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Chuck's '85 244TIC

Did you replace your fuel pump check valve?

No idea what you are talking about....:oops:

EDIT-
I did some digging on the FP check valve. I'm assuming you are mentioning that in reference to my "soft" start issue?

How long should the system stay pressurized? I've read that the K-Jet system does not prime the system before start (although I think I have heard it do so once or twice, but it could be something else). When running, the fp gauge under the hood reads 80psi, but when the car is shut off it drops to 40-50psi pretty quickly and kind of holds 40psi for a while. After a few hours though it all us bled off.
 
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A little more work today...

I don't suppose these were doing anything useful...
swaybar%20bushings.JPG


Luckily I had a box of these...
ipdbushings.JPG


I also replaced the bushing in the endlinks while I was in there. The annoying rattle I had on the front is now gone. Imagine that. ;-)

Next I replaced the fuel pump check valve. My other thread lead to a conclusion that it might not be the culprit, but it was already ordered and on the way at that time, so to take that out of the equation, in it went. I don't thing there was much change.

The car is running pretty well after sorting out the issue with the in-tank FP fuse. No hesitations on acceleration now, just some surging and such during cruise. Nothing major though.
 
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Very sweet looking car man. I dig the wheels also and have been thinking about doing the same on my car with some mustang saleen 17x9's.
Where'd you get the adapters?
 
The adapters came from ebay from a place in Calif. The seller mcmotorsportsoutlet.

The only thing I don't like is that they aren't hub-centric to the wheel, but for this car's usage they're fine for now.
 
Well I have mainly been just driving it lately, but over the weekend I took care of one of the issues....

shocks.JPG


I think it still had a few miles left in it...In mean not ALL of the oil had leaked out yet. :-P

I also took a coil off the rear springs to lower the rear down a bit since I hadn't yet after I did the fronts a couple months ago.

The new rear shocks really improved the manners of the car. I guess considering how bad the ones that were in there were, it would almost have to improve.

I still need to do a little more massaging of the rear fenders to clear the tires, but it's pretty close now. The stiffer shock have helped cut down on the little bit of rubbing I was getting prior.
 
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OK, well I've just been driving this thing pretty much daily and haven't spent too much time working on it.
There are a couple projects I need to tackle before winter, but today I took care of part of another I have been wanting to do.

The motor mounts in this thing have bugged me since day one, mainly because I manufacture performance mounts for some other cars, the sloppiness of the stockers bug me. I haven't has time to come up with a "new" bracket design yet and things hadn't looked good for that yet. I stuck a ratchetstrap on it a week or so ago and it was doing "ok", but still not to my liking.

I decided to come up with an interim solution until I got the other stuff done, so as to not deal with the stock mounts any longer.

So I had this pile of parts...
pileoparts.JPG


And decided to make these...
drivermount.JPG

pasmount.JPG


I had some of my poly isolators and stainless hardware sitting around and looking at the lot of it the other day, just decided to stick these together and see what happened, even though they wouldn't be "ideal".

The isolators are a dual durometer (70A/45A). I just enlarged the proper holes on the brackets for the 1/2" bolts and put it together.

The engine pretty much does NOT move now, save for just a tiny bit, but the vibrations are possibly going to be tedious. I've used poly mounts in my TBird for years, so I'm used to some. I didn't expect them to be silky smooth though.
I think the major issue is the way the stock brackets are angled and putting the bushings in shear a bit and less in compression as I normally use these isolators for.
I may try and get some all 45A isolators with my next bushing order just for the time being. I have a couple other ideas though which would probably work better.
 
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Yeah well, these are only temporary. I need to talk to my bushing manf about a couple ideas I have for replacement ones.

I just spent most of yesterday finishing up welding on more Ford ones...
 
Well I haven't done too much lately other than work on getting parts together for various projects on the car (and deal with brake system issues).

I took the time today to powder coat a couple parts for eventual use on the car.

I cleaned up a B23T intake and a cold side for the .60/.63 turbo I'm planning on swapping.

PC-parts.JPG


PC_intake.JPG


These are the first non-motormount parts I've coated. A couple blems aside I think they turned out ok.
 
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I've got a pile of parts waiting to do some work to the cooling system, but I just haven't had enough cooperative weather to feel like dealing with it yet.

I did get more parts coated though.

Coated_1.jpg


Coated_2.jpg
 
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OK, well I've been working the past couple days on the cooling system stuff. I had a slight leak at the water pump and I wanted to get an e-fan installed.

In taking things apart, I found a rad hose that was about to come apart, so luckily I found that before it gave up. Ordered that and worked on other stuff.

One of the other projects in this round was to replace the belts and the one thing that bugged me was that on cars with AC, unless I'm blind, I see no way to adjust the tension on that belt and if I wanted PS, I needed to keep that belt (in a stock config). Well the AC is currently dead in the car, and while I "plan" on getting that running again, in the short term I wanted to be able to have the power steering w/o having to use the AC compressor as an idler pulley.

