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Strut Bearing Failing?

iHateVolvoPeople

Active member
Joined
Feb 1, 2014
Location
Midwest
Mods please move to maintenance and non performance.
1993 244, 140,000 miles.

I've developed this low speed clunky vibration over bumps from the front end of my car. It's noticeable on the left side. Upon jacking it up, all control arm bushings seem in-tact and without play. I tightened the crossmember bolts very tight as well. Ball joints were replaced a year or so ago, but with cheap parts so I'm not sure on the quality. I know I need a passenger side outer tie rod as well.

While in the air if i hit the 12 o'clock position on the tire it makes a vibrating noise similar to the one I hear on bumps. If I compress the spring by hand and hit the tire, the noise almost goes away. Is this a sign of a failing strut bearing? The right side of the car made no noise when I hit the tire.
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Last edited:
Strut gland nut tight?

If you pop the cap off the strut mount and wedge your finger between the nut and the opening in the strut mount, then bounce your weight on the fender, you might be able to feel movement of the nut indicating either it's loose or the bearing has play. Just a thought, I've done that with camber plates when trying to identify an audible clunk. Sometimes I've found the nut to be slightly loose...mark nut & shaft with a felt tip pen and blip the nut tight with an impact and see if the line moves.
 
Strut gland nut tight?

If you pop the cap off the strut mount and wedge your finger between the nut and the opening in the strut mount, then bounce your weight on the fender, you might be able to feel movement of the nut indicating either it's loose or the bearing has play. Just a thought, I've done that with camber plates when trying to identify an audible clunk. Sometimes I've found the nut to be slightly loose...mark nut & shaft with a felt tip pen and blip the nut tight with an impact and see if the line moves.

Before I made this thread I ran the gland nut down with an impact. It did move a little bit but that's normal with 300+ ft/lbs I assume. The noise still persists even after tightening that nut.
 
Strictly by listening to your video I would pop the cap off of the spindle, not the strut mount, pull the cotter pin and give the spindle nut a right hand turn.
 
Strictly by listening to your video I would pop the cap off of the spindle, not the strut mount, pull the cotter pin and give the spindle nut a right hand turn.

I plead ignorance:oops:

Are you saying pull the wheel off, pop the cap off that exposes the nut where the wheel bearing is, and tighten it down?
 
wheel brg either failed or needs adjusting I suspect.

When is the last time the wheel brgs were removed, cleaned and repacked with grease?..............



Never?
 
wheel brg either failed or needs adjusting I suspect.

When is the last time the wheel brgs were removed, cleaned and repacked with grease?..............



Never?

Not since I've owned the car at least. If I go as far as pulling the hearing would it be smarter to just replace it? I can pack the bearing though.
 
It might also be worth noting that there's a clunk while turning at a dead stop in either direction (play in the steering wheel) but i believe the outer tie rod is to blame for that.
 
There may be play in your upper strut area. Just enough to allow play between the shock nut and the upper spring seat. Like your upper strut assembly may be tight, but there is still play. Take the nut off, add a few washers, and then tighten everything back up.
 
Before I made this thread I ran the gland nut down with an impact. It did move a little bit but that's normal with 300+ ft/lbs I assume. The noise still persists even after tightening that nut.
That's not the gland nut.

What holds the strut insert in the tube is the gland nut.
 
That's not the gland nut.

What holds the strut insert in the tube is the gland nut.

This. If the top nut is still loose on top of your strut mount, that's your issue like I said. There's play there, it's going to clunk going over even a small bump. That split second that shock and spring unloads, clunk.
 
This. If the top nut is still loose on top of your strut mount, that's your issue like I said. There's play there, it's going to clunk going over even a small bump. That split second that shock and spring unloads, clunk.

The top one under the cap is the one I ran down with the impact. I thought that was the gland nut.
 
No. That nut keeps the whole upper assembly together, and if there is a little play, when the whole spring and shock unload, it will clunk. Try adding a few washer and see if that takes up the play.
 
No. That nut keeps the whole upper assembly together, and if there is a little play, when the whole spring and shock unload, it will clunk. Try adding a few washer and see if that takes up the play.

Add wAsher's under the top nut? Will do. But what's a gland nut?
 
Not since I've owned the car at least. If I go as far as pulling the hearing would it be smarter to just replace it? I can pack the bearing though.

If you replace the TWO bearings per frt wheels, you also need to replace the race for each bearing.

Just how much natural mechanical skills do you possess? Because installing the races STRAIGHT in the hubs , with out damaging the races.... may be above your skill level (judging by how you've never done a wheel brg replacement)
 
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