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My first Volvo 90 745t

Another weekend, more time to mess with the car. I grabbed some cans of krylon satin black rattle paint from wally world for my bumpers. Also grabbed some rustoleum grill paint, intended for my turbo housing...but I found out I got the wrong stuff. So that'll be used on my nissens endtanks and under the hood trim peices instead.

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I was kinda nervous about the rattle can paint, but I've seen good turnouts from others, so i cleaned both bumpers very well with car wash soap, and then degreaser. I used less than 2 big cans on both bumpers. I think they turned out well.

I went ahead and did the grill also.

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It seems that a PO painted the bumper before...and left overspray from poorly taped areas. Ill try to touch it up with some mineral spirits soon.

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I have been porting out my straight housing after work for the last week and am almost done. Its substantially larger where the turbo meets the manifold. Also ill finish opening up where the dp bolts to, as im hoping to get a vband welded on. I touched the wastegate hole some, but not much. Imma try to open it a hair more for good measure.

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Junkyard trip this morning, found another NA 940...but this was a wagon, with third row seating! And in the color I will switch my interior to soon enough! Cracked Leather sucks.

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As the weather is getting hotter, I've been less and less inclined to mess with the car.
As for now I say, small changes that would be necessary are the only things to be done until the heat calms down.

Oil change later today, probably a wash too.

I also got these a couple weeks ago...

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I took my time drilling the holes for everything..but its finally done!

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I just went to the hardware store down the road, found "spacers" (in not really sure what they are, but they work as spacers) about 15 mm in length, bolts to go thru the spacers and into the coupling nuts I had previously installed onto my valve cover studs. Also some bolts and nuts to attach the coil pack to the plate.

It is VERY close to touching the valve cover where the "cheeks" poke thru from the coil. But they'll never move, so it should be good to go. (Ill end up redoing the way the spark plug wires run...messy messy)

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Finally get to put the engine damper back on! Pulled something in my shoulder doing so...that shock is stiff!

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So, from now until it cools off outside its going to be parts hoarding. Particularly intercooler hoses for the mid tank IC, radiator hoses, temp switches for the electric fan, vband welded onto my straight flange. 3 in exhaust coming soon...
 
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sorry about that, I thought I posted the link. :oops:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=252851

I used that guide, I was kind of confused when he started saying buy 2 bulbs for 90+ or what not, then said 1 will be fine... well I bought two of the T1.5- CWHP. but you can use different colors, I chose cool white. those are for the two blinkers. the next 4 194-CW5-CBT bulbs are the wedge type bulbs. I chose the $3.95 a bulb again in cool white. those will light up the cluster. that's it. AGAIN, you can chose any color you like, you can also chose to buy more expensive bulbs.

when installing, the wedge shape ones dont matter how you put them in, they are not polarized (no negative and positive) but the twist and lock ones, they are kind of a pain in the ass, but they'll be fine are polarized. so plug them in, test it, then put it back together. you might have to switch them around.
 
I finally built up the will and energy to make a "pressure tester" for my intake system. A trip to the local Lowe's last weekend and I have everything I need.

I bought:
Oateys 3 in pressure test cap (plumbing section)
This cap comes with a large wingnut which won't work if you put the valve stem in it..so I just got a regular bolt at Lowe's instead.
Some jb weld
and Lowe's didn't have this but the tractor supply store did- a core housing for a tubed tire (Schrader valve)

I drilled a hole very close in size of the o ring on the valve stem, then shoved it thru the top section of the pressure cap. JB weld applied liberally to assure it wont pop out under ~30 psi. the bottom portion of the cap I drilled a hole bigger than the valve stem, so when the pressure cap is tightened the valve stem wont stop the two halves of the cap from closing together.

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At the smallest point the pressure cap is just shy of 2.75 inches, which actually fits the stock hose nicely, then you tighten the bolt down to expand the rubber middle of the pressure cap. I'm hoping it will expand to 3 in and will work on the 3 in AMM hose thats on my brothers car.

I left it to dry overnight and went to test this morning. I plugged it in where the AMM would usually go, I pulled the pcv hose off the same hose the cap went in and plugged it a tapered bolt wrapped in Teflon plus a hose clamp. I also pulled the small vac line that runs from the IM to the breather box and plugged that so absolutely no air will get pressurized into the crankcase.

