LH2.4 Install/Conversion. Just 4 wires to make it run

once i have it running ill be making an entire thread about the car, i got this car as a shell with doors an glass that's it lol its been a big project. right now i have
both bid red to switched power at fusebox,
i have BIG yellow/red AND small yellow/red to switched power at fuse box,
i have blue/black to switched power at fusebox

i have jumper wire from battery to coil to power coil currently.

i have fuel to the fuel rail but injectors ARE NOT firing. i have power to COIL AND POWERSTAGE but no spark at the sparkplugs

Okay, so the big red/yellow should not be wired into the fusebox. That's why they are running all the time. When the key is on, the pumps are on right? If you look at the photos in the other thread, there is a big red/yellow from the white relay in the passenger footwell. This is what powers the fuel pumps. The ECU will cycle them for a few seconds, and then continuously when the engine is rotating.

What pin in the blue/black going to in the ECU connector? That might be the cruise control input into the ECU and not the switched power for the ECU. My harness has a solid blue wire for the switched power to the ECU, and the blue/black is for the cruise control input. That is why we keep asking your what pin location they are in. The pin locations will not change for LH2.4, but the wire colors may.

To keep things simple, let's keep the conversation in the other thread, this multiple thread thing is difficult. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=282678&page=3
When a solution is found, you can either update your solution here or make your own specific Diesel to LH2.4 swap thread.

Please can I ask for some advise!!? (And hopefully save me some time).... I have a 1990 2.0 240 with LH2.4. The engine is out of the car but I left the harness intact. I have a b230ft from a 1996 940 (again LH2.4) with the ecu and ezk.

Currently this is still in the car and I am trying to unpick what part of the harness I need to keep. However reading this thread (+ loads of others! )

I would really like to know:- If I just take the b230ft out of the 960, drop it in the 240, attach the 240 loom and and hook up the ecu's (deal with the immobiliser) do I need to do anything else!?

(This is a wiring question only, I have an idea (!) of the other things required http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=42051))

Thanks

* always search from google!
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=36451
http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=60700

Any further advise gladly welcome. This is like creeping forward in the dark, you never know what you might come across

Hey guys, I figure I'd update the cluster wiring with a diagram to better help people who don't want to constantly go back and forth when figuring this out. Enjoy!



In addition, it's important to remember that the vehicle speed signal wire (blue-black) from the ECU gets put on one of the two male spades from #200 on the LH2.4 cluster diagram.





Wildman: If you already have a car set up with an LH2.4 harness, it's as easy as swapping over the engine, hooking up all the sensors, plugging in turbo computers, and turning the key.

Although, a note: LH2.4 240's do not use a resistor pack for the injectors as the injectors in your 240 are already high impedance; your 940 turbo has a resistor pack to make the low impedance resistors run.

What this means: You need to use high impedance injectors with your LH2.4 240 unless you wish to run stock 940 turbo injectors. This requires splicing in the resistor ballast from your 940. My recommendation is to leave the 240's harness intact and simply find high impedance injectors to run with the setup as splicing in the ballast can be a pain.

culberro said:

Okay, so the big red/yellow should not be wired into the fusebox. That's why they are running all the time. When the key is on, the pumps are on right? If you look at the photos in the other thread, there is a big red/yellow from the white relay in the passenger footwell. This is what powers the fuel pumps. The ECU will cycle them for a few seconds, and then continuously when the engine is rotating.

What pin in the blue/black going to in the ECU connector? That might be the cruise control input into the ECU and not the switched power for the ECU. My harness has a solid blue wire for the switched power to the ECU, and the blue/black is for the cruise control input. That is why we keep asking your what pin location they are in. The pin locations will not change for LH2.4, but the wire colors may.

To keep things simple, let's keep the conversation in the other thread, this multiple thread thing is difficult. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=282678&page=3
When a solution is found, you can either update your solution here or make your own specific Diesel to LH2.4 swap thread.

Click to expand...

The above graph might help your query about the BL-BLK wire, which I believe is the center wire and goes to male spades in position #200 on the LH2.4 gauge cluster diagram. The only differences I was able to spot in the clusters is that 32/A in the diagram for K-Jet supplies switched power for the cluster, while as in LH2.4 cars, it can be in charge of auxiliary options for the vehicle. Possibly ABS? I don't know offhand, unfortunately. If you inspect the pin location for 32/A on your cluster, you'll see that it likely won't have a pin there-- just an empty slot for cars that may have this feature.

