enamel and I coated the underside of the new gas tank in four layers; primer, enamel, truck bed liner and then rubber undercoat. Everything came out great and was dry to the touch within an hour. Should be able to start laying down sound/heat mat in the next week. Excited to start assembly and get this on the road!

Does anyone have thoughts on adding a small vent tube to the filler neck of the gas tank? I know all my old VW's have them and it certainly would help on warmer days with a full tank. I know my cap seal struggles to contain everything in those conditions by the evidence of dried fuel on the bumper. I'd rather do it now with the tank out and empty then after the fact.



 
A vent would definitely be a good idea if you can work one in. The from my experience with wagons they seem to have the burp problem of old cars, where you fill up and as the tank gets to about 75% it burps and pukes a bunch of fuel out the filler, or in my case, it spits the filler out on the ground.
 
A vent would definitely be a good idea if you can work one in. The from my experience with wagons they seem to have the burp problem of old cars, where you fill up and as the tank gets to about 75% it burps and pukes a bunch of fuel out the filler, or in my case, it spits the filler out on the ground.

Mine does this as well if I try and fill it all the way up the neck to the cap. I've just gotten to the point where I shove it in there and when the pump kicks off the first time I just leave it off.

The wagons have a vent at the neck as well. It's maybe 2" down from the cap on the top side of the neck. I'm assuming they went this direction because the neck itself is almost the exact same level as the fuel in the tank. I'm running a locking 122 fuel cap and it shoots fuel out of the lock on right hand turns. That said mine only leaks from the cap, the vent hose loops up into the quarter panel about 24", and I never get a leak from there.
 
Weird, mine had no vent and would burp at 7.5-8 gallons, and on 3-4 occasions if I wasn’t the one to set the pump it would spit the pump out.
 
What about like a rollover valve? I bought one but I had already put the tank and pump back in and didn’t want to remove it again to cut another hole. I intended to find a cap seal that would seal completely since I wouldn’t need it to vent anymore.
 
Moving full steam ahead. Gas tank is in and plumbed. Though I didn't document it here I added a barbed breather nipple a few inches down from the the filler that exits in between the small rear bulkhead where the filler protrudes through. I ran the breather hose to the left rear corner where it exits through a grommet next to the spare tire well away from anything hot.

I had this idea for a flip top filler for ages and had one in my parts stash from over a decade ago from a prior career at a British restoration shop. As it happens the threaded ring was a press on fit to the filler neck and I think it's exactly how I envisioned it. It's fuller reversible if need be. I have a few issues with the replacement gas tank from VP Autoparts which are minor but annoying nonetheless. The first being that all the holes are about 1/8 to 1/4 inch off from the originals which necessitated drilling new holes. Secondly, I recall the original tank having a baffle at the base of the filler neck to prevent splash back up the neck which the replacement does not have. Also, had to chase all the threads for the sending unit as the screws were not happily threading in. The grey is because the paint on the tank was clearly temporary for shipping purposes and easily scratch off so I thought a few more coats wouldn't hurt and I had the grey left over from the engine bay. Next I'll be putting the trunk lid back on after addressing some surface rust where the seal sits and adding upholstery then on to plumbing the heater box and finishing the dash so I can start on the interior and install the engine/trans.




 
That filler cap looks good! I'd guesstimate the vent in my wagon is in a similar location in the filler neck, just in the top side.
 
My only concern with the breather is the lack of baffle at the base of the neck causing overflow run out when it sloshes back. I added a loop in the breather line to hopefully reduce flow but we shall see. I could always run a small container at the termination of the hose for a while to get a feel for how much gas is coming out and then readdress the system accordingly.
 
I've been bogged down with the acquisition of the '68 Combi, repairs to my Golf (actually just converting more things back to street use) and rampant sickness in my household. Hoping to make some big progress this weekend! Stay tuned!

 
Could I get this image in its original format? Email is vol242vo@gmail.com

Absolutely love it.

9QrcxZ.jpg
 
Had some fun bending up brakelines last night. I opted for my own routing as I've never thought the factory routing was clean or well thought out. I did the front to rear line after taking these pictures as well, got a little dizzy after being on the creeper for too long and called it a night.



 
Looks clean, I agree that the factory routes were a little odd. And with changes related to different model years, it can get messy.

You may want to shield the line on the passenger side, the exhaust can get pretty hot.
 
Back
Top