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first time rebuilding a 530 head

Jack

Jack

junkman
Joined
Jul 7, 2011
Location
The Ass Cheek Of History
long story short... my 280k 85 volvo has 2 exhaust studs broken on cylinder #4. I failed at taking them out. Instead of rebuilding the head thats on the car currently I pulled one from a JY.

"new" head Came out of a 91 or 92 940 230ft engine with 180k miles

I never rebuilt any b230 head and I want to get it done right the first time

3wq.JPG

5x6s.jpg

4vsw.jpg


I know I need new exhaust studs - which brand and should I go with turbo or NA
I have reused headbolts many times on different cars - is this hold true for redblocks
should I replace valve guides, keepers seals, springs? which brand?
which brand head gasket?

are these sensors the same on the original head or do i have to swap them over ?
9eg2.jpg


installing an "b" cam from this engine (square tooth) does the cam gear just swap over ?
pwxo.jpg


since the intake is gasket matched I will do the same for exhaust

thanks for your help
Jack
 
Last edited:
jack8745 said:
what about valve seals? since I'll will be swapping the cam over
Click to expand...

Why bother and take a chance on disturbing a good thing with factory settings that's proven itself to be sound for many years?

They will run practically forever with fresh Delo 15-40.

Like a million miles never been apart 'forever'.

<a href="http://s255.photobucket.com/user/redwoodchair/media/Random%20Volvo/Volvo%20High%20Miles/965_000_miles-1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh136/redwoodchair/Random%20Volvo/Volvo%20High%20Miles/965_000_miles-1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 965_000_miles-1.jpg"/></a>

:uh:
 
Definitely make sure its flat. Most of the heads I've pulled have been beyond tolerances when I've checked them. They can warp when you take them off, even if they've never been overheated and ran fine.
 
jack8745 said:
hot tank and resurface if needed is like $50-70 at a machine shop. I might just do that and have them replace the exhaust studs with new ones
Click to expand...

That is cheaper than a second head gasket set, if you have to do it a second time.
 
Why does the last plug (the first on the left in first picture appear at different angle. I also cannot make out its electrode end. Cross threaded?
 
jack8745 said:
cool I will get one going.

hot tank and resurface if needed is like $50-70 at a machine shop. I might just do that and have them replace the exhaust studs with new ones
Click to expand...

That's pretty cheap for that work.

For that price I'd do it too.

The turbo exhaust studs are harder and longer, PM ryanfay for the skinny on those.
 
should I exhange this head because of the spark plug fuk? There is 2 740 turbos from mid 80s in the yard.... for some reason im thinking that the later heads had larger valves ?
 
122power said:
Why dont you run a cometic? And I wouldnt run delo if you have a cat on there, and or concerned with the smog. - It will break the cat down faster than regular oil.
Click to expand...

Smog, Jack-smog?

:lol:

Since when does anybody on here care about the environment?

jack8745 said:
should I exhange this head because of the spark plug fuk? There is 2 740 turbos from mid 80s in the yard.... for some reason im thinking that the later heads had larger valves ?
Click to expand...

Kind of a toss up, a low mile head with only one small problem is hard to find.

On the other hand the machine shop can do all four and get steel threads in there...
 
the other 230ft head at the yard has 199k on the clock so who knows how many real ones. others have 280k

but this is what I just found.... must have been on there for a while... you can hardly tell on the cam
front of engine cam keeper - all others are fine
opinion?
t34r.jpg



I only have cats on the shelf and in the laundry room
 
Redwood Chair said:
You can get it flat with a piece of granite, some grip contact cement, and #400 wet dry.
Click to expand...

RWC is, as usual, indeed correct on the granite routine- and it's not rocket science- BUT one must be willing to be VERY careful- as well as very patient. Check and recheck and then check again.

CLEAN EVERYTHING IMMACULATE SPOTLESS FIRST- during, after and then again.

Be certain to check flatness, as well at intake and exhaust. USE REAL, NEW VOLVO COPPER NUTS ON ALL EXHAUST RELATED. Assemble none without quality antisieze AND a tourque wrench; green book in hand.
RWC's elbows and wrists are torque calibrated- so ignore him when he says to forego the ACCURATE torque wrench.
Quality light will be needed to see flatness.
Yer DEWIN' guud!
 
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