Do you need the later rear end and a electric speedometer For engine to run with the LH2.4?

photoman327 said:

Do you need the later rear end and a electric speedometer For engine to run with the LH2.4?

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If you want to run the car with an idle-air control, then yes. If you don't. it will have a hunting idle.

You can also get a lh2.2 throttle body (has a nice little needle valve for adjusting idle) and use that to set idle, and then disconnect the IAC. Or, you can use the lh2.4 and set the idle using the adjustable links. The downside is that without an IAC the car will barely run when cold, really low revs.

culberro said:

If you want to run the car with an idle-air control, then yes. If you don't. it will have a hunting idle.

You can also get a lh2.2 throttle body (has a nice little needle valve for adjusting idle) and use that to set idle, and then disconnect the IAC. Or, you can use the lh2.4 and set the idle using the adjustable links. The downside is that without an IAC the car will barely run when cold, really low revs.

Click to expand...

Thanks, trying to plan a course of action for that 1980 242. Going to the later dash set up and will not have a speedometer until I find a rear end.

just a quick update on this thread since there isnt much concrete information on the ABS cars with the 11 pin connector. the good news is that its still just 5 wires, and I'm here to tell you where to connect them.

my 81 242ti had k-jet previously (obviously) and I initially did the lh2.2 swap, then later did 2.4. my donor car had the 11 pin connector and it took me months to get it ironed out since there is little documentation.

the 11 pin connector looks like this

1 5 8
2 6 9
3 7 10
4 X 11
(these are the pin numbers, the X is the gap in the connector for the clip, also, this is looking at the male side of the connector looking at the pin side, not the wire side)

I used this wiring diagram for a 91 240 http://brickspeed.net/VolvoDocs/240-Diagrams/volvo_240__1991.pdf

so, pinout is as follows, I'll include wire color, even though its fairly arbitrary since it had a habit of changing, ever so slightly.

1- blue wire, this supplies switched 12v. without this, you will get no spark, and no fuel pumps. it connects to pin 35 on the ECU, pin 4 of the diagnostic connection, pin 6 of the EZK, and one of the pins in the CA EGR cars. ultimately you want it hooked to pin 15 of the ignition switch. NOTE: you must use an lh2.4 ignition switch for this pinout to be accurate, also, make sure you are referencing the pin numbers on the switch, not on the connector.

2- gray/red wire, this goes to the A/C delay relay.

3- FAT yellow/red wire, the wiring diagram says fuse #6, but you can use any fused switched 12v source.

4- green wire, goes to pin 14 of the ECU and connects to the A/C system.

5- blue/black wire, goes to pin 6 of connector 31 on the instrument cluster. (big round connector)

6- violet wire, goes to pin 34 of instrument cluster, shift indicator?

7- white/pink wire, pin 235 of instrument cluster, check engine light.

8- small yellow/red wire, same location as pin 3. diagram says fuse #6, just find switched 12v.

9- pink wire, not entirely sure where this goes.... best guess is pin 50 of ignition switch, starter circuit.... but I dont have it connected and my car runs

10- red wire, runs from pin 4 of the ECU, and pin 5 of the EZK, and pin 3 of the fuel pump relay, to fuse #6. or just 12v. this powers the ECU/EZK and the fuel pump relay.

11- red wire, same as pin 10.

the 5 wires needed to make it RUN, are pin 1 blue wire, pins 3 and 8 with the yellow/red wires, and pins 10 and 11 with the red wires.


I hope this helps someone, I know it would have been great to know before I suffered through it.

Im just going to ad some info from above along with pictures. Some of it is repeated but may help. Im using parts from a 91' 245 LH 2.4 car going into a 1984 245 Diesel chassis.
I am going to use the 2.4 ign switch and put the wires in the correct places. The blue wire in the correct spot will save like 4 wires.

Im doing the conversion to LH 2.4 but using the later 91+ 11 pin connector.

Big red yellow wire goes to the main pump. The connector for it is down by the drivers kick panel. There is a small red yellow that branches off of this wire and goes the the fuse strip for the intank fuel pump.

The second small red yellow wire is for the O2 sensor heater and goes to fuse strip.

There is another small red yellow wire but is not in the 11 pin connector but runs along with it. this is on auto cars and is for the OD relay and plugs into the back of cluster.

