Qwkswede's 1992 244 daily driver. Back to my rolling roots.

check the tb as well, that'd be an easy fix if that's all it is.

It is the first day of spring, summer wheels and lowering are done. I parked the car at the store and it picked up a nice report card.

qwkswede said:

It is the first day of spring, summer wheels and lowering are done. I parked the car at the store and it picked up a nice report card.

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Haha, isn't that awesome, I drove my 1991 245 Old Iron to work once in the last 8 months, that one day I had five separate thumbs up on the highway drive to work!

That's one of the main reasons I miss my 242. Even haggard and scary, constant thumbs ups and parking lot compliments. One day I'll have another....

Vacuum numbers at idle will vary due to cam, spark and other tuning parameters.

That said vacuum should increase from idle to 2000 - 2500 (no boost)(in neutral).

If not, it is constipated.

Good suggestions here for troubleshooting things. I still haven't fixed it 100%, but the car does run better in spurts. My catalytic converter is quickly disintegrating, and making more noise than ever. I suspect that enough has broken loose now, and the exhaust flows better. I get power and quick spool on occasion. I'll get a new catalyst installed soon.

But another more pressing issue came up. I tried to load the car against the brakes a little it and launch with a couple psi boost. First try, and WHAM BANG! It sounded like there was an angry elf under my car with a sledge hammer. I limped the car along for a couple days, it was obvious that the engine or trans was contacting the car body under torque. It was also sitting down on the steering rack making steering feel quite interesting and vibratory.

Got under there today to assess the damage:
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I had 1 diesel mount in my spares, I have a second on the way now. I hope/think Diesel mounts should be strong enough for this application.

Volvo brand? If yes, yes.

Hmmm. The one I found was the passenger side, and it was an MTC brand. I don't know where it came from. Might be 10 years old. I'll order the drivers side tomorrow. I'll get a Volvo one if they are available.

The diesel mounts are in. I'm not sure I like them. There are no noises or heavy vibes. But the engine feels like it is bouncing on a trampoline. When cranking the engine to start, the front of the car bounces up and down 1/2" now. Very weird.

On another note. I bought myself a birthday present. I got some IPD antiroll bars in the 25/25 sizes. Nice improvement, but not so noticeable when the car is already using heavy springs. It is dramatic on a stock spring Volvo, not so dramatic on my car now. But it was needed. It feels a bit more locked in through the corners now.

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/frmqifz-7qfXUW7WNdmmMNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0rV2OYZ6jLA/VSBjajMFewI/AAAAAAAAJt8/CriO_KFzlCU/s640/IMAGE_1362.jpeg" height="640" width="480" /></a>

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Everything all smooth with the microsquirt?

Stiggy Pop said:

Everything all smooth with the microsquirt?

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It is running great as far as MS is concerned. I'm Driving it every day lately. I tried an experiment with midgrade 87 octane last week that went poorly. These high compression B230f motors detonate like a can of marbles if you don't run premium apparently. But I was able to dial the timing way down and reduced boost to 10ish psi, and made it safe. Probably not a bad place to be with the tune for daily driving. But it is noticeably more responsive with hotter timing.

My catalytic converter finally disintegrated , so I ran a steel rod through the cat pipe to push the leftover clogging chunks out. The exhaust note got louder, and now the turbo spools much better. It feels like a proper Turbo Volvo now. I need to see if I can make it run like a nice modified Turbo Volvo now.

I have a bigger turbo on the shelf, (ebay 50 trim) but I'm not sure I want to run it. I'll see where I can get with more boost and some careful tuning first.

I haven't tuned an NA +T before. Timing is lower than I would have expected. I'm running about 190kPa full boost now. So you can ignore the rows above that. But this is where I am with the "safe" tune.