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ugh. this also happened when trying to remove the small vac line from the pcv hose. another problem for another day. jb weld will fix all...(lol ill track one down this week)

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I set the regulator on my small compressor to around 28ish psi and plugged it up to the cap. first test, my tapered bolt blew out the turbo-amm hose...tightened hose clamp more. Test two, I can hear the leaks. I sprayed some soapy water and what do ya know, I found 2 leaks instantly. One is very obvious and coming out the cbv from the top left corner. another from the first charge hose from the turbo to intercooler. With a little more investagating I found some leakage around the valve that presses into the turbo-amm hose for the pcv system.

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(air was very loudly coming out the top left bolt, hopefully its gone now)

I removed the cbv, cleaned it and used some permatex gasket goop on the edges and reinstalled. also put some on the washers of the bolts. I repositioned and retightened the charge hose and that leak stopped. Finally a hose clamp around the pcv valve thing and that one quit. now to wait and hope the cbv isnt leaking.

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(for as long as ive owned the car, this thing has never had a hose clamp. hopefully this fixes some problems)

I also liberally sprayed my whole intercooler, since its still stock I had some suggestions the high pressure would cause the seams to start leaking. Well after like 20 minutes of spraying soapy water all over it, no air bubbles...
can't wait to drive it around and see if my random stumbles are gone!

Finally got this thing back on, after being off for about a year...

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almost forgot...safelite is scheduled to come replace my windshield at work on Tuesday. gonna love the new glass!
 
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Good little write up. Glad it worked out well. I'm excited to hopefully be boost leak free before long also. My turbo to amm hose doesn't have a clamp on that little thing either...

I found a decent writeup not long ago, and I believe he uses the same cap. but all the pics were gone. and I feel like it wasnt very clear on which hoses to block off, but then again, I'm really not sure if I tested inside the intake manifold, or if it stopped at the throttle butterfly valve, or at the IAC. I can mess with it more another time, like pulling a small vac line off the intake manifold to see if air is making it there.

I didn't think before, but it is after the AMM, so if air goes in there the AMM wouldn't meter it. (I would think anyways..)
 
Regarding your pressure test of the hose between your AMM and the compressor inlet, that is a "suction hose" and will only see various vacuum levels to at most atmospheric pressure (0 psig). The leaks you found in that hose at 28 psig won't exist in normal ops. HOWEVER you could have vacuum leaks that would throw off your AMM measurements..... you do want all air "metered" so the LH2.4 can do it's job.

I like you homegrown leak solution from Lowes..... I had a machinist buddy lathe a couple for me and we put a quick disconnect chuck into one end.

Don't forget.... you can actually pressure test your engine as well! If you pull the plugs and turn the engine at the harmonic balancer bolt, you will find a spot where all the intake valves will be closed "enough" to get pressure in the intake track. Don't be surprised if your throttle body leaks at the shaft... mine did! If and when you find that, I'll tell you how to fix that leak.
 
just thinking about my pressure tester, would the inside of the intake system actually see the 28 psi that I put thru that tiny valve? or just a portion of that since the inlet valve is so small compared to the system?

edit. I guess it would build to 28 psi, right?

also, would I have to open the throttle or do anything different when I go to test the engine? same hose to put the "pressure tester" ?

I never did actually see if there was air in the manifold, so I'm not positive I even pressurized that.
 
Your boost gauge in the cabin is reading what the intake sees; I doubt you have the boost set that high - 1.3 bar (approx. 20 psig) should be all you ever try to generate.... higher than that and the gains are lost by the high temps, detonation, etc. etc.

The entrance to your compressor is vacuum, negative pressure. Until the compressor wheel does work on the air, you won't see anything above 0 psig.... and realistically it's negative (slight vacuum).

Trust me - you need to pressurize that entire intake mani, right up to the valves.... many boost leaks to be found there.
 
oh no...I'm only hitting ~14 psi as of right now, but I've read it is a good idea to bump up the pressure while testing just to ensure no leaks. I understand the turbo inlet is vacuum only and doesnt generate any positive pressure, BUT I'm still kind of lost when it comes to pressurizing the intake manifold. Open throttle?

My thoughts are, you put air thru the inlet, comes out turbo, thru intercooler, but wont pass thru throttle body unless opened? am I correct or should I pressurize from a different point?
 
