• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

LH2.2 Tuning For Non-Volvo Installation / X1/9 Dallara + K24 Swap

Today I started putting the engine back together - first I had to fit the KTuned elbow on the head, which required drilling & tapping an M6 hole, and tapping the EGR port off #4 to block that from the water housing (using 1/4" NPT plug)

PXL-20201113-191540657.jpg


PXL-20201113-192439069.jpg


PXL-20201113-194147958.jpg


OEM head gasket this time, no more DNJ

PXL-20201113-194550552.jpg


head positioned on the dowels at each end

PXL-20201113-194910634.jpg


head torqued to spec in 3 stages, 29ft/lb, 90?, 90?. I reused the head bolts - no stretching on any of them checked as per the shop manual

Screen-Shot-2020-11-13-at-6-48-15-PM.png


PXL-20201113-203341320.jpg



Assembled the valve train & cams, (sealant applied to back edge of carrier that falls outside back of head)

PXL-20201113-214042760.jpg


Cam timing verified prior to installing the tensioner

PXL-20201113-214550337.jpg


PXL-20201113-214554688.jpg


marked chain links used to locate reference dots on cams & crank gear

PXL-20201113-214601916.jpg


Timing cover & mating surfaces all prepped, so tomorrow I can get the rest of it back together, then I'll pull the transaxle & install the 4.00:1 ring & pinion
 
Finished assembling the motor - front cover installed, crank pulley torqued, valves adjusted

PXL-20201114-151348101.jpg


PXL-20201114-152718757.jpg


pulled the transaxle

PXL-20201114-200253037.jpg


dismantled,

PXL-20201114-231929090.jpg


stripped the countershaft & transferred to new countershaft - each gear has to be pressed in turn

Screen-Shot-2020-11-15-at-9-50-15-AM.png


New shaft has a different size OD - needs a 35mm ID bearing vs. the 40mm original

PXL-20201114-231720506.jpg


retaining bolt torqued to 87ft/lb

PXL-20201114-231939585.jpg


chopped up a C30 shifter to use

PXL-20201104-205618049.jpg


heated and shaped the lever to dogleg it over to the left - so it will be centered in the console. C30 shift knob has the correct shift pattern to match the TSX 6 speed.

PXL-20201104-220928967.jpg


PXL-20201104-220952351.jpg


Back when I had to mod the AST5 casing to take the RSX shift assembly -


IMG-6639.jpg


IMG_6642.jpg



The problem with that is the RSX assembly flange sits directly on top of the old bolt hole at the right in the pic. It's been seeping fluid for the past 600 miles, so I figured I should try to rectify that whilst the case is apart.

I cleaned & filled the old passages with JB Weld - I'll sand & plane them to make a seamless seat for the shaft assy

PXL-20201116-222142585.jpg


I also installed the 4.00:1 ring gear on the mFactory LSD today - bolts torqued to 89ft/lb


PXL-20201116-200439521.jpg
 
Last edited:
Countershaft bearing finally came, so cleaned up the shift gate flange, I got the transaxle back together, mated with engine, new (Volvo) T/stat in place, SS water pipes (made by Brown& Miller Racing Solutions) installed, and drivetrain hung in bay before the daylight went away

PXL-20201117-200958490.jpg


PXL-20201117-195242170.jpg


PXL-20201117-201330235.jpg


PXL-20201120-214839289.jpg


PXL-20201121-180730558.jpg


PXL-20201121-180759966.jpg


PXL-20201121-180840495.jpg


PXL-20201121-180854209.jpg


PXL-20201121-180942285.jpg


PXL-20201121-185508756.jpg


PXL-20201121-213728188.jpg


PXL-20201121-213755102.jpg


PXL-20201121-213840413.jpg


PXL-20201121-213819885.jpg
 
Last edited:
Got the subframe in, axles, suspension & brakes back on, and removed the shift assy, cut, drilled & welded the modded C30 shift lever in place