2 Red wires are for power and go to the fuse strip.

Pink white wire is for the check engine light and goes to back of cluster.

Red gray wire is for A/C delay relay.

Violet wire comes out of the 11 pin but then has a connector right off it. Its for the upshift indicator to the cluster.

Green wire is for the AC compressor switch in the engine compartment.

Blue Black wire goes to the round plug on back side of cluster and pin number 6. This wire converts the language from the speed sender to the speedo so the ecu can understand it. If you look on the wire diagrams linked above its the plug 31/6. I have to double check but I though the wire also went into the engine compartment but disregard until I make sure. It does go from 11 pin to the cluster for sure though.

Pink wire goes to Term 50 on the ignition switch plug. The wire also ties into the auto trans shift inter lock or neutral start saftey switch deal down by the trans tunnel. Another part of this wire goes to the engine compartment by the firewall for the service connector to turn the motor over.

Blue wire- This is the heart of all the wires so pay attention.
This wire goes to the ignition switch plug term 15R then it branches out to
Speedo plug
Fuse strip- has a connector to slide on.
Ignition coil
also goes to a 4 wire plug by the glove box for I dont know what maybe cruise control? abs? Not sure. -See pic.
From this 4 wire plug a green wire goes to the halfmoon connector pin #3 for abs.

Note on the two ignition switch connector plugs, In the first one I already took out the pink and blue wire terminals.

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Holy thread resurrection batman.

Figuring out my 11 pin 91+ LH 2.4 harness to swap my kjet car.
That being said, i think I have most of the pins figured out...(THANK YOU GUYS!!!!) but the red/white? or is it red/grey? (tach vs AC?) It appears more white than grey?

What we came up with when comparing to the 1991 manual.


What do these guys do? I have no AC, a T5 swapped trans, and no OD solenoid... Superflous?


I also have 3 black wires that simply go to a ring terminal up near the 11 pin connector. What are these for?


My understanding is that the BIG red/yellow wire powers the system relay, and the little red/yellow powers the 02 heater. Why are there 3 small red/yellows? They all tie into the same terminal.


Comments in RED for clarity below -

slow240 said:

.....
the 11 pin connector looks like this

1 5 8
2 6 9
3 7 10
4 X 11
(these are the pin numbers, the X is the gap in the connector for the clip, also, this is looking at the male side of the connector looking at the pin side, not the wire side)

1- blue wire, this supplies switched 12v. without this, you will get no spark, and no fuel pumps. it connects to pin 35 on the ECU, pin 4 of the diagnostic connection, pin 6 of the EZK, and one of the pins in the CA EGR cars. ultimately you want it hooked to pin 15 of the ignition switch. NOTE: you must use an lh2.4 ignition switch for this pinout to be accurate, also, make sure you are referencing the pin numbers on the switch, not on the connector. Hook this up to switched +12v at the fuse box?

2- gray/red wire, this goes to the A/C delay relay. UNUSED - NO AC

3- FAT yellow/red wire, the wiring diagram says fuse #6, but you can use any fused switched 12v source. Hook this up to switched +12v at the fuse box- Ideally where KJET used to power the fuel pump

4- green wire, goes to pin 14 of the ECU and connects to the A/C system. UNUSED - NO AC

5- blue/black wire, goes to pin 6 of connector 31 on the instrument cluster. (big round connector) - Will require a speedo input as well

6- violet wire, goes to pin 34 of instrument cluster, shift indicator? UNUSED - NO SHIFT LIGHT

7- white/pink wire, pin 235 of instrument cluster, check engine light. Got it

8- small yellow/red wire, same location as pin 3. diagram says fuse #6, just find switched 12v. Switched 12V at fuse box. GOT IT

9- pink wire, not entirely sure where this goes.... best guess is pin 50 of ignition switch, starter circuit.... but I dont have it connected and my car runs MY NOTES SAY THIS IS CHECK ENGINE LIGHT?

10- red wire, runs from pin 4 of the ECU, and pin 5 of the EZK, and pin 3 of the fuel pump relay, to fuse #6. or just 12v. this powers the ECU/EZK and the fuel pump relay. ROGER - SWITCHED 12V AT FUSEBOX

11- red wire, same as pin 10. - ROGER - SAME 12V AT FUSE BOX AS PIN 10

the 5 wires needed to make it RUN, are pin 1 blue wire, pins 3 and 8 with the yellow/red wires, and pins 10 and 11 with the red wires.