I found a possible cause for the slow boost buildup. I have a pretty large crack in the turbine housing. In this picture you can see a line at the far side of the wastegate port. That wraps pretty far around into the neck of the turbine housing. The catalytic converter was the biggest culprit, but this seems like it could be contributing too.
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I'm going to mill the exhaust manifold flange flat so I can run a standard T3 turbine hsg. I dropped the header off at the machine shop today. Generic T3/T4 on the right. I just rebuilt it with a 360deg thrust, new bearings, and new seals everywhere. It is still a junky Chinese Garrett Copy, but it worked pretty well on my old 740. So I'm going to give it another shot.

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/kV1soNUcr6xqnfjXg5wT4tMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-uwCq-y_RFdU/VSQujtmDjVI/AAAAAAAAJu0/vE-RxYyqDbU/s800/IMAGE_1364.jpeg" height="600" width="800" /></a>

Interesting, I wonder if a cracked housing could be why my turbo wouldn't boost.

Anyway - hope you get it sorted!

45trim wheel in a 50trim housing is my guess. 240 T3 used a 45trim wheel, 740 used a 50trim wheel. both are .42 a/r housings and look the same. gives VERY slow boost response.

Could a .63 housing in a 740 T3 result in the same sluggish response? Mine is mildly atrocious.

harribert said:

Could a .63 housing in a 740 T3 result in the same sluggish response? Mine is mildly atrocious.

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No? Same turbine wheel used in the 240 T3 and the 740 T3.

Easy way to determine if you have a turbine wheel / housing trim mismatch is to measure diameters.

Check the inside diameter of the turbine housing outlet where it is still cylindrical. That diameter should be roughly 1.0mm larger than the exducer diameter of the turbine wheel, as measured at the trailing edges of the blades. Tricky if the wheel has an odd number of blades but you can get a rough estimate by eyeballing with calipers.

Any more than 1.0mm difference between the two diameters (i.e. 0.5mm radial clearance between wheel and housing) and you should start suspecting a mismatch.

After seeing this I took a good close look at the T3 I was running. It looks all original, and the compressor and turbine clearances were very tight and a matched set. Also the turbo is actually amazingly tight in the bearings. Its done well for having a million miles on it. I don't know where it came from, but it has been on 2 +T cars for me and my dad.

More progress:

I took my exhaust manifold to the machine shop and he carved off the protruberence. I then opened up the outlet on the manifold to match the T3 flange a bit closer. I also port matched the head end of the manifold.

So I bolted up the Chinese made 50 trim. And immediately my daily driver became a project again. The T04e compressor housings are quite large for the area between the engine and fender on a 240. It looks like it will just fit, as long as the engine doesn't torque too far over toward the passenger side. The wastegate setup is another story. The actuator that came with the chinabay turbo doesn't clear the inner fender. So I'll have to fabricate something custom.

Anyone have suggestions for getting an actuator installed?It seems like it won't be a bolt on item.
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The wastegate actuator dilemna...
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/y4aOsdaE0FV5JKMkj3GZ0tMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DiZJiwDBxQ4/VSYPUAkQzVI/AAAAAAAAJvw/2WvG3zUrlnM/s640/IMAGE_1367.jpeg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/117822358412918795905/92Volvo244?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">92 Volvo 244</a></td></tr></table>

drill holes in the t3 actuator bracket on the left, thats what i did with my china bay turbo, let me see if i can find pictures

The angles were tricky with the large T04e compressor housing. So I had to make a bracket for the wastegate actuator and shorten the rod considerably.

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QIopBqqj_uI-84FxBsk-jNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PlD1G3w2RJI/VSdpf9D8fEI/AAAAAAAAJwI/Ib75UiFEo-c/s640/IMAGE_1368.jpeg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/117822358412918795905/92Volvo244?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">92 Volvo 244</a></td></tr></table>


And I had to remove the compressor housing to wiggle the turbo down between the fender and motor. I made a few scratches in my pristine inner fender paint.
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zdGhtCTqs1ExPw_cZbfjCNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qFThOByzbgo/VSdpg-GYkVI/AAAAAAAAJwQ/cOFsYMeAMR0/s640/IMAGE_1369.jpeg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/117822358412918795905/92Volvo244?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">92 Volvo 244</a></td></tr></table>