PXL-20201122-192157461.jpg


PXL-20201122-192207625.jpg


PXL-20201122-192214450.jpg


Volvo 740T expansion tank hose cut to fit

PXL-20201122-192230611.jpg


C30 Shifter

PXL-20201123-220308156.jpg


PXL-20201123-220322330.jpg


has the correct shift pattern to match the Honda trans

PXL-20201123-220330056.jpg
 
I got the shifter & cables back in, the slave cylinder reinstalled, reattached the starter cables, etc., the water pipes back in, made a new plenum gasket, and installed the plenum

PXL-20201124-202256979.jpg


PXL-20201124-203737892.jpg


PXL-20201124-203929921.jpg


PXL-20201124-205925748.jpg


PXL-20201124-210057020.jpg


PXL-20201124-220114570.jpg



index.php


Putting the TB, inlet, Header & exhaust back on

PXL-20201125-182348404.jpg


PXL-20201125-182854676.jpg


PXL-20201125-201227700.jpg


PXL-20201125-201623761.jpg


PXL-20201125-205603130.jpg


Switched to a different ECU fan PWM controller - less features but comes with directions for DIP settings

PXL-20201126-175450087.jpg


Going to add EMPI 12" limiter straps to make servicing the axles without stressing the CV's as soon as the strut is removed - going to go from the (bracket previously used for rear swaybar endlink) control arm to the triangle reinforcement forward of the rear crossmember.

PXL-20201126-185726932.jpg


IMG-20190924-173234.jpg


IMG_20191102_171056.jpg
 
Modified the Console to fit the Volvo P1 shift boot

PXL-20201127-203645229.jpg


PXL-20201127-210919397.jpg


Got all the EMS kit back in the trunk, I have the engine running. I still have the problem with the coolant temp running well over 190? before the thermostat opens, by then it doesn't come back down to normal op, even with the fan cycling. What I surmise, is that with the T/stat housing extension I had to make to fit the t/stat where it makes sense for my layout, the (stock 180?) T/stat doesn't get up to temp until the head temp is around 210?. The extension is dropping the coolant temp at least 20? at the t/stat.

extension connects to water housing, expansion tank (top) heater return (bottom)

IMG-20191129-141503.jpg


IMG-20191129-142924.jpg


going through spares I have - looking for 160? or 170?

PXL-20201127-222810685.jpg


ended up buying a 13376 (Stant 160?) - drilled a bleed hole & reduced the OD of the bypass shut off to clear the housing base.

PXL-20201128-183725194.jpg


since these are 54mm vs. 56mm of the original Volvo units, I needed a spacer seal to make up the 7mm seal height needed for the P1 t/stat housing cover

PXL-20201128-183735038.jpg


PXL-20201128-181952542.jpg


With the 160? t/stat installed, I now have head temps at the water outlet housing of 184?F, and the rad fan cycles at 190?, right where it's supposed to.
 
Headlamps back in

index.php


index.php


index.php


Installed the rear limiter straps (EMPI 12") needed only for when servicing the struts to prevent straining the Honda CV's

PXL-20201207-214853218.jpg


used 7/16-20 seat belt bolts for the control arm attachment

PXL-20201207-214906026.jpg


PXL-20201207-220643868.jpg


PXL-20201207-220732103.jpg
 
Last edited:
Worked on the engine cover & splash guard (chopped up P1 splash shields)

PXL-20201208-200116851.jpg


PXL-20201208-213746287.jpg


PXL-20201208-213756747.jpg


version I made before accident

index.php


after accident

IMG-20200502-192138.jpg


under repair, adding sections to improve coverage

IMG-20201210-172042.jpg


pulled dash in preparation for heater box removal, also have some more wiring to deal with

IMG-20201212-151017.jpg


IMG-20201212-175520.jpg


IMG-20201212-175529.jpg
 
Put the ductwork back in to check harness routing, had to rewire center console harness (again) to allow it all to be pulled back when servicing the console switch housing.

