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Weber DCOE Fuel pump and FPR?

Found a guy that is running a Carter electric fuel pump with a Weber 38DGAS. He said it runs great with that pump. I like how he mounted it in the stock location. Looks to be a 6-8 psi pump. Also it looks like you could use AN fittings if you wanted
165610747.jpg


http://www.jegs.com/i/Carter/180/P4600HP/10002/-1

They also have a 4-6 psi pump that may also work.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Carter/180/P4...f8kBArxRpFZZzsdkmCS86d0nibQQyjQW1GBoCjzHw_wcB

And they also sell a kit
http://www.jegs.com/i/Carter/180/P4070K/10002/-1
 
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MikeJr. said:
Found a guy that is running a Carter electric fuel pump with a Weber 38DGAS. He said it runs great with that pump. I like how he mounted it in the stock location. Looks to be a 6-8 psi pump. Also it looks like you could use AN fittings if you wanted
165610747.jpg


http://www.jegs.com/i/Carter/180/P4600HP/10002/-1

They also have a 4-6 psi pump that may also work.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Carter/180/P4...f8kBArxRpFZZzsdkmCS86d0nibQQyjQW1GBoCjzHw_wcB

And they also sell a kit
http://www.jegs.com/i/Carter/180/P4070K/10002/-1
Click to expand...

I don't.
It violates everything we know about electric pumps...:oops:
They like to push..:oogle:

they don't like heat.:oops:

should be low as possible.:oogle:

1,2, 3 ....just-a like-a dat.
I suppose it could have been worse...they could have mounted it even high and attached to exhaust manifold..:wtf:
 
MikeJr. said:
Also what size fuel line do you guys recommend? Will the stock size suffice?
Click to expand...

I almost always re-plumb from back--where the fuel pump is supposed to go according to the instructions for every one I've seen and also every OEM electric pump arrangement---
and I use 5/16" brake pipe cause that is big enough and its easier to get brass ends that go to 5/16 barbed for the 8mm hose for the beginning and end bits...
And of course I run the hard line where it is safe from damage and corrosion: inside the car:oogle:
 
1971Gold142 said:
Here is my current setup using a Filter King regulator with separate pressure guage for dual DCOEs on a B20.


<a href="http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/1971Gold142/media/VolvoRegGuage1_zpsvvvra174.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj565/1971Gold142/VolvoRegGuage1_zpsvvvra174.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo VolvoRegGuage1_zpsvvvra174.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/1971Gold142/media/VolvoGuage_zpsddqztp8h.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj565/1971Gold142/VolvoGuage_zpsddqztp8h.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo VolvoGuage_zpsddqztp8h.jpg"/></a>
Click to expand...

Don't get butt-hurt but can you tell me why you'd leave a gauge installed on something like the fuel pressure that you set and forget? I have done a lotta carb set ups and maybe I'm just dumb--many say that is the case and I tend to agree with them--but what good is a gauge under a closed hood? Or a guage left in line..one more cut, 2 more clamps, one more potential thing to bounce around and break.?

I am confuse.
 
John V said:
Don't get butt-hurt but can you tell me why you'd leave a gauge installed on something like the fuel pressure that you set and forget? I have done a lotta carb set ups and maybe I'm just dumb--many say that is the case and I tend to agree with them--but what good is a gauge under a closed hood? Or a guage left in line..one more cut, 2 more clamps, one more potential thing to bounce around and break.?

I am confuse.
Click to expand...

'Cause it looks cool?

I have a gauge on the turbo wagon, MS already told me that the fuel system was running out of flow (an increasingly steep top edge end of the fuel map) but the fuel gauge showed it in a much more direct manner. On the dyno, as the boost rose, so did the fuel pressure, until it hit full boost, at which point it started oscillating and dropping.

Of course, it's a mechanical gauge, under the hood, really not of much use when driving around, if I'm running short of fuel then the WB O2 gauge will let me know.
 
