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tfrasca's 142 Turbo Project

Thanks, guys. The engine bay is not quite finished, as I had to redo the IC to throttle pipe, so there's a unpolished steel (gasp!) one in there now. The idle motor also is not hooked up because of that, so cold starts are pretty annoying. I'll post some 'finished' pictures in a couple days.
 
yeah its running! sweet.

I also don't have the idle motor fitted (plugged the holes), but cold start are no problem at all. when i cold start the car it fire's right away, and idles at 600rpm. when the engine is hot the idle is at 800.

is your brake booster in a good condition? i have had 4 140s and 1 of them had a good working booster, all the other where shot.
 
yeah its running! sweet.

I also don't have the idle motor fitted (plugged the holes), but cold start are no problem at all. when i cold start the car it fire's right away, and idles at 600rpm. when the engine is hot the idle is at 800.

is your brake booster in a good condition? i have had 4 140s and 1 of them had a good working booster, all the other where shot.

The difference between my hot and cold starts seems bigger than yours. Mine will idle hot at 900-1000 (assuming my GT tach is anywhere near accurate), but it won't even run without the gas pedal on cold start. I should have the hoses hooked up by tomorrow.

My booster is in good shape, in that it holds a solid vacuum with no leaks. The brakes feel decent, but I wish they had more initial bite.
 
This is what I ended up with. The intake manifold came out especially awesome, thanks to Noah's TIG skills. So happy with how all of this turned out.

Driving impressions after a few hundred miles and the occasional 8 psi are as follows:

4.30s with any amount of power and an open diff means accidental one tire fire at all times.

The 19t with an open filter and Forge diverter valve is TOO LOUD. I'm hoping the diverter valve is leaking or something, because the constant noise, even when in vacuum is extremely annoying.

I need to add resistance to the gas pedal somehow. It's so light with the Yoshi cable spool that it's hard to drive smoothly.

Case in point: I accidentally went an indicated 125 on my GT speedo.















 
My gas pedal is the same way but I haven't figured out what I'll do about it yet. I used a 240 pedal in my car. It only really bothered me when I was driving on the highway for like 200 miles. I haven't decided if I should just add some kind of return spring to the pedal or what.
 
My gas pedal is the same way but I haven't figured out what I'll do about it yet. I used a 240 pedal in my car. It only really bothered me when I was driving on the highway for like 200 miles. I haven't decided if I should just add some kind of return spring to the pedal or what.

Yeah, I have a 240 pedal and a 960 TB. I tried winding the return spring on the TB tighter, but then it fouls the idle stop and only gives you 1/4 throttle. The only other possibility is to rig a return spring on the pedal. Or pour some dirt into the cable housing.
 
I'd run a spring on the pedal, so the 149/240 doesn't have an adjustable spring on the pedal mount already? Interested to see what you come up with.

Swap looks awesome! Great work!
 
:lol: I tried the same thing with the return spring on the TB. How did you get your TPS to point forward like that? Is it reversible and I just don't know? Mine points back toward that curved piece on the plenum and it puts a lot of pressure on the harness/rubber boot thing when it's plugged in.
 
I'd run a spring on the pedal, so the 149/240 doesn't have an adjustable spring on the pedal mount already? Interested to see what you come up with.

Swap looks awesome! Great work!

Yeah, the 240 pedal has a spring on the pivot, but it's very light. Easiest thing I can think of is a helper spring from the top of the pedal lever to somewhere on the steering column.
 
huh, the 120 pedal has a spring that sits on a bolt that you crank out to add resistance, any way of getting a block or a bolt or something underneath where the spring rests against the firewall?
 
huh, the 120 pedal has a spring that sits on a bolt that you crank out to add resistance, any way of getting a block or a bolt or something underneath where the spring rests against the firewall?

There's no spring on the firewall, it's wrapped around the pivot, perpendicular to the firewall. Although, I suppose I could try to wrap it tighter, like I tried with the throttle body.
 
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