IMG-20201215-172447.jpg


This is where I left off, temps dropped into the teens, too cold to work out there

IMG-20201221-085111.jpg


Decided to work on the dash / cluster layout, since that I can do in the house & basement

Went through several incremental revisions of the binnacle - which is a typical 80's Bertone layout - really boxy design.
When Bertone designed this revision, they moved the entire cluster several inches closer to the driver, which cuts off visibility of the gauges. They did this to allow for the AC side dash vents to pass behind. Sloppy work, as they could have spent time making the layout more efficient & not add so much space between the bulkhead & IP

pass side

IMG_20201218_145645.jpg


driver's side - you can see the offset of the fixed tube could have easily been angled to allow at a couple inches of more of additional space here

IMG_20201218_145530.jpg


IMG_20201218_145655.jpg


Depth from dash to center vent - this is where the AC panel has to fit, so space is more critical

IMG_20201218_150226.jpg


chopped a couple inches off the back of the control panel, to allow it to sit back and on an angle

IMG_20201218_171227.jpg


Initial plan - eliminate some of the binnacle to reduce the overhang & angle the center panel toward the driver

IMG_20201218_193204_2.jpg


IMG_20201218_151925.jpg


IMG_20201218_151936.jpg


After 1st cuts - what I did was cut off the outer 1/2" lip of the binnacle first, to then attach it later once the work is done, hence the masking tape here

IMG-20201218-171453.jpg


Comparison with original binnacle ( I cut up the spare from my parts car)

IMG_20201218_173621.jpg


It appears the binnacle is solid rubber, or a rubber-compound, it cuts & smells just like old tires

In cutting the binnacle, I also realized the cluster is elevated relative to the main dash, more obvious with the tapered exterior chopped back. This also doesn't help with gauge visibility, so I will address that also

IMG_20201219_113050.jpg


you can see the 'ramp' here

IMG_20201219_113033.jpg


chopped another section off the binnacle, and reduced the thickness of the lower ledge about 1/2" or so

IMG-20201220-131200.jpg


IMG-20201220-192712.jpg


Having dropped the cluster base, I had to remake the face panel for the gauges. Will be covered in vinyl

IMG-20201223-104231.jpg


IMG-20201222-170503.jpg


I had also chopped off all the stock cluster mounts, so I had to figure out a new system. What I ended up with, are those generic household shelving brackets - I drilled installed M4 rivnuts in them to secure the panel, and drilled through the rubber to utilize the existing peg mount

test on scrap - recessed the flange into the rubber

IMG-20201221-174328.jpg


IMG-20201221-174344.jpg


Five mounts in place - detail

IMG-20201221-175041.jpg


seat-of-the-pants rebuild of the center support panel for the AC controls & extra gauges (used to be the radio location). Reversed locations - AC on bottom, gauges one top. I use ABS plumbing cement here. Patch it together to align with available dash mount points (3)

IMG-20201222-180329.jpg


IMG-20201222-183836.jpg


IMG-20201222-183850.jpg


IMG-20201222-185818.jpg


IMG-20201222-190422.jpg


a little UPOL Gold to fill the imperfections where I chopped apron 3/8" off the top of the binnacle

IMG-20201223-153531.jpg


overall layout - moved WBO2 to main cluster, even with a modified VDO bezel, it still protrudes more than the old VDO & Veglia gauges (which I want to keep)

IMG-20201223-200128.jpg


AlpineTech makes nice indicator bulbs, so no need for the descriptor labels I had previously

IMG-20201223-195550.jpg


IMG-20201223-195721.jpg


Happy with the overall flow now. I like the setback into the dash compared to the massive overhang of the stock layout.

