• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

T5 bits

Snoop Dougy Doug said:
Dave, I had the same problem when I first did mine. I did notch the bellhousing, to no avail.

Did you get the TO bearing adapters from JP? Same as Noahs?

Are you SURE you have the same TO bearing that noah did?
Click to expand...


Yes, same TO bearing adapters (see below) and a standard genuine Ford TO bearing for an 86-93 (I think those are the years) Mustang 5.0.

Volvo_fork_wFord_TO002-lo-res.JPG

T5-trans032704-003-lo-res.JPG

040104-005-lo-res.JPG

T5-trans032704-001-lo-res.JPG
 

Attachments

  • Volvo_fork_wFord_TO002.JPG
    Volvo_fork_wFord_TO002.JPG
    89.7 KB · Views: 1
  • T5-trans032704-003-lo-res.JPG
    T5-trans032704-003-lo-res.JPG
    22.4 KB · Views: 0
  • 040104-005-lo-res.JPG
    040104-005-lo-res.JPG
    35.3 KB · Views: 1
  • T5-trans032704-001-lo-res.JPG
    T5-trans032704-001-lo-res.JPG
    18 KB · Views: 1
Last edited:
Dave,
My fork looked exactly like yours. It was really tight and would bottom out on the rubber dust boot before the pedal was to the floor. Cutting the front of the boot off seemed to do the trick though, but still the fork was about 1/4" away from hitting the bellhousing when somebody sat in the car and pushed the pedal down... So its still pretty close, but works perfectly.

Maybe you could notch out the bellhousing while its still on the car with a dremel or something (Just to be on the safe side)
 
Thanks Noah,
I really appreciate it. I guess I'll leave it in and wait until it is running and keep my fingers crossed. Part of the problem is that I have never owned a manual trans Volvo before, so how things go together and how they should look are new things for me.
Dave B.
 
One thing I noticed:

Dave, you and I are both running ClutchNet pressureplates, Noah isn't. Perhaps the throw is different on the ClutchNet ones?

I used a cutoff wheel the first time, makes short buisness out of the aluminum on a bellhousing.

Dave... I thought I was anal when I beadblasted my bellhousing... lol took me a while to realize that it wasn't my eyes, yours is WHITE!
 
Snoop Dougy Doug said:
Dave... I thought I was anal when I beadblasted my bellhousing... lol took me a while to realize that it wasn't my eyes, yours is WHITE!
Click to expand...

Actually it's gray powdercoat. The flash makes it look white.
Dave
 
Got the 245 running tonight and took it around the block. It needs more tuning for the EMS before doing more, but the T5 seems to run fine. A little tight... maybe because it's new... and it crunches some going into reverse. I've got some rattles I need to find that sound like they're coming from the trans tunnel area.
Dave B.
 
Hey dave, Although mine doesn't grind at all, I've been told by numerous people you gotta slide it through 1st and 2nd before going into reverse. Try it out.
Hows the speedo cable mod doing? ; )
 
Speedo cable works great. I haven't really checked the speedo for accuracy yet, but it's at least close for now.
Dave B.
 
Based on my (and others) experiences, I strongly recommend extending the pivot ball about 1 inch from the bell housing (1 inch more than it is now). This should satisfactorily reduce the tendancy for the fork to get too close to (or hit) the housing when the clutch is disengaged. Doug and Noah... any comment.. agree or disagree?

I have cut away the rubber boot to allow full travel. With the boot still installed I could not get enough fork travel. Now my fork hits the bell housing at about the same time my pedal hits the floor.
Dave B.
 
Problem with T-5Z conversion

I was doing a bench assembly today with the adapter plate that I got from Vintage Volvo performance, and I ran into a problem. the transmission I have has a steel front bearing retainer. The round piece from the kit that has the cut outs for the bearing retainer bolts had a clearance problem with the bolts. When the round piece was placed in position, the retainer bolts were sticking out about 3/16th of an inch. The bolts had lock washers so I removed those but there was still about a 1/16th of an inch of the bolt heads sticking out. This caused the volvo bellhousing not to mate up flush with the adapter. I ended up filing enough material off the heads so that they set below the surface of the round piece. The bellhousing now bolts into the correct position. The only reason for this that I can think of is because of the steel bearing retainer. I just wanted to post and urge anyone doing this conversion to check to make sure the bolts are recessed at least slightly below the round piece. Since I haven't spoken to John directly, I suppose these could be the bolts he talks about shortening. Anyway, I'm back on track for my B23FT +T-5z installation.
Now all I have to worry about is if the 2.95 first gear is too tall. I want to put a LSD in eventually, so if I have to I can lower the rearend ratio then.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top