Duder (CFlo's) Pea Green 1975 245 DL - Survivor Wagon

NO_SPRK said:

holy smokes. cant believe all this volvo stuff is happening in rosa! love the green. good job bringing home more junk luke!

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Yeah I had plans for it but didnt really do anything with it in a year, I know Chris was looking for one so time to let it go.

Nice, even came with IPD sways!

Once you get it all cleaned up how you want, start watching for some of the euro 8" headlights/bezels. Would be a cool subtle addition to this original car.

Dammit westerners!
That car would be powder out east.
Nice work!

Score, best color ever for an older 245...

Nice survivor thanks for saving this one!

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Also your door trim stick is showing that it's delivered.

December 10, 2016 , 4:16 pm Delivered, In/At Mailbox

Buy oem trim clips, aftermarket ones suck.

Great looking car.

122power said:

Nice write up dude! Glad its getting the love it needs. Had fun at the track running around you guys, or you running around us I should say.
When I followed the guy out to where it was at I was like, "this is in the middle of nowhere." Yeah the bee nests were interesting. That car next to it had a big one in it as well. Man that car looks rough seeing it in the old photos, but its a gem for sure. I may have some other pics to post.

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Word - that race was fun indeed. Looked like the Amazon performed pretty well after the repairs. The trip out to get this green car must have been interesting. Please do post any other photos you have!

NO_SPRK said:

holy smokes. cant believe all this volvo stuff is happening in rosa! love the green. good job bringing home more junk luke!

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MoCounselor said:

Dude, I am LOVING this thread so far! Way to keep a classic alive!

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The response to this thread has been surprising - I'm just telling it as it happened, but thanks!

Tuff240 said:

Nice, even came with IPD sways!

Once you get it all cleaned up how you want, start watching for some of the euro 8" headlights/bezels. Would be a cool subtle addition to this original car.

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Yeah someone in the past put some money into keeping this car alive and upgrading a bit. I was thinking about those 8" headlights after seeing some old brochures actually! Feel free to tip me off if you come across any...

apachechef said:

Dammit westerners!
That car would be powder out east.
Nice work!

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It's got a bit of rust bubbling around the window rubber where all the old cars have issues. So far no cancer except the battery tray which is par for the course. Come out west and buy some old steel!

Mueller said:

Score, best color ever for an older 245...

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I've always dug the orange and yellow 70s colors too but the green just has that certain je ne sais quoi factor.

Redwood Chair said:

Nice survivor thanks for saving this one!

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Also your door trim stick is showing that it's delivered.

December 10, 2016 , 4:16 pm Delivered, In/At Mailbox

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Yep, the trim stick showed up intact in its custom redwood packaging - very clever! It will go on the car as soon as I get some clips...

Tuff240 said:

Buy oem trim clips, aftermarket ones suck.

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I used OE clips on my 242 and can confirm they work well. Now to order s'more.

Canuck said:

Great looking car.

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Thank you sir! I'm watching your new thread about your Amazon with keen interest too.

So I finished the cam gear repair yesterday and got the car running again. The oil pan looked clean from the front with the timing cover off, but I drained the oil and poked a finger in the drain hole and found more...so I spent about an hour spraying various solvents into the pan to wash the debris down to the bottom, then fishing it out with a custom hook fashioned from a stick of welding rod. Paper towels picked up the rest of the smaller bits, or most of them anyway. Ian told me not to worry much about the fiber so I didn't pull the pan, but I wanted to remove as much of it as I could. Will probably do another oil change soon to drain out whatever is now caught in suspension in the oil.

Got the pan gasket scraped off and cut at the front edge, in preparation for gluing in a portion of a new gasket. I used Permatex Ultra Black sealant. The brass thrust plate behind the cam gear was not only badly worn, but both of the mounting ears were broken, presumably a result of the gear failure...




Special pusher tool to install the new gear. I used a screw into the end of the crank as a lever point to align the crank with a long screwdriver so that the cam gear would twist on in the right orientation. You have to set the crank counterclockwise a bit so that the helical teeth of the cam gear rotate it back to 12:00 position with the marks aligned, as the cam gear is being pressed on. Good used steel thrust plate installed behind the new/used gear.




