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740 No Pulse to Injectors, Has Spark

Just wanted to make you aware of that potential issue down the road. I've had to replace the line in cars that used regular fuel line and by the time we did the work. The line was dissolved. lol. Small pieces of the braid from inside the line were all that was there.
 
Finally tried the starting fluid, and it won't run on that. My constantly dying battery doesn't help, but after two or three attempts I couldn't start it.
Is it possible to put the distributor on backwards? Being that they slot is offset, I don't think you can, but I read that it's possible?
I feel that may be the reason it's not starting on fluid. Still doesn't explain my lack of fuel at the rail.

I started a new thread for that problem, but my lines seem to be clear and the pumps are running. I have probably 2-3 gallons of gas in the tank. Could that be the problem?
 
Put more gas in. Maybe your intank hose is trashed and not sucking in fluid.

I don’t think you can put the dist in backwards, I wasn’t able to.
 
The story keeps changing, and now there are multiple threads, so it's difficult to understand what's really going on. You say you had power to the LH box, but you are saying you only have injector pulse if the relay is jumped. I don't see how that makes sense.

You say you have good spark, but claim it won't start on ether. That also doesn't make sense.

You say you hear pumps running, but no fuel. For that one I would just simply pull the outlet hose from the sender and jump power to the tank pump and see if fuel comes out. If you wanna check if it's wires backwards, reverse the polarity of your test equipment and see if fuel comes out.

It should run on starting fluid if your claims are accurate.
 
^ see other thread lol, that’s what he did, and no fuel came out. I too suggested reversing polarity but i think he’s doing that now. Bypassing the relay and hearing things work suggests to me that the relay is bad?
 
I don't see how it makes sense either, but that is the case. The noid light does not light with the WORKING relay, but it does when I jump it with the y-jumper and crank.

The only reason I can think of that it won't start on ether is the distributor is wet. The seal along the hood/firewall is damaged and leaking, and we've had ridiculous amounts of rain here lately, so I can't totally rule that out as a possibility.
Other than that, I have adjusted timing and that has made no difference.

Like PromiseRing said, I did that already. See my latest post on that thread for what I did about bypassing the in-tank fuel pump. https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=342303
 
Take that ignorant quote out of your sig. What do you think an Indy shop is would do to if they needed to look up a wiring diagram to figure it out? Google it? Ask on tbricks? I've tried quite a bit to help this guy out. Show what you know and try to help instead of just showing up to be a jerk.
 
I now have fuel coming into the rail, but it still won't start. I have fuel, air, and spark. Haven't checked for compression, but I doubt it would magically lose compression since the last time I ran the car on ether.
Does anyone know if there is something inside of the distributor that could have been installed backwards? I really don't think so, but I guess it's possible.
 
I don’t think you can install those head mounted distributors wrong. Make sure the engine is in time.

Well, I'm referring to that offset slotted "key" that goes on the end and is held in by the pin. I think it's possible that I installed it backwards so the rotor is flipped 180 degrees from where it should be.
I'll pull it off and double check it today. Fortunately I have a spare distributor lying around somewhere.

I'm also going to pull off the timing cover and make sure the cam timing is right. I don't see any reason it wouldn't be, but crazier things have happened before.
 
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