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Relatively stranded 1,000 miles from home

bobxyz said:
Here's another simple idea - after releasing the gas cap pressure/vacuum, could you restart the engine and run normally?
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It would start and idle for a few seconds then stutter and stall even with the cap loosened. Time to get some Buffalo Wild Wings while it cools down. I think the idea of me putting ice on the gas tank really helped.
 
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Your intank is dead and this will keep happening until you un-dead-ify it. This may not be replacing the pump. It could be wiring, it could be crustiness in the pick up tubing.
 
amerbritcan said:
Your intank is dead and this will keep happening until you un-dead-ify it. This may not be replacing the pump. It could be wiring, it could be crustiness in the pick up tubing.
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I will replace it or fix the wiring when I get the chance. That will be when I get home. If it keeps dying it will be towed.
 
Ground screw seemed free if corrosion, however the wire and it's sheathing were bent and pushed against the car. I don't know if the wire split or anything So I'll need to connect 12v directly to it to see if it kicks on.
 
Here's some of my crazy reasons as to what I think is happening.

-Main pump being the only pump, it's getting too hot and vaporizing the fuel after awhile.
-High altitude equates to a lower evaporative point of gasoline
-Fuel rail gets heat soaked after a while and vaporizes fuel
-Something different about the fuels up here? Anything to do with the amount of ethanol?

I'm wondering if there's anything I can add to the fuel to make it not vaporize until I get the chance to replace the pump.
 
TestPoint said:
I thought that vapor lock went away with carburetors.
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The reason you thought that is because enough pressure is created by working fuel pumps in fuel injected cars. It is maintained by a check valve when you shut the car off hot. But without the working fuel pump in the tank, the warm fuel boils again.

This odyssey would have a happy resolution if only OP could get to an auto parts store and find a way to loosen and replace the locking ring on the tank sender.
 
Yeah, I just knocked the bung out with a screwdriver when I put the DW300 in mine. You have to take out the rear cargo deck (just a few screws here and there and it lifts out). Then there's a little access hatch. There's not a lot of room to work with, but it's doable. Unfortunately, the fuel sender unit is a bit recessed on the top of the tank, in a very isolated area of the car, so on cars used in salt belt states (like MO) it's almost certainly going to be crusty as hell.

On mine a little work with a hammer and a long screwdriver got the bung ring loosened and off, then I used a shop vac to suck up the half pound (only slightly exaggerated) of rust and dirt crap sitting on top of the sender, before i pulled it out. Otherwise that dirt and crap would have fallen into the tank.
 
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