One of the teeth visible in the front shallow area of the pan




I set the ignition timing approximately where it was before; couldn't find an inductive timing light in the shop so I'm not sure exactly what the base timing is. But it ran well on the short drive. Parked in front of our house in preparation for the 3rd Annual Comfypantsa Palooza, formerly Sweatpants-a-palooza / white elephant gift exchange / beer tasting party.




I scored this nice pewter 1800 from Eric at Hi Performance Auto and gave it as my white elephant gift, wrapped in a small box from Citroen WRC

My wife stole the 1800 from Karl during her round so it's staying here I guess!

How cool, love the story! Those early cars are quite interesting, very different from my 79!

Nice... Suspect the M41 came from a 140 or an 1800, due to the 1972-74 shift knob, instead of the 240 mushroom knob with the slide switch. If you want to keep the old style knob (or switch to one of those old school leather knobs with the "VOLVO" badge in the middle), find a 140 or 164 overdrive stalk and mount that to the column somehow. Then, you can free up a switch space on the center console.

Next time you have the block open, switch to a D cam, instead of the K cam. That'll give you an extra 8-10 hp. Probably could also advance the timing a little. Points ignition B20F engines usually ran 10 deg BTDC, instead of 5 deg BTDC. Granted, the D-Jet cars usually had a vacuum retard, and the K-Jet 1974 cars had no vacuum.

-J

brendon_ak said:

How cool, love the story! Those early cars are quite interesting, very different from my 79!

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Glad it was an enjoyable read. Yeah I'm thinking about documenting all the weird early features in this '75. Either one-year-only stuff or features that went away or changed within the next year or two. Looks like it only shares a few common parts with my '84 wagon - everything is familiar, but different in some subtle way. Definitely more of a vintage feel to this car.

Blue245Ti said:

Nice... Suspect the M41 came from a 140 or an 1800, due to the 1972-74 shift knob, instead of the 240 mushroom knob with the slide switch. If you want to keep the old style knob (or switch to one of those old school leather knobs with the "VOLVO" badge in the middle), find a 140 or 164 overdrive stalk and mount that to the column somehow. Then, you can free up a switch space on the center console.

Next time you have the block open, switch to a D cam, instead of the K cam. That'll give you an extra 8-10 hp. Probably could also advance the timing a little. Points ignition B20F engines usually ran 10 deg BTDC, instead of 5 deg BTDC. Granted, the D-Jet cars usually had a vacuum retard, and the K-Jet 1974 cars had no vacuum.

-J

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Cool; I appreciate the tips. I didn't think about the cam at all but will look into it. It would be neat to hop up the B20 in a few ways that don't ruin the overall feel of the car, cam and valvetrain being in that category I think. This K-jet car does have a vacuum diaphragm on the distributor but I'm not sure if it's a retard or advance device. I'll check timing and try out 10 degrees. I had the same thought about the older square shift knob but I do like it and it does seem to suit the car. Column stalk switch for the overdrive would be neat; our old '66 1800S had that and it was fun in a "3 on the tree" kind of way. Less of a reach from the steering wheel too.

Duder said:

Glad it was an enjoyable read. Yeah I'm thinking about documenting all the weird early features in this '75. Either one-year-only stuff or features that went away or changed within the next year or two. Looks like it only shares a few common parts with my '84 wagon - everything is familiar, but different in some subtle way. Definitely more of a vintage feel to this car.

Cool; I appreciate the tips. I didn't think about the cam at all but will look into it. It would be neat to hop up the B20 in a few ways that don't ruin the overall feel of the car, cam and valvetrain being in that category I think. This K-jet car does have a vacuum diaphragm on the distributor but I'm not sure if it's a retard or advance device. I'll check timing and try out 10 degrees. I had the same thought about the older square shift knob but I do like it and it does seem to suit the car. Column stalk switch for the overdrive would be neat; our old '66 1800S had that and it was fun in a "3 on the tree" kind of way. Less of a reach from the steering wheel too.