I've seen set-ups where folks have shimmed/spaced the entire PS assembly 3/4" forward and use what was the former AC drive groove on the crank pulley. I didn't really like that option...so I made this...

ps%20spacer_1.JPG

ps%20spacer_2.JPG


belts_1.JPG

belts_2.JPG


It will probably wind up coming off later when the AC is working again, and I'm using the proper pulley, but it will do for now.

Now, am I wrong, or is there really no adjustment in that crank/AC belt? I stumbled across that when I was replacing the timing belt a few months ago, and was kind of baffled.

The e-fan is also installed in the car now after some fiddling to get it deep enough in the shroud to not hit the water pump pulley. It's one of the factory 2-speed fans. I was wondering, is the low speed setting enough to keep things cool, of should I just run it on the high? It's being controlled by a temp switch at the moment, but will eventually be controlled by the MegaSquirt.

So, once the new hoses show up and I get the fan wired, it will be on the road again.
 
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Ok, well we have efan.
efan.JPG


It's one of the std Volvo units. It took a little creative trimming to get it far enough forward in the stock shroud to clear the water pump pulley, but it's in there.

There is now an 82*(180*F) thermostat and the fan switch is a 93*(200*F). I've run it up to temp a couple times and at the high fan speed it comes back down to cool pretty quickly. I might be able to just run it at the lower speed, but I'll give that a test once the weather warms up to see if it will be enough to cool things down.
 
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Well I put some miles on the new fan set-up.

Using the higher fan setting, I just wasn't happy with the load it was placing on the charging system. So, since I had set up the fan leads for an easy swap, I swapped it to the lower speed setting. This put much less load on the alternator and still cooled the thing down pretty quickly.

I'm going to run it like that for a while.

I kind of like not listening to the old clutch fan whooshing away....
 
Well, it's been over a year since I've updated this thread, but really there's not been much to tell.

Other than upgrading to a 100A alternator, and upgrading the alternator charge/ground wires over the winter, I've just been driving the car, and it's been performing well. I also just replaced the outer window scrapers (Thanks Redwood Chair), as what was on there was now plastic instead of rubber. I also installed one of Aspirators shifters, too. Nice piece.

Recently, as the weather has been warming up, I've noticed that the miss I had before begin to pop back up. The car ran well all winter, and was fine on cool mornings, with only a slight miss on acceleration. However, when hot, the engine would miss under any boost load.

Sometimes it felt like the plugs blowing out (like they did when I bought the car as they were gapped to .044"...), and other times it would just miss and kind of lay down on me. I was suspecting plugs or in-tank pump.

I pulled the plugs a couple days ago and checked the gap, and other than being a couple years old, and maybe opened up .002", they seemed fine. I figured it was time to perhaps do the 740T in-tank pump upgrade. So I picked one up, bought the overly-expensive submersible fuel hose, and finally got around to it today. It is so nice having access to the pump assy w/o having to drop the tank like on my Fords I've worked on.

I get to the access panel and see it has "New Float- 9/16/96" written on it. So someone has been in there previously. I get the lock-ring out with little drama and pull the assy out of the tank. In the process of taking the old pump off, there is no clamp on the pump side of the rubber hose, and I spy "EEC - PVC..." on the hose, and it all but falls off the pump. Found the problem...Someone had decided that the submersible fuel hose was not required, nor was a clamp of any sort. So, the hose had broken down and really wasn't sealed around the pump outlet. This was my fuel supply issue. *rolleyes*

Anyway, I install the new pump, use the PROPER fuel hose, get everything back together and take the car for a drive. It's a bit warm today, so I should know right off if the issue was fixed. Ran it hard under a few boosted accelerations and it didn't hiccup once. Yay!

So, it's back to driving it around. I need some new pics, but I need to give it a bath and get the time to take a couple shots. One day I suppose. I am contemplating an exhaust upgrade. I'll probably just do a 90+ exh manifold and build my own 3" exhaust. I'll probably then toss the T3 turbo I have sitting in the garage on it...
 
Chuck, glad I finally found this thread again. I owned that car at one time and swapped the '83 drive train in it. Did you ever get the rust fixed? Car is still looking good. How is the clear coat? Also, how is the paint on the front head light surrounds and grille holding up?
 
The car stills lives, and sees regular driver duties. With the wagon getting taken care of, I'll be able to start to keep this car from sliding downhill.

I finally got my hands on a good set of tail lights, so it could go from this...
Old%20Tails.jpg


to this...
New%20tails.jpg


Next big project is a 3" exhaust. I have a 90+ manifold, and a T3 (.60/.63) turbo I could install, but I may save that until after I convert from the K-Jet.

Going to deal with a flametrap replacement and poly accy bushings when they arrive.
 
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