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Evil Penguin Wagon

To get the 4" down pipe to clear the radiator I had to move the turbo further back, I really didn't want to start beating dents into the body but in the end I did it to clear the compressor cover.



I still ended up having to trim the core support for the radiator and headlight supports to gain an extra inch of clearance between the downpipe and the radiator, but now there should be adequate clearance for two 12" SPAL Fans.

So I temporarily welded the flange in position and started working on the hot side routing, but I am still not 100% sure it was the best solution.







 
I anticipate some people will not approve of this solution.





Once I get the hot side finalized, I will clean up the rough edges then plate in the front & back holes in the frame rail and add a bolted (removable) in plate on the outside wall. The shock / spring thing that normally supports the bumper will also have to be modified...

Certainly not a very elegant solution, but I couldn't think of any better way using typical sch 10 stainless weld elbows.

 
The merge is going to be sort of ugly, but at the moment I don't have any practical way to form a better version. After welding I plan to smooth out the transition from pipe to flange, but other than that it is going to be fairly crude.


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I'm not sure if pvc is really the best method to mock up the hot side, but it is pretty fast, and the OD is the same as sch 10 stainless, so it should work ok. Don't ask me why I used primer… brain fade...





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I had the flange on the passenger side indexed a bit off, so those tacks will need to be broken off and realigned before welding. I may hold off and weld them last to compensate for pull in the other end… I don't have enough practice at tig on stainless to predict how it will pull, so the oversize hole in the flange will probably be useful. Overall I am pretty happy with the layout of the hot side so far. Since it has a divided turbine housing I am going to run two 38mm Tial waste gates, not sure where they will end up yet.
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nah man, there's a build/project subforum under showroom. Yours certainly looks no worse than any of mine. Those dekas work great with ms3, that's what I've got in my L33 turbo setup.

good work, where is cypress?
 
nah man, there's a build/project subforum under showroom. Yours certainly looks no worse than any of mine. Those dekas work great with ms3, that's what I've got in my L33 turbo setup.

good work, where is cypress?

When I broke the big block in my ford, and put the LM7 with a carb it really was underpowered. So I stole the MS3 gold & deka injectors from the wagon and used a HX55 and put it all together as a "test"

I figured it would be better learn how to tune it on the old LM7, so if I made a mistake it wouldn't be as expensive. Cypress is on the northwest side of Houston



This setup made 480 rwhp on 11.5 psi with 11 degrees of timing (87 octane) with just room temp water in the intercooler
 
Cool build!
I wouldn't delete the ls1tech thread. I found in my build that sometimes you can gather info from both places. The LS stuff I usually searched there, the Volvo stuff I searched here and there are guys like Linuxman that are pretty sharp in both areas! He can bait em in with the turbo ls car and then thump em good with the purebred Volvo!
 
Since the clearance for the hot side is tight in a few spots, I decided to reinstall the transmission before going any further. I originally had a newer model 80e installed, but decided to use an older one I have that has a Jake's D1 brake, and some other upgrade parts? including a billet Circle D converter that cost more that the rest of the car :-(




The stock L33 / LM7 flex plate from a 4L60E, 4L65E, etc will not work with most 4L80e torque converters. The ring gear and converter bolts are in the right position, but the snout on the converter won't stick out far enough to engage the pilot hole in the back of the crankshaft. You could assemble it this way but the converter won't be centered right and would probably shake or eat the pump bushings in the transmission. A 4L80e specific flex plate with a spacer is required.

The incorrect flexplate:
 
I also got a nice Griffin (Made in USA) 27 x 19 x 3 dual pass radiator with the bigger heat exchanger off eBay for $150 shipped, but when it showed up the build sticker on it shows 2006 … it looks like it was never installed, and is basically in perfect condition, hopefully it doesn't turn out to be a reject…



I chopped off 1" of the radiator support and the radiator fits pretty well. I haven't decided on what fans to use yet, I would like to use the one off the Lincoln Mark VIII but I am not sure if it will fit with a 4" down pipe or not.

 
After searching for months for a decent used Made in USA transmission jack, I broke down and bought a cheap one from Northern Tool… that of course leaked immediately and was apparently built incorrectly with a check ball missing so it wouldn't lift… Punishment for buying a knock off of the original I suppose ... So I had to drive 40 miles to a different Northern Tool location and exchange it… the second one works, so I am about ready find out how much more transmission tunnel cutting will be required to clear the cooler lines on the "early" version of the 4l80e.



But that may have to wait… I grew up in northern MN and I can't take the combination of 80+% humidity and 90+ temps any more, I'm going to take a week or two off of car stuff and put a A/C unit in my new garage.




I had a 1.5 ton mini split in my l old garage and it was awesome, but they are almost all knock offs made in china now so this time I am going to put in a 2 ton central unit in the attic. Since Goodman is building an enormous factory about 15 miles from my house and Carrier is moving to Mexico it made my choice a lot easier.
 
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Are you aware of the several Volvo groups in Houston? We get together for various small and big events. There is a meet/Dyno day this Saturday. Let me know if you want to be added.

Nice build.
 
Are you aware of the several Volvo groups in Houston? We get together for various small and big events. There is a meet/Dyno day this Saturday. Let me know if you want to be added.

Nice build.

Sure. Eventually I am going to need tail light lenses, trim parts, etc so it would be good to meet so local people with Volvo connections. Where & when?
 
Sure. Eventually I am going to need tail light lenses, trim parts, etc so it would be good to meet so local people with Volvo connections. Where & when?

The groups are on Facebook, if you have it. If so PM me your name and I can request to add you. The dyno/meet is on July 2nd at Eurocharged Performance on 2121 Brittmore 77043 starting around 9 AM.
 
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