If you still have the factory IAC installed, when you key up ignition to IAC should be open. You'll pressurize that intake..... worst case hold the throttle body plate open with a zip tie.
 
Not much has happened since the last update. I did pressure test the whole system, found a couple leaks from various places, including the cbv still. But other than that, it seems to be pretty tight up to ~28ish psi.

I've most recently hit the 20k miles mark on the new engine, thats pretty exciting. What's not exciting is to see drips of oil under the car...we went to myrtle beach to visit my grandparents that came down from Tennessee, happened to see a couple drops fell off one of the suspension bars. My first thought...RMS. But after cleaning the area and watching constantly, it doesn't seem to be the rms, so maybe the cam plug at the back of the head or the valve cover. THANK GOD.

The hurricane has pushed us and my grandparents back from myrtle, to Kingsport, Tennessee for the week. Car drove like a dream, conquered to mountains with no issues. Lost no noticeable amouny of oil on the dipstick. Suprisingly enough I averaged 25mpg! Its good practice for the Mountain meet coming up in the next few weeks. Ill definitely get some pics on the scenic overlooks, will also get to check out Dollywood!

On another note, the parts cannon is almost done being fired...rubber couplings for the 940 mid mount IC from rock auto ordered, 940 rad hoses, 940 mid mount hard pipes from a member on here, a 954 turbo ecu to replace my 563 (I'm hoping this will fix my fueling issues), ill have to check out some fuel chips for the new ecu, I'm on the verge of buying a saab t for the efan that I have, just awaiting shipping costs. Oh and some new brake hardware to stop the obnoxious brake squeal I have.

Psh , I forgot...as soon as the klracing 940 mid mount IC is back in stock it will be on its way to my door. I'm hoping all this will happen before MountainMeet2k18 , but we will see...
 
Got some things in the mail over the last week. Still waiting on more, but really cant do anything until I decide either to go universal IC or wait on the Klracing to be back in stock...decisions decisions..

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Figured I didnt post a pic on my new RSR, but honestly it'll probably revert back to the original OEM relay and connector from Dave Bartons site.

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Went to myrtle beach to visit my family that was vacationing in Myrtle beach, but after a couple days they evacuated the coast, so we took the chance to go back home with them. To Kingsport, Tennesse, went to Dollywood among other places and saw some cool old cars too.

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A lot of rain otw home, but saw some cool hilly things I dont see everyday

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The tine for the MountainMeet2k18 is coming fast. I have made a list of things to be done before the second ~5.5 hour trip for the wagon in the last 3 weeks, plus this time I have people to impress...

Oil change -done
Trans pan fluid change
Coolant flush
Pressure wash engine bay -done
Pressure wash under body -done
Replace a couple small vacuum lines -done
Wash and wax- washed...not waxed yet
Detail interior- done
Brakes, front and rear, new rear hardware -done
Clean and oil cone filter- done
Lets see if I will chop half a coil off the front.. - not doing that
And finally, up the boost from 12 to 15 :oogle: - yet to do this, but will.

Shouldn't be to bad to do in a 3 day span, and I have 1 of those days off. Gotta start rummaging thru my crap and find spare relays,fuses, exterior bulbs etc..
 
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Replace your rear shocks while you're at it. It's only two bolts and since you'll already be back there... It might also helplevel out the front to back with some fresh shocks.

Oh man...I totally forgot that you gave me those. Ill definitely do that. Now, do you lift the body to extend shock to the max and then remove? That sounds right, right?
 
Oh man...I totally forgot that you gave me those. Ill definitely do that. Now, do you lift the body to extend shock to the max and then remove? That sounds right, right?

The rear suspension will articulate further than the shocks allow..... take care when you go back in with new shocks and lift slightly to enable installation of bolts.
 
Got back from MountainMeet2k18 and had a blast. Met some cool volvo people, saw some bad ass volvos and definitely drove the car the hardest I have ever before. You can definitely feel the body roll and lacking suspension when trying to maneuver the hairpin turns at 40mph.. It was awesome, an adrenaline rush from the get go. The power was there, the one tire fire going up hard inclines and sliding around the non terrifying corners. Very pleased that the car didn't explode during the ride.

Finally got a new camera for the trip, now 16 megapixels will show all...

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