IMG-20201223-200207.jpg


Just have to cut another tweeter hole (using tweeters from the S40 AWD parts car), and repair the one crack by the right of the center vent

IMG-20201223-200158.jpg


IMG-20201222-191735.jpg


What I was using for comparison (in the setback of the cluster dept.) - the original 70's dash layout -

Screen-Shot-2020-12-17-at-10-13-54-AM.png


compared to mine ('87) as it was

IMG-20200302-173705.jpg
 
Last edited:
Covered the dash top with 1/16" neoprene, then with faux leather (vinyl) that has the same texture as the original

IMG-20201226-141325.jpg


IMG-20201226-172839.jpg


IMG-20201226-172850.jpg


GPS unit for the speedo

IMG-20201226-164426.jpg


test fitting in the car, need to rearrange a bunch of wiring

IMG-20201228-163300.jpg


IMG-20201228-163442.jpg


Gauges still partially obstructed, but I can see the top left outer & top right inner by moving my head slightly

IMG-20201229-113144.jpg


wired the tweeters so they can be unplugged at the base of the dash, no way to reach the actual tweeter once dash is in. Also put V70 under dash lights in the lower strip, hopefully give some light under there.

IMG-20201229-150643.jpg


IMG-20201229-151340.jpg
 
Last edited:
Been working on the right side wiring

IMG-20210102-094542.jpg


IMG-20210103-173955.jpg


Relay box back in

IMG-20210103-174454.jpg


added an fused aux power supply junction for some the extra crap I've added over the years - should be familiar to some of you

IMG-20210101-160005.jpg


central lock

IMG-20210101-162706.jpg


replaced the old molex-style connectors (that overheat) with TS090 housings & terminals

IMG-20210109-130641.jpg


IMG-20210110-154844.jpg


rewired for VW 99 programmable delay wiper relay

original crap

IMG-20210106-172449.jpg


new(er)

IMG-20210108-160709.jpg


IMG-20210109-150732.jpg


Volvo wiper relay also works now - just no programming

IMG-20210109-150746.jpg


With that mostly resolved, I removed the HVAC box to deal with the heater core

IMG-20210110-170643.jpg


IMG-20210110-170646.jpg


IMG-20210110-182413.jpg


with the box out, I tidied up the wiring behind

IMG-20210111-173343.jpg


Tweeter covers finally came

IMG-20210111-175106.jpg


have to rebuild the HVAC box next
 
Last edited:
Dismantled & refurbished the HVAC box

IMG-20210111-103232.jpg


cleaned all the sections

IMG-20210111-121345.jpg


checked brushes, bearings, etc

IMG-20210113-091250.jpg


Made new Neoprene gaskets for the Evaporator

IMG-20210112-154727.jpg


Box to body seal

IMG-20210113-153411.jpg


Center vent housing seal

IMG-20210113-091318.jpg


Removed and refurbished the flaps - the upper one had a seized hinge, which cracked the main housing by stressing the recirc door

IMG-20210112-154555.jpg


repaired the hinges

IMG-20210112-154631.jpg


IMG-20210112-154555crop.jpg


Made the recirc control removable - drilled out the rivets & used M5 rivnuts instead

IMG-20210114-111338.jpg


Haven't put it back in yet, as complete access to the floor pan for repair is easier with that center area unobstructed. I've put this off for at least 6 years - so about time I deal with it

PXL-20210115-222804643.jpg


Start on cutting out the rot

PXL-20210117-220035189.jpg


3 layers to deal with up here - not included in the replacement floor section

PXL-20210117-220058355.jpg


cut back

PXL-20210119-205911664.jpg


PXL-20210119-205857389.jpg


additional hole in the inner sill

PXL-20210119-205513291.jpg


Replacement panel - not formed, but cut :(

PXL-20210118-193236071.jpg


rough fit

PXL-20210119-201017336.jpg


rebuilding the bulkhead layers

PXL-20210122-231315480.jpg


PXL-20210123-223546327.jpg


PXL-20210124-221504349.jpg


Sill patches

PXL-20210121-223520768.jpg


PXL-20210123-223453201.jpg


seams welded in floor section

PXL-20210121-205758358.jpg


test fit again, had to deal with some adjustments from distortion when welding the cuts

PXL-20210125-210642760.jpg


PXL-20210125-210658026.jpg


That's where I'm at - I hate rust repair. Getting there, slowly but surely.
 
Last edited:
It's been bloody cold here in my part of NY, along with some mild health issues, I haven't been doing much on the car - I'm lucky if I get the metal of the body up to 40?F, so it sucks all the heat out of me leaning on it or under it to work.