John V said:
I don't.
It violates everything we know about electric pumps...:oops:
They like to push..:oogle:

they don't like heat.:oops:

should be low as possible.:oogle:

1,2, 3 ....just-a like-a dat.
I suppose it could have been worse...they could have mounted it even high and attached to exhaust manifold..:wtf:
Click to expand...
Ok good to know. I want to say I already knew that and maybe forgot.
 
I have another question. Does it matter how the supply line going into the carbs is oriented? I see a lot of them that the line goes into the T on the first carb, then over to the second, and that's what the kit instructions say to do, but does that starve the second carb of fuel? Should it go into a T fitting separate from the first carb, like between the two, then equally divide into both carbs? Like in hiperfautos pic


hiperfauto said:
CompetitionFuelPump2.jpg
Click to expand...

And this is the way I see most configured, and the way they say to do it in the kit
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It doesn't really matter, unless you're running out of fuel (or flow rate), at which point one of the carbs might go dry before the other.

Within the range of acceptable pressures, the carb really won't care about 6 psi vs 4 psi vs 3 psi. The way it meters fuel is utterly independent of the fuel pressure going into them. The float valves control how much fuel goes into the carb (fills to bowls to a certain specific level) and the bowls themselves are vented to outside air so the jets are not affected by incoming fuel pressure at all.

As long as it's not too high - which can force the float valves open and flood the carb (gas will come out the bowl vent and into the air cleaner, down onto the alternator and exhaust manifold, woot) or too low, in which case there might not be enough fuel flow to keep up with the carbs on extended WOT.
 
JohnMc said:
It doesn't really matter, unless you're running out of fuel (or flow rate), at which point one of the carbs might go dry before the other.

Within the range of acceptable pressures, the carb really won't care about 6 psi vs 4 psi vs 3 psi. The way it meters fuel is utterly independent of the fuel pressure going into them. The float valves control how much fuel goes into the carb (fills to bowls to a certain specific level) and the bowls themselves are vented to outside air so the jets are not affected by incoming fuel pressure at all.

As long as it's not too high - which can force the float valves open and flood the carb (gas will come out the bowl vent and into the air cleaner, down onto the alternator and exhaust manifold, woot) or too low, in which case there might not be enough fuel flow to keep up with the carbs on extended WOT.
Click to expand...
Oh ok makes sense.

Here is another example I found (non-Volvo)
165611354.jpg


I like this set up. I was thinking about using common plenum to a fresh air supply behind the grille somewhere.
 
John V said:
Don't get butt-hurt but can you tell me why you'd leave a gauge installed on something like the fuel pressure that you set and forget? I have done a lotta carb set ups and maybe I'm just dumb--many say that is the case and I tend to agree with them--but what good is a gauge under a closed hood? Or a guage left in line..one more cut, 2 more clamps, one more potential thing to bounce around and break.?

I am confuse.
Click to expand...

I can take constructive criticism so no prob and a good question. The Filter King doesn't have any way of showing what fuel pressure you are running so I had to have a guage to set it. I could remove it now that I have it set but I like it and also lets me know if I have a fuel supply issue down the road...
 
Borla bought TWM Induction a few years ago. They used to make very nice stuff including 3/8" stainless steel linkage for DCOEs that Pierce Manifolds now carries, except for a neat shaft mounted return spring setup. Now I have to call Borla and talk to the former owner of TWM to get them.

DCOE_LinkageReturnSpring.jpg
 
hiperfauto said:
Borla bought TWM Induction a few years ago. They used to make very nice stuff including 3/8" stainless steel linkage for DCOEs that Pierce Manifolds now carries, except for a neat shaft mounted return spring setup. Now I have to call Borla and talk to the former owner of TWM to get them.

DCOE_LinkageReturnSpring.jpg
Click to expand...

Those are nice. How much do they run?
 
MikeJr. said:
Those are nice. How much do they run?
Click to expand...

The 3/8" SS linkage kits are ~$105 and the return spring kit is another $48. The car pictured is an 1800E, so a bottom mount cable linkage kit was also required to the tune of ~$45 as well as a custom throttle cable made from teflon lined braided steel hose and reusable end fittings which was then covered in fire sleeve.

Edit:

The car pictured is a '69 that was converted to cable linkage.
 
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