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questions when doing the heater core 240

durk80

Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2015
Location
South GA
I've never had the pleasure of replacing the heater core and blower motor in a 240. Upon taking the motor out, it appeared someone else replaced it already with a made in Mexico Siemens brand. It was making an awful squeaking and groaning noise.

After reading Art's website about the blower motor replacement, and another article that mentioned it's a good idea to replace the heater core as well while your in there. I decided to buy a Spectra Premium core and wound up cutting the plastic top off so I could get the old core out. I did this because the air conditioner has been working perfectly, and I'm not ready for that to repair!

I have a few questions about some of the 'invisible' things you don't normally see when the spartan interior is all together.


1.How long do the Volvo heater hoses last? Mine still appear to be good despite being made in 1990. No leaks, but I did purchase some new hose, however, it doesn't have the cloth-like material on it. It's 5/8" Pro One hose from amazon. Replace? Yes or No.

2. I wanted to tighten the wipers up while everything was out of the way. Can I snug them up so the piece that moves the wipers doesn't move up and down, or do I need a little free play? They were noisy on the upstroke before.

3. I replaced the Volvo resistor with one from MTC. The ceramic core isn't as robust, and there are no indentations for the metal holder for it to sit securely. There are also extra tabs covered in the ceramic coating that are a little too close to the metal holder. I put heat shrink over the tabs, so maybe that will mitigate conduction should the ceramic coating ever crack.

Please excuse my neurotic questions, but I am trying to do it as right as I can the first time with the tools I have on hand. Let me know if I over looked anything. Thanks!
 
Volvo hoses last forever. Just reinstall yours. Unless some rodents have chewed them. Are you dicribing the pivots? They are pressed together, so now adjustment. Give the cables a little snug.
 
Volvo hoses last forever. Just reinstall yours. Unless some rodents have chewed them. Are you describing the pivots? They are pressed together, so no adjustment. Give the cables a little snug.

Haha. Cool! That's great to know they last forever, as they still feel uniform and I couldn't feel any weak spots. And, thank you for describing what to do with the cables. After this, I'll be at stage .75!

Thank you 2 old for this!
 
I've done this job probably 10-15x.....found it much easier to remove the dash and the entire box and do everything on a bench (not sure if thats what you were implying anyways). A blower swap on a bench is around 15 min. :cool:

When its out, you can also vacuum out the debris inside the cowl that you couldn't get to otherwise.
 
I've done this job probably 10-15x.....found it much easier to remove the dash and the entire box and do everything on a bench (not sure if thats what you were implying anyways). A blower swap on a bench is around 15 min. :cool:

I was going to do this, but I didn't want to break the a/c evaporator as the a/c still works.

The main mistake I made was when I removed the fan cages, I didn't make a mark in relationship to the shaft as the Haynes manual says (which I don't even know what that means)... Now, there is excessive noise from the fan wheel rubbing on the fan casing even though there are no wires or cables caught between the white casing box and the black casing shell.

Is there any way to fix this?

Luckily I checked it before I put it back together though.
 
There are flats on the fan motor shafts. The fan wheels have internal flats that must all slide together or it's a wobbly job when the fan spins.
 
There are flats on the fan motor shafts. The fan wheels have internal flats that must all slide together or it's a wobbly job when the fan spins.

Oh my! I'll go check to see that the flats are lined up, and pray that through brute force and ignorance, I didn't render them useless! Thank you dl242gt!!!, Like always, you have been a tremendous help :-)

The internal plastic flat on each part of the fan was shot. No matter what I did, it would hit the backing and make noise. On a whim, I filled in a bit of the rubbed away flat with some superglue and a dusting of baking soda. I let it dry and assembled. Works great!
 
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Nice work! Just had to make up the lost spacing. So nice when the fan is quiet. Enjoy!


Haha, I couldn't have done it with out your help as the missing piece of plastic that rubbed off was so miniscule that I'd probably still be trying to figure it out. I am extremely thankful for your expertise :cool:
 
Yeah those hoses last forever..Then they burst. Like they did on mine..But they last forever cause everybody says so..

You are right, nothing lasts forever.I couldn't imagine being stranded with that problem. I'm doing it in my apartment parking lot and that's a challenge!

The only reason why I used the heater hose is because the one I purchased looks flimsier (Thermoid) It has small pin looking holes running up one of the sides. At the time, I didn't realize that the holes were from the machine that puts the name on the hose. It's still halfway apart--awaiting on an ignition lock, so I can always change it if you'd think the new hose is a better option.

Thank you for responding, John!
 
Yeah those hoses last forever..Then they burst. Like they did on mine..But they last forever cause everybody says so..

Has me curious too exactly which hoses burst. It is common for the head to firewall hose to be a cause of sudden loss of coolant, hastened by variables such as oil leaks around the PCV, or neglected oil-saturated motor mounts. But the hoses inside? Never saw one that wasn't pristine at any age.
 
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