PXL-20210131-162255385.jpg


Anyway, I did have time to get the floor pan fitted. stripped all mating surfaces (about 1" overlap) Rough sanded for adhesion with the Fusor 2 part body epoxy. Cut the drain hole to match the factory drains in the three other areas. This product is very low odor and has about 90min work time - so not difficult to work with for fiddly panels like this

PXL-20210130-181919649.jpg


put a schmear of epoxy over all the mating surfaces first, as they recommend, then approx 1/4" bead on one of the mating surfaces

PXL-20210130-191656287.jpg


PXL-20210130-191702950.jpg


PXL-20210130-191710028.jpg


Installed. Setup times are all rated at ambient temp -around 70?F - so it will take probably twice as long (at least) in the unheated garage temps of around 20?F. Once it's cured, I'l grind off all the rivets ends on the inside & caulk the seams with a good paintable body caulk

PXL-20210130-202057921.jpg


PXL-20210130-202132397.jpg


PXL-20210130-202916098.jpg
 
Last edited:
Moving along with the floor... sanded the epoxy seams, ground back the rivets, primed & ready to caulk

index.php


caulked - & final primer inside & out

PXL-20210206-185310161.jpg


PXL-20210206-185331420.jpg


PXL-20210206-190757757.jpg


Seam is reasonably concealed on this side. I think once the (3M) Rocker Schutz & Undercoat are applied it will be invisible

PXL-20210206-190816714.jpg


PXL-20210206-190828862.jpg


had time to get first layer of top coat on the inside

PXL-20210206-211333815.jpg


also made a housing for the power window relay mod - I used 900 series relay sockets -

PXL-20210206-203136218.jpg


based on this type retainer

PXL-20210206-203325749.jpg
 
Last edited:
More paint

PXL-20210207-161252300.jpg


PXL-20210207-161423010.jpg


Removed the Rad/Fans/AC condenser to replace the damaged condenser

PXL-20210207-151332473.jpg


PXL-20210207-151316044.jpg


I'd like to have added a Volvo fan - but just no room to make it work

PXL-20210207-151822894.jpg


Cut slots to add side vents like a Volvo setup (took the flaps from my old V70 fan shroud)

PXL-20210207-191308862.jpg


PXL-20210207-191322878.jpg


PXL-20210207-194249466.jpg


New condenser attached

PXL-20210207-184851112.jpg


Adding a VW two-temp fan switch

PXL-20210207-162808737.jpg


Need to add a another fuse/relay panel up front to run the headlights, fans, etc.,

PXL-20210207-141731851.jpg
 
Last edited:
Been working on the rad/ AC cold. install - I decided to revise the layout after I found a posting from another X1/9 where they tipped the rad backwards to alleviate the fans pointing uphill into the back of the tub. I can't go as extreme as in my case the AC condensor & 3" rad core prevent the same degree of offset.

Normally the rad leans forward - following the nose rake - now I have it about 6" back. Added an angle bracket at the top to locate it whilst I rework the rad support

PXL-20210213-225536853.jpg


PXL-20210213-225616660.jpg


PXL-20210215-194556423.jpg


Started cleaning up all the wiring - going to use a Volvo 900/850/x70 fan relay

PXL-20210214-205637153.jpg


PXL-20210214-210411671.jpg


chopped up some 700 ancillary adjuster arms & used the sleeves & 1378153 bushings to isolate & mount the support at the required angle

PXL-20210213-222331478.jpg


PXL-20210213-222338658.jpg


in place

PXL-20210214-210900385.jpg


welded some 3/8 stock to the rad base & threaded about an inch

PXL-20210215-171436284.jpg


bushing to isolate rad some more

PXL-20210215-171410761.jpg


PXL-20210215-185421133.jpg


Rad didn't want to align with evenly spaced brackets - determined the rad was tweaked in the accident - so I bolted a couple 6' angle iron to it & tweaked it back