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Not a problem. The 1975 dizzy has vacuum advance. If it pings under load, set to 10, then you might need to either disconnect/plug the advance, or retard it just enough so it doesn't ping, but still seems more lively than stock.

With respect to the difference between the 1975 and the 1984, yeah, the '75 is going to be much more like a 145E. It still has the 240 suspension and floor pans, but it'll have the 140 feel, along with the 140 sounds...

Yeah, I thought about modifying a 245 wiper stalk to act as a secondary OD switch in my 242. Hit the button on the end of the stalk, or hit the button in the knob, depending on which is easier. That said, I may be downdating the car a bit so I have both my 242 and my 245 matching, overdrive setup-wise. Installed the 1975-80 setup on the 245Ti.

-J

Blue245Ti said:

Not a problem. The 1975 dizzy has vacuum advance. If it pings under load, set to 10, then you might need to either disconnect/plug the advance, or retard it just enough so it doesn't ping, but still seems more lively than stock.

With respect to the difference between the 1975 and the 1984, yeah, the '75 is going to be much more like a 145E. It still has the 240 suspension and floor pans, but it'll have the 140 feel, along with the 140 sounds...

Yeah, I thought about modifying a 245 wiper stalk to act as a secondary OD switch in my 242. Hit the button on the end of the stalk, or hit the button in the knob, depending on which is easier. That said, I may be downdating the car a bit so I have both my 242 and my 245 matching, overdrive setup-wise. Installed the 1975-80 setup on the 245Ti.

-J

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I checked timing last night and found it was at around 8 deg BTDC based on my wild guess, so I set it to 12 deg, and it seems happy and more powerful. The 2-wire connector for the Bosch breakerless system runs up hard against the block at that position however. I pulled the distributor again and found that the drive gear was installed one tooth off. Tried to pull it out with pliers but it wouldn't budge. So at some point I need to re-clock that drive gear so I can set timing in a way that doesn't put any stress on that connector.

The engine in your car isn't the original one. At some point Volvo changed the angle at which the distributor drive gear was to be installed. It's entirely possible that the distributor gear was installed that way from the factory.

Volvo, being frugal, used the same picture despite the revised angle.



Try pulling the gear with the engine warm. The gunk build up on the drive gear shaft under the bushing is preventing the gear from coming out and it'll be softer with a warm engine. When they're really stuck, I've wrapped SS safety wire around the shaft a few times under the gear and then pulled up using a handle of some sort. Spraying carb cleaner down the hole might help loosen the crud, but you'll need to change the oil if you do that.

Thanks for the tips! I did find that same picture in an earlier thread you'd posted in, and compared to what I was seeing. Below is my engine. I think it's off by one tooth in the clockwise direction, which correlates with the 2-wire connector ramming the block with the distributor turned clockwise to get it advanced as far as possible.

I'll try your methods for gear removal sometime in the next few days. I haven't had a chance to replace my broken valve spring yet but I could drop by your shop tomorrow to return the cam gear tools.

75 b20 breaker less is vacuum retard

car is looking great

I have the same MIG clock

hiperfauto said:

Try pulling the gear with the engine warm. The gunk build up on the drive gear shaft under the bushing is preventing the gear from coming out and it'll be softer with a warm engine. When they're really stuck, I've wrapped SS safety wire around the shaft a few times under the gear and then pulled up using a handle of some sort.

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Or hook it with a bicycle spoke end.

Duder said:

Thanks for the tips! I did find that same picture in an earlier thread you'd posted in, and compared to what I was seeing. Below is my engine. I think it's off by one tooth in the clockwise direction, which correlates with the 2-wire connector ramming the block with the distributor turned clockwise to get it advanced as far as possible.

I'll try your methods for gear removal sometime in the next few days. I haven't had a chance to replace my broken valve spring yet but I could drop by your shop tomorrow to return the cam gear tools.

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You don't need to make a special trip, just bring back the tools when you're done. They're duplicates so I won't miss them if you keep them a while longer.