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a one, a two, a one two three four...five...six.....

the poi

Has been
Joined
Jan 5, 2003
Location
Pasadena, CA
some schedule 40 bends, a couple flanges, and everything should be all good :-D

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Here's the fit in the engine bay... the red thing is the smokin hot downpipe...

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Still debating if I should try getting runner 6 on the inside of the downpipe... probably will give it a try. Also need to get a turbo model or make something basic, make sure nothings gonna stick out of the hood. Ah man, now I can go to sleep...
 
That looks cool. Can we have it in extra tall mode so that the turbo DOES stick up out of the hood? ;)
 
Agreed, that would be perfect upside down. ;)
Not sure about the trend of mounting turbo's so high up these days... :)
Sweet job though man.
 
And where is the engine mount? I chose to go behind it, but also had to modify the top. Will your design even go that low?
 
Good point pete- the motor mount is SEVERELY intrusive and limits design options BIGTIME.
 
its in front of the mount, but the lowest point is actually just above the mount. The turbine housing should be approximately next to the coolant bottle. I need to make a decent model of my 60/63 though, I figure the flange may need to move out and down.



and i roll on solidworks. reprizzent.
 
Personally I think that engine is going to be a little canned up on a 60/63, I'd consider a Holset or small T4 for it. Atleast try to model for a bigger turbo if possible so you do have an upgrade path in the future. Also, I'd try to get #6 inboard so fitting the downpipe isn't so hard. Think about trying to remove the downpipe or slipping it on and off the studs if its right in there. Plus, the risk of stuff shifting and getting some annoying rattles and all, just doesn't seem good. Great work though, can't wait to see it.

-Andy
 
mAydAy said:
Personally I think that engine is going to be a little canned up on a 60/63, I'd consider a Holset or small T4 for it. Atleast try to model for a bigger turbo if possible so you do have an upgrade path in the future. Also, I'd try to get #6 inboard so fitting the downpipe isn't so hard. Think about trying to remove the downpipe or slipping it on and off the studs if its right in there. Plus, the risk of stuff shifting and getting some annoying rattles and all, just doesn't seem good. Great work though, can't wait to see it.

-Andy
ya, i am thinking i can get the #6 inboard easily enough. ill give it a try. as far as the turbo, well, with 10.7:1 cr and supposedly weak conrods, i dont think ill really be runnign enough boost to get into the efficeincy range of a bigger turbo. Once I get some more cash though (way in the future eh?), its gonna get huge rods, huge forged slugs, and a huge turbo.
 
the poi said:
ya, i am thinking i can get the #6 inboard easily enough. ill give it a try. as far as the turbo, well, with 10.7:1 cr and supposedly weak conrods, i dont think ill really be runnign enough boost to get into the efficeincy range of a bigger turbo. Once I get some more cash though (way in the future eh?), its gonna get huge rods, huge forged slugs, and a huge turbo.
Compressor wise, yes. Exhaust wise, ehhhhhhhh. I just wonder about trying to flow that much through a 60/63, it won't comfortably. The other reason I was suggesting larger is to prevent hard hitting low RPM boost, the downfall of almost all whiteblocks. Its not airflow on most 850's that bends rods, is the slamming of boost at low RPM's, hence a larger turbo, even if the compressor is out of its efficiency range, is a bit better. Best would be a big turbo and a small compressor, a la t4/t3 I've seen where a T4 turbine is mated to a T3 compressor and housing, for high flow low blow.

-Andy
 
aHA!

Now with better #6 positioning and an honest to god collector! Making the colelctor with nothing but some diagrams, a bandsaw, and the welder should be no sweat at all! :-P Still need to get the header flange right... once I get those measurements, I can smooth out all the piping (meaning, don't mind the gaps).


But anyway:

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that looks nice. What kind of welder are you going to use? A TIG would be best, assuming you use stainless steel. MIG would do to, Stick would be very difficult..
 
It'll be mild steel, and I'll throw it togheter wiht a MIG (dont got a TIG :-( ). It should be okay for my first manifold, mebbe ill improve upon it sometime later wiht SS and some TIG welds

grizly... thats like a 900hp turbo....gimme some time to get new rods and pistons and then sure! :-D
 
Try the smaller centerline radius weld el for tight configurations. It is slightly more expensive, but it helped me out. www.mcmaster.com p/n 43425K157 for the 1 1/2" size.

You can get the pipe anywhere. It is just regular schedule 40 pipe.
 
u know i was thinking about this manifold and if its not going to be equal length or anything exotic you might be just as well making a generously large log manifold. u can make power with a log manifold. and it would be REALLY easy to fab up. when you think about the pre 90 manifolds they are pretty much log manifolds. and people think the 90+ mani is worth 10 hp but when the 90+ mani came out volvo also changed the injection system to a more agressive timing map and put larger diameter pullies on the engine accessories. and changed the turbo and later put on an electric fan. and the HP only jumped from 160 to 168 or something.

and the +10 hp probably really comes from porting the 90+ manifold which everyone does when the put one on a pre 90 car.

i wonder what a ported pre 90 manifold would produce.

so in summary if you want to go fast. a log will probalby do just fine. and be alot easyer. if you want to look good doing it and are really after every last possible horsepower. by all means carry on.

i wonder what the difference is between people loving log intake manifolds and hating log exhaust manifolds?

now for my own solidworks drawing. o the simplicity of it all.
 
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Alrighty. finnaly got my dimensions of the flange, so i coudl finalize the design. now... technically, its a matter of following teh directions--cutting each bend to the right angle and alinging it at the right offset on the next piece. as far as welding strategies go, i'll do the primaries first, one at a time, then attach them to the collector and flange simultaneously. I'll build the colelctor off the ends of the primaries when everythings just tacked on. I designed the collector such that only straight pipe is used in it... I think my wallet will appreciate when I'm on my fourth or fifth attempt :-D

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