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1965 "Race Car" Amazon

^^^

what tfrasca said, I can't imagine anyone would think there'd be any functional benefit to be gained from doing that.

I agree but I also received a car from the seller with only the transmission crossmember holding the engine and trans in the car. All engine bolts were finger tight only, etc.... The list goes on, nothing surprises me with this guy anymore.
 
You drive them, you break them....

Had the car nicely dialed in with the Holley electric fuel pump and FPR, things were swell. Except for the fact that my temp gauge was apparently wildly inaccurate. Car must have been overheating for the past few days, and lost all compression today. Looks like I'll be installing engine #3, which is also engine #1. I'm not sure what caused it to overheat in the first place. No leak in radiator or hoses, and oil is coolant free.
 
Dug into it, I hadn't had a chance to even open the hood since Saturday morning. Fuel pump had an issue as well, but that was a minor issue with the relay.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/exim-cars/38403603736/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_0104"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4550/38403603736_414025e64a.jpg" width="282" height="500" alt="IMG_0104"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Popped the hood, pretty obvious what the problem is: I cooked my engine.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/exim-cars/38403596626/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_0105"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4583/38403596626_1884483685.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0105"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Machine shop has my other engine done, so I'll swap engines over Thanksgiving. That engine had ring issues in cylinders 1 and 4, not 3 and 4 as originally thought.

In the meantime, working on getting this one back on the road after 8-10 years of sitting in a field.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/exim-cars/38403589246/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_0107"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4518/38403589246_1f68820533.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0107"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
Finally took the time to get a block to the machine shop. Engine #1 that had low compression was actually cylinders 1 and 4, both of which had a small lip on the cylinder walls. Surprised that the shop missed that the first time, but I'm a little relieved that I didn't screw it up myself.

Engine #2 failed because the water pump failed. It looks like some crud wedged itself in the water pump (dirty block ? Failing rad ?) and stopped it from flowing like it should. Not a huge deal, I'm switching to a new aluminum radiator and the block is getting cleaned.

Since the engine and trans are out again, I may knock off a few hours and paint the engine bay. I don't like the flat black.
 
That's a bummer, Matt. :(
Thanks, mostly annoyed that the shop couldn't take the time to check the bores properly when they re-ringed it. That's an odd for me, they're usually super solid. Mistakes happen.

I'm plugging along on the 59, so no worries.
 
Forget who makes those steering wheels. French company if I'm correct. I think if you change the center (same as on momo) it will look better. Maybe a more period correct logo ?

I had this on my 240 before selling it, 30 euro off ebay, should look correct-ish here too?
uZH6tsa.jpg
 
I had this on my 240 before selling it, 30 euro off ebay, should look correct-ish here too?
uZH6tsa.jpg
Can't hurt to try. I have 4-5 steering wheels hanging on a wall so even if it doesn't fit this one it would probably fit another one.
 
Engine #3 is in. B18 bottom end, bored to 2 liters (so B20). B20F head with injector holes plugged. Runs very, very well.

Fuel pump died this afternoon. Luckily, a friend from the British Car Club was walking home and came to my rescue with a spare electric fuel pump. Not thrilled about the fuel pump that lasted all of 3,500 miles but what can you do....

Going with a Holley low pressure pump as a replacement and I'll grab a spare pump to keep in the car as well.

Thoughts on this: Wiring of tach
I'm running a Smiths tach, and I burned out my last Hot Spark module by wiring it incorrectly.

Anyone have any input ? I'd rather not burn out another module. :oops:
 
"Runs very, very well" means:
60 psi of oil pressure at idle (10W40)
180 F coolant temp
Oil temp of 160-220 when driving
 
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