Click to expand...

I got a chance to get some more recent practice on the 2.4 swap this weekend. It was about the 5th successful install I have done, so I have it down pretty well now. I updated first post again.


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D.E said:

These are the wires I was wondering about. The blue one, the red one and the one I'm holding. They're part of the same branch.

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Ok so this weekend I got some more practice. That BLUE wire in the plug you hold is what LH2.4 240's use to POWER UP THE COIL. You can chose to use this plug, OR simply a wire directly to the coil instead. To do it cleanest, you should get a plug to match this one, and add 12v with ignition on and it will power up your coil for you! Red/white is OUT to cluster to make the tach work.

Back from the dead. Thinking of doing this on my '81 without swapping the later axle/housing. How high will the car idle w/o the speed signal? 1500 rpm?

Tom Wiley said:

Back from the dead. Thinking of doing this on my '81 without swapping the later axle/housing. How high will the car idle w/o the speed signal? 1500 rpm?

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It will bounce back and forth if you use the stock idle air control valve (IAC), but this will only happen after you run it hard and come to a stop. If you cycle the ignition, it will go back to being "normal". It's more annoying than anything.

You can also remove the IAC and use a needle valve in its place, or use the TB from a LH2.2 car which has an integrated idle-speed adjuster with a needle valve. You can also just block the nipple off and set the idle speed with the throttle body adjustment. You will probably need to reset the TPS after each idle adjustment.

Interesting. Thanks for the info.

culberro said:

It will bounce back and forth if you use the stock idle air control valve (IAC), but this will only happen after you run it hard and come to a stop. If you cycle the ignition, it will go back to being "normal". It's more annoying than anything.

You can also remove the IAC and use a needle valve in its place, or use the TB from a LH2.2 car which has an integrated idle-speed adjuster with a needle valve. You can also just block the nipple off and set the idle speed with the throttle body adjustment. You will probably need to reset the TPS after each idle adjustment.

Click to expand...

Does the IAC function as it should in other conditions (cold start) without the speed signal? It's just the hunting idle after cruising at high revs, and it will continue until you turn off the car and restart?

I'm doing a conversion on an '81 and am finally almost done. Planning to run without the IAC for now. I'll report back if I learn anything of value to you guys.

Tfrasca said:

Does the IAC function as it should in other conditions (cold start) without the speed signal? It's just the hunting idle after cruising at high revs, and it will continue until you turn off the car and restart?

Click to expand...

Exactly.

When I didn't use an IAC, on cold PNW mornings I had to lightly keep my foot on the accelerator pedal to keep it running and still have a decent "hot" idle speed.
I was using an lh2.2 throttle body until the idle screw ejected itself under full boost pulling onto the freeway. The threads were all mangled, it was living on borrowed time.

culberro said:

Exactly.

When I didn't use an IAC, on cold PNW mornings I had to lightly keep my foot on the accelerator pedal to keep it running and still have a decent "hot" idle speed.
I was using an lh2.2 throttle body until the idle screw ejected itself under full boost pulling onto the freeway. The threads were all mangled, it was living on borrowed time.

Click to expand...

Good to know, thanks. I'll be using a 960 TB, and I'd like to keep the IAC for the cold start. So I guess I'll deal with the goofy idle until I can sort out the rear axle.

Ok, I'm starting to wire up my LH 2.4 stuff, into my 142 which previously had no EFI or electric fuel pumps.

-The main LH power wire is connected via its inline fuse to constant 12v at the stud on the starter.

-The coil has switched power.

-I wired up the 4-pin connector on the engine bay side to provide the starter solenoid signal, amp exciter/light, oil pressure dummy light, and coolant temp gauge. All gauges work as they should when the key is turned to ON, and the motor will turn over.

-I'm working on the 9-pin connector inside the car, near the fuel system relay and the ECUs. It's all been pretty well documented, but I have some specific questions. Currently, I just have the red/black hooked to switched 12v, and when I turn on the ignition, the relay will click and provide momentary 12v to the thick red/yellow for the fuel pumps. This is good.

Main questions now are:

Do I need to give the blue/yellow starter wire cranking 12v at the 9 pin connector if I already have cranking 12v at the starter solenoid via the engine bay connector?

Why don't I have a blue/black speed signal wire?

The red/black wire, when given switched 12v, primes the fuel relay. Do I also need switched 12v for the blue wire?