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The (build) story of a Greek (hopefully fast) 240 brick

Yes indeed Greece has a very nice climate which on winter is rarely below 10*C and on the peak of summer around 35*C. Of course the maximum can get up to 43*C but this is not very often and especially in cities.

First of all i bored the B21 @ 93,5 mm. But anyway, the 531 head had no difference in terms of the length of the of the combustion chamber compared to the 160 (the old one). It was wider /different shape but not longer. I had read someone's thread who had the problem you are asking about, but the chambers must have been opened up.

The adaptors are a bit shorter than the injectors themselves, when the o-rings are pressed to seal. You can actually adjust how deep in the adaptors the injectors sit, as far as i remember i had placed them 4mm after the end of the adaptor. So their spray pattern is not at all affected ! I designed the adaptors in such a way that the tip of a greentop and the tip of the K-jet injector, would be exactly at the same position on the intake manifold.

As far as the heavier flywheel, i can not tell the actual difference, since it was installed on a totally different engine (different internals), with different gearbox, and different displacement / CR. However i can say for sure that before i made the turbo plumbing i operated the car in N/A mode, and felt very smooth. Did not have to even change gears for uphills. And of course 7,5:1 -> 9,1:1 which is ... the best thing, like a N/A engine, which works with a turbo !! Now the engine has enough power to rotate this heavy flywheel so easily, that you would forget it is there :)

I am not sure what you are telling me about TDC, but i feel that you mean it should be on the left of the pic not where it is marked .. On the mark of you see there is a 0 and on the pressure plate also a 0. If i remember correctly i had the pistons checked when i took the pic. Not sure though, maybe you are right, it has been a while since i did it.
 
Keep in mind Zach, he's not running any form of stock EMS, so he can easily adjust the trigger angle to suit any flywheel position he runs. For example, in MS, the trigger angle is around 87* or something like that. Ohh the advantages of a programmable EMS. :)
 
Thanks for answering! Car looks great and looks like a lot of fun. "All my money is gone and I own an old Volvo!" So I guess you didn't have to worry about making a rush to the ATM to pull out all your cash like many other greeks did?



Keep in mind Zach, he's not running any form of stock EMS, so he can easily adjust the trigger angle to suit any flywheel position he runs. For example, in MS, the trigger angle is around 87* or something like that. Ohh the advantages of a programmable EMS. :)


Oh ok. Forgot about that! Makes sense now. I was confused because the car appeared to be running somehow with the flywheel oriented "wrong". I have read plenty of threads when a kid has to end up dropping the tranny again since he put the wheel on wrong. I have also learned my lesson about making sure the torque convertor is on the input shaft ALL THE WAY. Three clicks! Otherwise, you will bend the flexplate if you try to force the gearbox in place. A "coworker" and I almost did it the other day. We also didn't notice the replacement 2.8L Chevy V6 engine had a pilot bushing we overlooked. That caused the nub on the convertor NOT to go in. He was blasting the bellhousing bolts with a 1/2" drive impact and luckily I got him to stop before anything was damaged. Sidestory over....ha
 
Good reading the story, nice seeing the car come together. I like what you had to say about the forum. There is a wealth of info on this forum if you can get past the BS that goes on here and deal with the people that rather chit chat in the off topic then answer car questions. Its a great resource, especially for those of us who do not live in the most populated 240 area's.
 
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Good reading the story, nice seeing the cart come together. I like what you had to say about the forum, if you can get past the BS that goes on on here and deal with the people that rather chit chat in the off topic then answer car questions then there is a wealth of info that can help those of us who don't live in the most populated 240 area's!

Hey where did Off-Topic go??? J/k I know where it went. I told it to, KICK ROCKS! a long time ago and have been self-banned. Ok, now get back on topic!!!!
 
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@ZVOLV: Nope, no need of any ATMs ... my money IS my old brick :)

@Old Iron: Exactly, these kind of forums are a treasure for some of us, and we are lucky that people keep on maintaining this knowledge !
 
Very nice. May I ask what driveshaft you are using with the M90? Is it the standard M46 shaft with an E34 M5 guibo?
 
Well, it is not the M46 since it had different mounting way and was a bit thinner. It is the actual (solid) M90 driveshaft (3 point mount), but a bit shortened (and balanced) since it was long for my build. I think there are some different 3 mount point driveshaft lengths, but i only could find one of them. Should be a thread around .. but i can not find the link.

Also on the rear that mounts to the other piece of the driveshaft it is the one with the thick connecting moving part that leads to a u-joint (not sure how it is called in English), while the rear driveshaft has an inner and outer piece that have some kind of rubber suspension between them. The middle support rubber is the one that is thick, i think 2 inches not the 1,25 (if i remember the numbers correctly).
 
Mike, the aluminum parts were just polished (on heavy duty pro brush) while the parts that stick to a magnet were nickel or iridium (gold) plated.
 
Oh, yes forgot about it. I was talking about the pulleys, covers etc. The intake was painted with a silver spray, that is for cars and is supposed to withstand heat.
 
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Alter timing since i keep on struggling with HUGE exhaust temps even at 30 degrees retard on full load (no matter what turbo pressure and at 35* it knocks). It keeps reaching 1100*C easily, so i thought of changing the timing so that i have a bit more opened the exhaust valve at balance (TDC). I may loose some of the low end power, but i really don't like seeing the turbo/manifold glow white ! No idea what else it could be. Idling i have 550-600*C, and when the gas is on the floor i have seen up to 1150*C. AFRs are at 11 on full load, 100 octane fuel is used, i have stretched retard at the limit, and i have "burnt" two 980*C AEM EGT gauges ...

Sounds like you are too rich and have burning fuel existing the motor. shoot for a AFR of 12 or so.
 
Awesome build! Can't wait for dyno numbers as there are a LOT of similarities between what you have done and the project I'm working on.

One question though, do you have more detailed pictures of your intercooler setup? I've got an evo 9 core and it seems like I'm going in a completely different direction piping wise, lol.
 
I am glad that TB projects are keep going on !! I hope all the best for yours as well !! Hopefully i will solve my high EGT problem soon so will have some dyno numbers. For now i have changed to a K13 Turbo 114* ENEM cam, to see if it does any good, and next step is to make a new exhaust manifold if i still have high temps.

So, i tried to find some IC piping pics, i did find some, but i uploaded more stuff so that you can see more details. The turbo-to-intercooler part is clearly shown in many pictures that i uploaded for you. You will see it in many angles.

The intercooler-to-intake though can be seen also but not on its whole length but you will get a good idea. It goes under the battery where there is a silicone connector (not visible) and then it bends upwards in a nice low angle bend to the intake.

Note the welded pipes on the intercooler also that helped to minimize the amount of silicone hoses.

Hope it helps :)

LINK
 
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