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Old 12-04-2017, 05:17 AM   #1
Bosozoku_Volvo's Avatar
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Vantuckey
Post The New New 240 whiteblock swap thread.

So i noticed that the "all you need to know" whiteblock swap threads give you very little information on how to actually get the motor in your car and lined up, and since i got myself a killer deal on some parts, i figured id try to make the real end-all, be-all thread for this.

that, and im seeing a lot of questions being posted on the facebook lately, and Ive got some of those answers. this is my first write up, and it will definitely be a work in progress as i find more and more out.

Im also borrowing some bits from the other threads. Im not saying they arent helpful, i just wanna expand them as much as i can. since image share websites wanna be terrible right now, ill start with posting the link to the online gallery of what im doing. anything i post in the sections below should have at least one picture, and some of them have descriptions

Im using a 98 t5 block for my build. the ideal bit is to go for an RN block, but seeing as this is what i have, this is where ill start. Im sure some things on the RN would actually make this swap much easier, and i figure ill end up with one when the N block nukes

Im using the obvious got-to foxbody t5 WC transmission. for us US guys, theyre the easiest bet to get your hands on, as far as swap bits and rebuilt kits/aftermarket support for them.
UPDATE: deeworks has operational adapter kits for the cd009 trans from rwd nissan cars, yoshifab is sourcing clutches, and since deeworks' adapter is calling for a hydraulic pedal, the boys over at STS have medal a hydro clutch pedal for 2xx cars! that should be a bit nicer, gear at your own risk!!

This section includes clutch, and so in my case, ive gotten a custom clutch sourced from southland clutch in san diego. i can source the disc for you only, sadly. if you have a good spare used clutch, you can get the pressure plate rebuilt like i did, so you arent paying for a whole clutch kit for a t5 or an 850 R (which isnt that bad, honestly. It would definitely be easier)
The pilot bearing im using is actually an Oillite bushing for a 5.0/t5 combo. i had a local machine shop shave it down for me, and after a few attempts, the 15mm bushing was shaved down to 32.02mm circumference for the big hole, a stepdown was cut for 20.85mm, and the biggest cut is only 6.32mm down the bushing before the step down. refer to the pic hosting link posted above
I havent ironed out the throwout setup just yet, but i think a stock 240 throwout should work fine for this.
UPDATE: my pilot needed to be shaved down tremendously to get the depth to clear the foxbody input shaft. i also had to drill the back of the crank out with a pretty large drill bit (its not on me or id post the size for you, didnt take very long). i also had to cut the input shaft tube on the tranny by half an inch or so, as i contacted the clutch disk, which sucked but wasnt that bad.

if youre doing this for a 740 or something hydraulic, i havent had a need to touch on that yet, but id assume you could adapt an 850 external slave setup pretty easily, or even and internal one.


this was a big issue with me trying to get figured out. most threads just showed the motor already in the car and something like "yeah the block has bolt holes for it", one picking out 850 engines for having 0 issues for this. WRONG

So im using 960 upper mounts on the block side. driver side had 3 holes that lined up perfectly, but i had to notch it out for the pcv system. you can see it in the pictures. i figure 3 out of 4 bolts should be more than fine. ------------- (im not using this as the vehicle im swaping into changed, linked build thread will show up eventually)

the passenger side upper 960 mount only had 1 on my engine, i think. i had to drill and tap some holes (still only using 3 bolts total) and ended up bridging a redblock accessory tensioner piece. worked pretty well, but i did have to clearance the mount for one bolt, as seen in the pictures.


ive seen the other threads showing the old coolant lines adapted between 960 and t5 to keep turbo feeds good while giving you a forward facing lower radiator hose port. what i found was easiest for my lack of skill in welding, was to get the t5 stuff welded to the 960 engines coolant line, and then cut the backside off of it for the turbo drain. i think that piping is galvanized, and i couldnt keep out the water leaks under pressure testing. a small welded ring and some rubber coolant hose is gonna be my choice here. it SHOULD give you the ability to keep your heater core while having flexibilty to play with locations for stuff. the pipe fiting bits where from acehardware, and i used 5/8ths coolant hose to make up the distances.

as for the turbo, coolant lines for that are easy to make for yourself. still almost perfectly lines up there. as for the oil feed and drain, i grabbed a kinugawa flexible 4an oil feed, and will be doing the nissan style of using rubber hose to drain it. should be more than effectivem especially since you gotta flip and reclock your turbo.


exhaust maniufold can stay the same, pull some studs and flip them around to make the turbo mount happy, and i believe you need to shave the heat shield bits off.

intake is an RN manifold with a 3inch NA 850 throttle on it. you may have to make a throttle cable from some bike cable, and i advise having someone engineer you an adapter plate for it. i tried drilling first, and now mines welded on.
UPDATE: deeworks makes an adapter for this exact setup, with 90* movements so you can clock it where you need it. sadly, my project wont be using the tester i bought, but i got to check fitment and clearance, and boy is it absolutely perfect.

this is one of my hold ups for now. using the RN intake manifold makes the N block PS pump contact reservoir to intake manifold. i tried shaving some bits, bit no luck. im trying to figure out a way to use a remote reservoir for it, will update as i find out.

i do know that you cant use the PS pump from a later p80 (99 plus) due to pulley offset. if you can kick the pulley 2-3mm forward, you probably could. its really close.

youll also def need to make you own PS lines. theyre easily done with some proper parts sourcing. my 84 GLT turbo has a custom line i made for the 740 style accessory location setup i have. if you cut off the industrial press clamps, the metal lines are barbed. your local NAPA has 3k psi rated hydraulic line that works super well, and full metal hose clamps (took me each fitting) or getting another industrial type clamp put on finishes it off.


in my build, ill being using stock m4.4
its easy to play with and tune, costs very little, and makes the COP transition quite nice.
UPDATE: I have my harness cut down and anything useless removed. i have not been able to test due to not finishing the project yet, but ill have a list of pins i usede and didnt, ones i re-purposed in the tune for wideband lambda-sond and COP.

thats what i have for now. ill be adding more as i get there, expanding, the works. pictures with anything, feel free to PM me for any info i might have missed so far, or clutch souring bits to make it a little nicer on yourself!

EDIT: heres the first stack of pictures from way back when. I realize i didnt do a very good job of making the, public, and ive been wildly busy witha bunch of projects all dawning on me at once. ill come back and locate them as needed into the correct sections a little later down the road. sorry for the crazy delays!!!
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ill add a newer set with the swapee vehicle. its not quite a volvo, and i would have had it running for you all who went to davis this year. maybe next year

Last edited by Bosozoku_Volvo; 06-01-2018 at 02:05 AM.. Reason: hoboy.
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