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Old 09-18-2018, 03:41 PM   #19
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Midwest

Originally Posted by John V, outside agitator View Post
You're being fed utter non-sense at its usual high-level.
For a given fuel--pump gas in this case---torque is pretty much a function of engine volume and dynamic compression ratio.
A relatively low compression engine and an old emissions cam designed by octogenarians equals what you have...and then there's the auto-tragic slush box..

This is an illustration from a technical manual:

Those nice normal aspirated cars you linked to in the video are not driving with automatics and 3.35:1 back axle with 9:1 motors....some were in fact in VOC--Volvo Original Cup and those typically have around 150 hp, no idea on torque, and 4.1 back axle..
But the engines are expensive--every part has been worked to the absolute limit of stock dimensions ie blocks decked to the max the book allows, longest rods that can found stock, head milled to the book max, almost without a doubt K cam..all "stock".
That's not too bad 150 hp...

But YOU are not bound by such rules.

You can carve the fawk off the head and safely take compression out to at least 11;1 and you can use a cam designed to make some power and there's even chips for the ecu to fatten up the fuel and get rid of the stock 6250 rev limit...

There ARE 740 n.a. headers both complete and DYI in kit form..But not here, now. ( I have 2 sets coming over for 240s I am building 2 more motors for road cars, 1 already installed and running...)

But you didn't say what your budget, skills set, tools, and desire is.
And if you're willing to put a decent set of ratios in the gearbox and change final drive..
They ARE geared sky high..My 88 wag-goon is happy to cruise along at 80 mph but I usually take a thick book to read while its getting up there.

Learn to ignore certain people like the spoiled whiner Promisering..He can't change a cam belt without a thread going on for 3 weeks and 200+ posts here. He really should be barred entrance to any performance related or even ordinary service type questions..

Be warned it IS called TURBObricks here, so the answer to every single question is turbocharge it or buy a turbo car. It IS easiest especially for those who have never built an engine and are incapable of taking the head off and getting it back on and having the engine run. There's a few guys that have built decent non-turbo motors although they are old pushrod volvos--but the pathways is the same, the old CCC: Compression, Camshaft, Carburation (now injection)..

Note that the funner-er cars in your vid are, if they're in a 240 or 740 2,3 whikle some of the 940s are 2,5..25 years ago they typical club level B230 powered 240 was making beteen 220 to 235 hp...and you can putter along in stop and go traffic... but the performance you see is from BIG carbs--2 x 48 DCOE Webers is the typical thing, some like Dellorto, some Mikuni motorcycle carbs.The intake manifold runners being THE biggest restriction to make any power over 175 no matter what you do in the engine. The back axle ratios are typically 5,1:1 for the smaller engines and 4.6 or 4.88 in the bigger or more powerful engines.

So tell us about skills, tools, budget.
Timing belt is sub 30 minutes dude knocked one out yesterday along with a cam seal in 25 minutes flat.

Your guys’ insults are weak sauce.
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