Myles has been helping me a bit, nice guy he is.
I see two coolant temp sensors on the b230 block, but only one listed in the wiring? The fuel temp sensor is broken, new one is inbound.
You need the single blue top coolant temp sensor, the other one with a yellowtop I believe is for the coolant temp gauge. I'm not sure what a fuel temp sensor is. The Kjet B21 should have an additional coolant timed switch that you can simply leave in the block. Don't forget the knock sensor.
The routing of the stock harness seems chaotic, anything I can do to clean it up some? I'm worried that I won't have it routed properly.
The stock Kjet engine harness will have to be completely removed. Through the fire wall and if you want to clean it up behind the dash as well. Other than that stock routing for the LH harness will work fine. You may need to open up the harness hole in the passenger side firewall a bit but the big ECU connector should fit through ok.
What should I use to re-cover the stock harness? I was thinking of going to an electrical store and ask what they'd reccommend for an engine wiring harness.
I used heatshrink where it would fit over connectors and electrical tape over other areas. This was not an issue for me because my LH harness came from an '88.
People talk about separating the ignition harness to eventually switch to EZK, but from what I can see the ignition harness is already entirely separate. Also the ign. harness wires are pretty stiff. The harness coating flaked off, as you can see. What should I use to prevent this in the future?
It is separate, but what they mean is to remove the harness from the outer sheathing so individual wires can be seen and if neccesary removed. I have not switched to EZK so I don't know what else. And since I used a late model 2.2 harness, my wires were supple so it did not become an issue. I would look around for a late model harness if possible, or at least do some multimeter testing in case there are breaks under the sheathing.
I tried to pull the injectors out of the intake mani and the rail out of the injectors (removed the clips too) and they didn't want to come out. Any reason to pull them out, or just leave them be?
It would be best if everything could be removed at a later date but you should be able to swap it all in one. You're going to need fuel injection hose and clamps to mate the late model fuel rail to an early model fuel supply.
What's the best way to clean the intake mani and t body? What about cleaning the amm?
Best way to clean them is to have them apart, shoot with TB cleaner and wipe until clean. I don't normally touch the AMM, just the screen on it.
When the engine was still in the car I tried starting it but it wouldn't fire. The chassis was missing a couple relays by the batt and the alternator was pulled, maybe that's why it didn't fire. Cranked over just fine.
Do I need to swap distributors or can I use my kjet one on my b21?
Depends on which dizzy you had. I had the huge Chrysler white cap so I swapped to the LH one.