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CDxxx on Volvo 740 + Infinity G37 driveshaft

I think that a company in Wisconsin is making curd cheese ? la Qu?b?coise now and shipping it to US restaurants that have poutine on their menus.

But anyway, we can write about that meal all day long in OT so lets get back on track guys! :-P

We were in Seattle this summer, the poutine was all wrong.

Poutine is objectivly more important than whatever this thread is about.
:-P
 
My 740?

It's a 1990 solid axle car. I want to make it IRS though.

Yeah, ok, I wanted to know if you were trying to swap some IRS to replace the Volvo IRS.

Also, your car, being a 1990, have all the mounting point for the Volvo 900 IRS.

Why not use a Volvo IRS I might ask...
 
Yeah, ok, I wanted to know if you were trying to swap some IRS to replace the Volvo IRS.

Also, your car, being a 1990, have all the mounting point for the Volvo 900 IRS.

Why not use a Volvo IRS I might ask...

Nivomat?

I'm looking at an S14 complete rear subframe with the diff and all.
 
Ah come on now!

Did I say a stock Volvo IRS?

You do know you can put whatever shocks you want right?

Same with the diff.

Yeah... You got me thinking there. I actually have a 1992 960 I could take the IRS from. This could be a easier option and I could spend the $500 on a good set of shocks.
 
Yeah... You got me thinking there. I actually have a 1992 960 I could take the IRS from. This could be a easier option and I could spend the $500 on a good set of shocks.

Exactly.

MK1 Volvo Irs.
No stupid weird ass leaf spring thing.

And with a grinder and a welder (and a will to use them) you could put whatever diff you want to put in.

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AND,
We know somebody who makes adaptors for the CV axles :oogle:.

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Did you get to weight that thing?

The whole assembly?

No.

The subframe itself is not heavy at all and the lower trailing arms (the big ones) are essentially the same.


Educated guess: It's probably a little heavier than the solid axle, but nothing substantial.
 
['s QUOTE=Vincent Gagnon;5892152]The whole assembly?

No.

The subframe itself is not heavy at all and the lower trailing arms (the big ones) are essentially the same.


Educated guess: It's probably a little heavier than the solid axle, but nothing substantial.[/QUOTE]

What diff is that you put in the 960's rear subframe?
 
Humm... With the CDxxx gear ratios I need a something around 3.31.

Yeeeeeeah, that's what I found (and from what I have seen so far it's true:

Look at the drivers side door jam tag, under the sku there is two lines of code, the one that starts with A/TM: the "A" is the differential the "TM" is Tranny. The following codes are for diffs:

G284 = 4.30:1 4-pinion 8.0" pre-89 N/A Diff (no-LSD, USA Only)
G282 = 4.30:1 2-pinion 8.0" 89+ N/A Diff (no-LSD, USA Only)
G285 = 4.30:1 4-pinion 8.0" N/A Diff (with-LSD)
G315 = 3.91:1 4-pinion 8.0" pre-89 Turbo Diff (with-LSD)
G305 = 3.73:1 4-pinion 8.0" 89+ Turbo Diff (with-LSD)

Also, you can use the same generation 4runner/Toyota Pickup ring and pinion (They usually have more ratios available).

I can't find anything as tall as 3.31, the tallest I know of is 3.58 from these guys:
(Under "Supra 1986.5-92- ALL")

http://www.weirperformance.com/finaldrivegears.html
 
Yeeeeeeah, that's what I found (and from what I have seen so far it's true:



Also, you can use the same generation 4runner/Toyota Pickup ring and pinion (They usually have more ratios available).

I can't find anything as tall as 3.31, the tallest I know of is 3.58 from these guys:
(Under "Supra 1986.5-92- ALL")

http://www.weirperformance.com/finaldrivegears.html

Maybe I could fit a 1999-2004 Ford Mustang Cobra diif?
 
Maybe I could fit a 1999-2004 Ford Mustang Cobra diif?

Yeah, I guess.
I wonder what is the bolt pattern of the output shafts of this diff.
(The adaptors have the two most common bolt patterns).

But I'm pretty sure you could easely modify the subframe.

If you want to go full retard, and I'm thinking about it, you could use the original subframe to create a negative jig (in order to have all the anchor points etc.) and make a subframe in square tubes (in wich you could put whatever diff you want).

This is a toiletta diff in a Merkur:

beam_and_diff01.JPG



I know it's a bit of work, but it's a pretty cheap solution and you can keep the original Volvo geometry and you have a baseline of shock/springs combo that was made for the car.
 
Yeah, I guess.
I wonder what is the bolt pattern of the output shafts of this diff.
(The adaptors have the two most common bolt patterns).

But I'm pretty sure you could easely modify the subframe.

If you want to go full retard, and I'm thinking about it, you could use the original subframe to create a negative jig (in order to have all the anchor points etc.) and make a subframe in square tubes (in wich you could put whatever diff you want).

This is a toiletta diff in a Merkur:

beam_and_diff01.JPG



I know it's a bit of work, but it's a pretty cheap solution and you can keep the original Volvo geometry and you have a baseline of shock/springs combo that was made for the car.

But what about the diff that's already in the 960's pumpkin? This is going to be a track car, not a drag car.

Do you know if the 1041 and 1045 diffs share the same innards?
 
But what about the diff that's already in the 960's pumpkin? This is going to be a track car, not a drag car.

Do you know if the 1041 and 1045 diffs share the same innards?

Well, what I can say for sure is that I took the ring and pinion of a 1041 (4.10) and put it in a 1045 with the locker.

So I would say yes, it's the same stuff inside.
 
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