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240 '89 244 lh2.4 2-3-2



What's more, I cannot visibly see it leaking, as it only does whilst I am driving. Makes it quite irksome, but by going from the visual evidence, I would have to say this is the cause.
 
scrape the crap off the FLAT SURFACE and look for a tiny crack

check the HEATER HOSE isn't pissing a fine stream at that area

BORROW a "cooling system pressure tool" and run the pressure up to
the system pressure ....
aftermarket_testers.jpg


mebbe @ Vato Zone??
 
If it only leaks while you're driving I'd suspect a heater hose. Try revving it while it's parked and see whether anything sprays out from that area.
 
I tried revving, holding at 3,000 revs, and above produced nothing. Pressure test results! So I pressurized the system to 18 PSI (poorly since the Zone didn't have the adaptor I needed) and it didn't leak a drop. Nothing. Bone dry. I wish there was an emoticon for ripping your hair out, because that's what I am doing.
 
volvoboy90 said:
I tried revving, holding at 3,000 revs, and above produced nothing. Pressure test results! So I pressurized the system to 18 PSI (poorly since the Zone didn't have the adaptor I needed) and it didn't leak a drop. Nothing. Bone dry. I wish there was an emoticon for ripping your hair out, because that's what I am doing.
Click to expand...

Stress-Relief1.jpg


take a piece of *heavy-weight* loonyum foal and glue some paper
towel to BOTH SIDES ... insert this between the heater hose and
the temp sensor...the side that gets wet as you drive is the side the
leak is on...you can also dust the area w/some foot powder or
baby powder....the place where MOST of the powder is gone from is
your leak....not expensive and not high tech but that's the way I've been
locating persistent INTERMITTENT leaks for years....I now use the
"coolant DYE" and a UV "flashlight" w/the yellow enhancing lenses and
find the leaks a bit faster....
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/R...k=Keyword&Nty=1&Dn=0&D=UV+light&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0
NAPA also stocks the UV Dye for cooling systems...I got the "UV flashlight
and glasses set last year on special for about $30 USFRN (easier for me to
do quick checks instead of hauling out the whole Tracerline kit....
 
Thank you, trick... that picture does the trick nicely. I will certainly do my best to pull it off... will keep ye posted.
 
volvoboy90 said:
You were right, trick, the side facing the heater hose was soaked.
Click to expand...



*GOOD CATCH*.....don't forget that you have to be careful
"down there" whilst replacing hoses so you don't tear up the
valve / heater core....use ABA clamps just like the one you
can see in your pic (they are FULL CIRCLE w/NO "slots"
to cut into the hose and ROLLED EDGES....) I'd try to get
factory hoses if you can just because it IS a PITA job to do
hose-clamp-aba-original.jpg


I put a set of McKays on my GreyGhost way back when and
they are still good to go....ScanTech / URO / MTC are all
suspect at this point (failures on them HAVE been posted...)
 
So whilst I am waiting on the heater hoses, the low vacuum and the 2-3-2 is still persisting. Today, when I started her, she was running LEAN high 17's!! I turned her off, looked for any loose vacuum lines, checked codes, etc (2-3-2 again) and after I drove her eh... maybe 2 minutes, she got out of her funk, but it is still causing issues, this damn code. Next step?
 
Alrighty! So I swapped out the orange body injectors I had in, putting in my orange top injectors, afr's were still in the low 15, high 14 range on start-up after resetting the ECU since 1-1-3 was an injector fault. Guess we'll see how she does over these next few days. My hopes of receiving the heater hoses this weekend are Bust, as FCP took 3 days to ship them. I'll keep you all updated.
 
volvoboy90 said:
No more leaking glycol everywhere! or... anywhere for that matter. Now back to my vacuum issue?
Click to expand...


I *think* if I were there with you we'd be testing the wideband
to make damned sure *IT* was reading correctly (the least that's
the way I approach these conundrums)....I *know* everybody and
his brother wants the latest coolest hippest *stuff* on their machinery
but this is not necessarily the BEST way to go about getting an
engine dialed in....then we'd go after the vacuum reading.... it is
so freakin hard to get stuff done over the interwebs because we
may not ascribe value to a reading that may or may not be related
to a supposed "problem"....

what wideband and what "read out" are you using..let's start there
(and where do yo have the sensor mounted and in which orientation??)
 
This is the wideband I have. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ITFA9Q/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It is an AEM 30-4100 Digital Wideband Air/Fuel UEGO Gauge.
I am just using the preset readout. which has a readout of 0-4.25 volts. I also still have my stock bosch o2 sensor in as well.

Here is the little bugger.




In that last picture, it is too the left, same as the pic before. It is angled up 10 degrees, as per the instructions.

I notice two of the pictures are quite large, photobucket should change that soon-ish.
 
volvoboy90 said:
*bump?*
Click to expand...

put your DVOM on the NARROWBAND and measure the sweep...
put a piece of duct tape over the face of the "A/F Ratio Meter"
( we don't want no steenkin clutter )...*IF* you have a set of
NEW SPARK PLUGS (as in *NEW* not "new to you" ) get them gapped
and ready to roll - whether you install or not depends upon what
results you get from READING THE SWEEP on the O2 sensor that
is feeding the fuel / ignition system....we want this to be a
"two part-er"....one at idle and one under boost...)

read up on performing a *PLUG CHOP* (I'll let YOU work the
google machine...;-) ... )

TTFN
 
DVOM... You lost me, trick. Sparkplugs were replaced last month... So... yeah. wait... Digital Volt Ohm Meter? or Digital voltmeter?
 
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