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Terrible wheel hop, can't lose it

Stop being upset for a few minutes and think about whats different between an IRS and a Live Axle?

Hint: The driveshaft angle doesnt change on an IRS car.

Eh, okay, one more time.

Yes, I admit that first thing I need is adjustable panhard. Think I mentioned before that that's what I'm going to do next.
I guess the questions where stupid enough to get stupid answers.

I'll update this when the wheel hop will be gone, just in case someone here drives welded diff and custom springs, because can't afford Kalphenke coilovers for 1,4$ and aftermarket LSD for 500$.
 
Eh, okay, one more time.

Yes, I admit that first thing I need is adjustable panhard. Think I mentioned before that that's what I'm going to do next.
I guess the questions where stupid enough to get stupid answers.

I'll update this when the wheel hop will be gone, just in case someone here drives welded diff and custom springs, because can't afford Kalphenke coilovers for 1,4$ and aftermarket LSD for 500$.

The panhard bar goes left and right. Not tilting the nose up and down.
 
The panhard bar goes left and right. Not tilting the nose up and down.

Can't really understand your sentence. If it's because of coilovers I mentioned - well, yeah, you can ride a boat and hope not to roll over, then you don't need to move the panhard at all, because it's perfectly centered with stock suspension.
 
Maybe you tire **** is rubbing because you have a stock panhard bar and are lowered 8". It sounds like your geometry is all out of whack and your u joints are hammering themselves apart.

Lsd doesn't lock the wheels. That's why it is called a limited slip.
 
Maybe you tire **** is rubbing because you have a stock panhard bar and are lowered 8". It sounds like your geometry is all out of whack and your u joints are hammering themselves apart.

Lsd doesn't lock the wheels. That's why it is called a limited slip.

Don't try and tell him what he already knows.
 
to me, it still sounds like worn bushings. you said yourself, it all worked good at the start of the season.

with the car on the ground, in first gear. lay on the ground near the rear wheel, and rock the car back and forth, look to see how much movement you're seeing with axle roll. you might be getting the wheel hop from the bushings loading up, and letting go as you lose, and gain traction. Like i said earlier, i went with heim joints in my toque rods to get rid of any of that wrap and i the axle doesn't load up at all anymore. i think between bad torque rod bushings or bad main axle bushings thats where you're getting your hop.

im not gonna dwell on whats proper and whats not, but a pan hard bar simply positions your axle laterally.. so i can't see it affecting vertical performance.
 
:drama::drama: This is getting good. There has been plenty of advice in this thread from more then a few people who have done a various amount of little to huge suspension mods that have all worked.

When it comes to a welded diff you are now changing the rate that each tire spins. In a open diff or a locker the inside and outside tires will spin at different speeds when turning. That welded diff is great for going in straight lines but once you start turning that welded diff becomes not so happy.

So suck up your inflated balls and listen or you going to be figuring this out on your own and will probably never figure it out.

Now back to my :drama: pooooooopcooooooorn
 
since LSD locks both wheels 100% when on throttle.

Not necessarly.
Here's a hint: LIMITED slip differential.

Eh, okay, one more time.
because can't afford Kalphenke coilovers for 1,4$

Why would anyone do that?

and aftermarket LSD for 500$.

**** that!
I'll just leave this here
http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,83276
asterix.jpg
 
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