PXL-20210213-205514532.jpg


test fit - had to cut the lower hose due to the increased distance

PXL-20210213-224837250.jpg


fans now sit at half below the floor line & point downward compared to original layout

PXL-20210215-214425685.jpg


made seal attachments to close off gap above & below rad

PXL-20210216-190824431.jpg


PXL-20210216-171731098.jpg


riveted seal support brackets once I got the precise location figured out

PXL-20210216-203738968.jpg


PXL-20210216-203710300.jpg


then paint

PXL-20210216-221403254.jpg


PXL-20210216-221340206.jpg


PXL-20210216-221421549.jpg


just have to finish up the fan shroud mods to compensate for the revised offset

PXL-20210216-221427019.jpg
 
Last edited:
Did some cleanup on the shroud, and also I added a locating tab - since I removed the lower frame section of the shroud the bottom edge is no longer rigid.

index.php


Started on the wiring for the fan circuit - I'm leaving all the stock wiring intact unused, except for the AC-on trigger. The Volvo relay will go under the molded AC hose/wiring cover. I'm moving the headlamp relay mod under that cover also.

index.php


although I have the big ugly fuse breaker & Honda ELD, I really don't want extra wires running over by the battery or over to the wiper relays, so I ran new wires crimped with the fusebox supply cable, in through the bulkhead & back out into the trunk following the stock harness. I used heavier (than the Fiat) gauge Volvo wires - to make sure I don't have load issues. These will be the fused 30 supplies to the headlamp relays, wiper relays, cooling fan relay, and something else I've probably forgotten at the moment

index.php


Tidied up the new wiring (constant feeds) to the fuse box, wired the two headlamp relays & the cooling fan supply relay, and added 2 switched feeds .

Plenty of spare fused circuits should I need them. So far, every time I thought I was done, I needed more circuits.

index.php


Added 2 M6 rivnuts for relays, cooling fan/sensor grounds - one for power (fan) grounds the other for sensor/relay coil

index.php


Fuse panel will go under here, eventually. I have to fix the inner fender / strut reinforcement behind it first - I was going to leave that until next year

index.php


Weather-proof connectors finally came so I got the body-side fan connections in place
Yazaki 58 series

index.php


index.php


VW fan switch connector & boot in place

index.php


For the larger ground connections I had to buy yet another tool - I have a hydraulic crimp tool, but that is only for closed barrel type, not 'open barrel'

index.php


Cut holes for tub vents / brake ducts - I'm keeping it non-structural, so no cutting of the frame rail. Using readily available ducting. 3x4 rectangle fits between the frame.

index.php


index.php


index.php


index.php
 
Cut out the right side ducts

index.php


index.php


ducts bonded in place

index.php


wiring to fan sensor done

index.php


sidetracked with some rust repair - I was going to leave this for another year or so, but I need to do it now

index.php


cut out driver's side rot

index.php


removed & cleaned up the rot off the brake line brackets

index.php


templates & cut repair sections

index.php


test fit

index.php


index.php


left side mostly done

index.php


right side tacked

index.php


Once these are finished, I have to add reinforcement plates from the strut housing back down the lower frame rail - chopped up a S40 bumper bar to use for that

index.php


Once this is done, I can get back to finishing the wiring, get the rad back in, then get the HVAC & dash back in....
 
Got the repair panels all welded after this

PXL-20210308-224507673.jpg


and added the reinforcements cut from the S40 parts car bumper

PXL-20210312-225754273.jpg


PXL-20210313-180937366.jpg


primed, caulked & painted ready for stone chip & undercoat

PXL-20210313-210237433.jpg


PXL-20210313-210314177.jpg


stil have to do cleanup on the inside

PXL-20210313-210751888.jpg


PXL-20210313-210135053.jpg


figured out the brake line brackets

PXL-20210313-214821162.jpg


made a bracket to mount the relay/fuse panel - cut up a V70 AWD fuel filter bracket

PXL-20210308-201350128.jpg


PXL-20210308-224630108.jpg


tub area done


PXL-20210313-210405448.jpg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top