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Uncleknucklez 242 road ripper

This is inspiring. I'm so ready to get rid of LH.
Do eet, no reason not too, I will even send you my tune if you can use it as a baseline of sorts.


Nice progress here. Tuning is always fun once you get "stuck in" and comfortable with what's going on. Enjoy the process!

It's a rabbit hole for sure, I watched a lot of youtube videos on tuning, They are almost exclusively for Miata, so the translation is odd, but the principles apply.
 
Small update, I threw a bunch more timing at the ign map, really woke the car up, also had a few pings, so I have been tuning the fuel map to match. Slowly but surely. Car fires right up every morning, and the cold starts are much better.

This weekend I installed my Kap Hybrid torque rods #bnecomfort

If you drive your 240 daily I HIGHLY recommend them. Smooooth vibes.

However, they are a touch long for guys who have shortened their trailing arms, and I wished the internal threads were deeper in the arm so we could use them with a lock washer or something to take another 1/4" out of the length. As of now I bottomed them out and shimmed up my trans to make the angles work.

JnsjHBGl.jpg


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I did the other side too, It's just hard to photograph because of the exhaust :lol:
 
Your car is too clean.

:cool:

Thanks Carl!

I have a couple other recent pics for the thread

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2LLlnd7l.jpg


aR7Ph5Wl.jpg
 
This weekend I installed my Kap Hybrid torque rods #bnecomfort If you drive your 240 daily I HIGHLY recommend them. Smooooth vibes.

JnsjHBGl.jpg

Definitely on my shopping list. I see they're offered with the Meyle bushings or the Volvo bushings for $80 more :omg:. Of course Genuine Volvo bushings would be more, but could they we worth $80 more for two? Curious is anyone is actually opting for the more expensive bushings.
Dave
 
Definitely on my shopping list. I see they're offered with the Meyle bushings or the Volvo bushings for $80 more :omg:. Of course Genuine Volvo bushings would be more, but could they we worth $80 more for two? Curious is anyone is actually opting for the more expensive bushings.
Dave

I spent a ton of time going back and forth, AND trying to decide if having all of the flex and shock going into one bushing would be to it's detriment (I was working under the assumption that the stock rods having rubber on both ends splits the shock between both bushings).

I took a gamble and went with the Meyle bushings, What could be cool for this application is some poly "inserts" or something that could take up the void in the rubber, and pottentially take up some of that area and help save the bushing.

I will say that the rear of the car has tons more grip, it doesn't groan and creak driving in and out of my driveway, and generally doesn't feel like a drift car anymore. I like 'em. :oogle:

oh... AND the T5 rattles are no longer being transferred through the rear end to the back seat area and has reduced that noise dramatically.
 
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Without more info, I would assume the Meyle's are just fine. Maybe he's offering Volvo ones for certain picky people who are allergic to aftermarket bushings? That's my guess. I'm pretty sure he would not offer substandard bushings on such a nice product.
 
Without more info, I would assume the Meyle's are just fine. Maybe he's offering Volvo ones for certain picky people who are allergic to aftermarket bushings? That's my guess. I'm pretty sure he would not offer substandard bushings on such a nice product.

Agreed, I am not allergic to anything, so Meyle it is.
 
Nice TQ-rods. Good to hear about the positive influence on comfort and grip. I like the idea of rubber bushings instead of poly. Maybe I'll do that with my (home brew) hybrid set too. The spherical bearing at the chassis side is also nice, keeps it much cleaner. Good stuff!
 
Definitely nice to hear the tune is coming along as well. I'd be curious to see what you have for a map on it at this point compared to what we've played with on Ryan's car...
 
Definitely nice to hear the tune is coming along as well. I'd be curious to see what you have for a map on it at this point compared to what we've played with on Ryan's car...

Take a look at where I'm at, I have done some pretty wide swings with ign timing trying to find a little det and then back it down, The car scoots pretty good with these numbers and not a hint of detonation after I reduced timing a couple degrees up top.

For the record, I did start with some pretty decent maps, and comparing them to what is floating around on here, and the link you sent with the stock ign maps I arrived at these numbers.

Specs:
B230FT
IPD Cam advanced a couple degrees as I recall
Ford Motorsports 39lb/hr Cobra injectors
16T running 17-18 PSI
3" turbo back, single muffler
 

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Without more info, I would assume the Meyle's are just fine. Maybe he's offering Volvo ones for certain picky people who are allergic to aftermarket bushings? That's my guess. I'm pretty sure he would not offer substandard bushings on such a nice product.

I... I got the Volvo bushings. :-P
 
I'd recommend dropping that timing a bit in boost or tweak your timing retard based on temp. We're on winter gas and cold temps, pretty sure you're going to get a bit of detonation at those levels on summer pump. Low load, add a little more in honestly. You saw the EZK map I've got, that seems to be running pretty well, with a little better mileage and response as well. 50kpa and up, give it another 2-3 degrees.

Looks good otherwise!
 
yea thats alot of timing in boost. no reason to run that much when the engine isnt efficient enough to support that amount, im willing to bet you can pull between 6-8 degrees of timing out of it and you wont loose any power
 
I'd recommend dropping that timing a bit in boost or tweak your timing retard based on temp. We're on winter gas and cold temps, pretty sure you're going to get a bit of detonation at those levels on summer pump. Low load, add a little more in honestly. You saw the EZK map I've got, that seems to be running pretty well, with a little better mileage and response as well. 50kpa and up, give it another 2-3 degrees.

Looks good otherwise!

yea thats alot of timing in boost. no reason to run that much when the engine isnt efficient enough to support that amount, im willing to bet you can pull between 6-8 degrees of timing out of it and you wont loose any power

I will revisit my advance table and take those suggestions into consideration. Thanks gents.

Really my goal is to make 17-18 psi and beat on it everyday, So I am ok with a little more conservative spark table.
 
I actually found on mine, same boost level, I had better response with a little less timing as well, still ripped when you got on it, spooled up a bit faster, with a very minimal different in power on the butt dyno. Even on EZK, dropping a degree or two on the transition really picked up the spool but at that level you can feel the power difference.
 
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