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(formerly) The $700 1988 245

I bet you have a vacuum leak, causing your recirculation issue AND your misfire issue. Once you bite the bullet and dig into the dash far enough, you will find whatever actuator is leaking vacuum. Any vacuum leak will affect engine performance.
 
I bet you have a vacuum leak, causing your recirculation issue AND your misfire issue. Once you bite the bullet and dig into the dash far enough, you will find whatever actuator is leaking vacuum. Any vacuum leak will affect engine performance.

I know there's a vac leak, and I know the recirc actuator is leaking vacuum but even with the recirc button pushed (Blocks off vacuum from the line) the engine still has issues indicating a vac leak. So there's probably a bigger one somewhere.
 
Try disconnecting the vacuum for the HVAC from the engine and capping it. Then run the car and see if the problem goes away. You still have a HVAC problem, but it will tell you if you have an engine problem.
 
So I took a look at my ECUs. The one in the car has 740 turbo written on it and the number is 0 280 000541 but my 780 ECU has the same number. I thought that since the Bertone allowed overboost it would have a different ECU? Is it known how much boost this ECU can handle? I think it has brown top injectors.
 
So the dying issue is only after it fully warms up, if that means anything. Also I cannot figure out how I broke the speedo. It stopped working after I fixed the blower but I can't find anything out of place in that area.
 
Also my air scoop went missing. I assume it flew off on the highway when I was testing the turbo...

I don't think I'll be getting that back a second time.
 
So I took a look at my ECUs. The one in the car has 740 turbo written on it and the number is 0 280 000541 but my 780 ECU has the same number. I thought that since the Bertone allowed overboost it would have a different ECU? Is it known how much boost this ECU can handle? I think it has brown top injectors.

Just for the hell of it,try swapping the ecu's.usually ecu's either work or don't,however I had intermident stall issues on my last 945 turbo.it turned out to be the ecu,I think it was even a 541.
 
Just for the hell of it,try swapping the ecu's.usually ecu's either work or don't,however I had intermident stall issues on my last 945 turbo.it turned out to be the ecu,I think it was even a 541.

Already did, made zero difference. Next step is to test for vac leaks.
 
This is getting frustrating. Can't find any vac leaks whatsoever and I replaced the weird single wire o2 sensor (which was twisted together in the middle after it got cut somehow) which made zero difference.

I got a new dashcam today and tested it. At the start the engine dies and I pop the clutch to restart it.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vK5y_VcPL20" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

EDIT: Also tried a spare MAF. The first one I tried was labeled "fuel injection corporation" and made it run super rich. Then I tried a Bosch and that works fine, but it made no difference to the dying problem. I think the next thing to look into is the IAC. Also swapped the steering wheels. "Racing" wheels don't belong in a 240.
 
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I think replacing the MAF may have fixed the high RPM issue. At least it hasn't happened since I replaced it. The dying at idle issue still persists. I've already tested/replaced the MAF, IAC, ECU, o2, and checked for vac leaks. There might still be a leak, need to cap off the HVAC like 57plymouth said and test.

What could cause the idle to dip and sometimes die after letting off the gas when the engine is fully warmed up? It drives 100% fine when it's not warmed up yet and it only happens when the RPMs are dropping to idle speed.
 
I dynod it because why not. Put on a boost controller and turned it up slightly so it was making 9psi max.

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175HP and 235FT LBs. I'm happy with that.

I only recorded the first run which was kinda messed up. Only made 150.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/R9XTpA4iIyA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
If I whip the steering wheel one way something clunks and then the steering wheel is a little off center. If I whip it the other way it then clunks and goes straight. wtf.
 
I've been doing some minor stuff. Today I replaced the oil drain hose and changed with Rotella 5w40 synthetic. Put on a quality boost controller and it's currently at 11psi. Pulls hard, I love it. Interior is pretty much fixed up, just need to fix the drivers seat and figure out what to do with the boost gauge since I want an oil pressure gauge. Also recently did the tailgate harnesses, so that crap works now. And I did a crappy eBay catch can install which isn't pictured. Just ziptied to the clutch cable next to the brake booster and venting to atmosphere. Better than getting oil on my valve cover, I guess.

IMG_20170315_133528.jpg

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