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For those wondering if they should pull the trigger on a set of IPD sway bars...

Powder>Paint said:
His powder coat work looks good tho... Just saying. Although 2 bars at 200 it shoulda been 24k powder or something....:rofl:
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I used to do a lot of stuff with them. They are usually REALLY cheap. Always really fast, half the time it's 1-2 days and I have to go pick it up. This was the 1st and only time the price was high, so I just ate it and considered it making up for all of the other cheap deals they gave me.
 
bugjam1999 said:
Ok, that's much cheaper than the uk... Bay Area? My older brother lives in San Francisco, sounds like I should send him on a mission and pay for his excess baggage next time he visits the U.K.

Where are these yards full of 240s laden with aftermarket goodies? Any close to San Francisco?
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For Sale is your best bet.

Pats Parts Blowout [parts added 2/9 - ipd sways, konis, braces]

IMG_4219_zps2ds7t5pb.jpg
 
Fumomike said:
Naww i installed rear and front sway bars on my 90' 760 and it wasn't that big of a difference. I even bought the brace, so like 400$ worth of stuff. Its better definitely but not extreme where i'd say you need to.
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I don't know the suspension on the 760, but on a 240 they make an extreme difference - well, at least the front one does. I put a used turbo sway on the front of my old 240 and it was like night and day, and for the better.
 
Redwood Chair said:
:nod:

$200 - $225 goes a ways @ 17? / hr but meanwhile in the real world gas is ~$3 +, lunch at the roach coach is $10, and the bridges $6+, just say'n.
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Thats where I win! No toll on this side!:) And the roach coach messes up my poos so i stay away. LMAO.. I start in fairfield, then hit richmond up 80, then oaktown, used to go to picka part hayward then(before they closed), newark and if time allows san jose.
 
I've got the 28MM front bar on both of my coupes. Much less tendency to snap oversteer with a 25MM rear bar.
 
So my older bro helps out from time to time with a friend of his that has a tour of lemons car, bro is going to ride along for the next junkyard visit and see what he finds... of course that's no guarantee of finding anything...
 
quillc said:
I've got the 28MM front bar on both of my coupes. Much less tendency to snap oversteer with a 25MM rear bar.
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SO...the 26mm bars my car has are inadequate? The oversteer snaps at ya if you aren't careful...i thought it was just a volvo thing because I feel the front give way for a second then the rear attacks. Coilovers aren't helping me too much either...
 
wagonfan00 said:
SO...the 26mm bars my car has are inadequate? The oversteer snaps at ya if you aren't careful...i thought it was just a volvo thing because I feel the front give way for a second then the rear attacks. Coilovers aren't helping me too much either...
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They aren't really inadequate, if anything your rear bar is too large. I've always felt that the 25/23 bars are a better balance for street cars. If you run a 28MM front bar, you can run a 25mm rear.

Grassroots motorsports has a great article talking about how roll bars work.
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/lean-less/

Essentially what I have experienced over the years driving my various 240s is that the car seems to be relatively balanced overall in its stock form. The wimpy 19mm sways allow enough body lean that the car runs out of grip on the front first and understeers pretty heavily. To drive fast with the stock bars, you have to drive aggressively and keep on the gas (to keep the weight on the rear) while left foot braking for speed control. Otherwise it just ploughs ahead in a turn.

The 25/25 bars are several times stiffer than the stock bars. Because of the architecture of the rear suspension (the lever arm is shorter in the rear), the rear bar ends up being stiffer than the front - even though the bars are the same diameter. As a result, the rear tires run out of grip first - and you snap oversteer. With the larger front bar, you shift back to the front running out of grip first - but not by too much. The relative large increase in stiffness of the 28mm front bar is counteracted by the shorter lever arm in the 25mm rear bar. You get a little understeer with more of a tendency to lose grip in a more balanced way. Understeer is easily counteracted by a little more throttle and you can left foot brake if you want to get fancy.
 
Driver can be a lot of it also. 90% of Americans can't drive for shlt.
If you are yanking on the steering wheel mid turn of course it's going to understeer for a second, then oversteer.
 
Tuff240 said:
Driver can be a lot of it also. 90% of Americans can't drive for shlt.
If you are yanking on the steering wheel mid turn of course it's going to understeer for a second, then oversteer.
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I've always been of the opinion that the stupid shall be punished.
 
Tuff240 said:
Driver can be a lot of it also. 90% of Americans can't drive for shlt.
If you are yanking on the steering wheel mid turn of course it's going to understeer for a second, then oversteer.
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No I can actually drive thank you very much. I'm not the "I think I can drift" type driver. There is a stretch of backroads near my house I get to stretch the car out on. I feel the suspension is dialed in fairly well, if anything I have to make dampening adjustments to the rear end of the car. Just as the grip threshold on the front begins to understeer a bit then the back snaps out if you aren't careful with the throttle. I still have to do some more weight shedding but I don't think that is my cure. My dad's F10 535i has more balance, albeit 30 years newer but he isn't on coilovers.
 
My wife used to complain about all the time and money I spent on suspension stuff for her 245... 23/21mm (I think?) sways and strut-to-firewall braces from a Turbo car, poly bushings, Bilstein HDs, overload springs in the back. Then she spent a weekend driving back and forth to a little camping site out in central Oregon, on twisty back roads - after that she was all "thank you, thank you, thank you..." :-D

A rally driver I am not but it makes the car so much more pleasant to drive.
 
And RedwoodChair, shipping is going to be the main thing. Just sent a steering wheel to the UK and it cost $63. If I come across something in the yards here, I will let you know!
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Did you mean me not redwood chair? I think redwood chair is USA based...

If you did mean me, then please do keep an eye out...
 
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