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Microsquirt 16v+t

Ha! I'd read that wrong too. Eyes just stopped at "crank" I guess. Josh, maybe drop "crank" and leave pulley? or replace crank with "main" or "lower" or something? Just a thought.

Being wrong is human, admitting it afterward and apologising shows character and strength. Good on you.
 
Its important to get the lower and upper brackets for the swap , as the angles are different. I'm told the engine should sit at the same height. That is yet to be discovered.

The motor will sit at the same height if you use the 7 series solid mounts. Going for two of the right side 240 diesel mounts will raise it about half an inch.
 
Made a little progress. Bolted on head and .036 cometic gasket.

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New mounts, mount brackets, and filter relocation.

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Swan in a cast.

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Need to trim hood again, moved engine forward a touch.


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Thanks to all who have served, and to their families, for their sacrifices.
 
Its stainless steel, has a mild steel square tube to brace both the wastegate and turbo side load from t4 flange -wastegate flange, down to manifold mating to block flange. Having four individual runners helps support it as well. I need to run another brace from number four runner up to the side of the t4 flange, for front to back load , I reccon. Then I may do something fancy, like metal spider webbing for added strength, cred points :p



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A few new things. More bracing on manifold as promised, along with a modified candle holder I bought off ebay-spider web, for theme points. New fuel door. New corner lens. New seats, I repainted , that were originally grey, I used "Angelus" paint , weight reduction on passengers side with manual seat. New door tray on passenger side. Added a piston and rod on back hitch, maybe, I can fit in the white block crowd now..Shes alive with thinner head gasket.Installed New Yoshifab crank gear and stickers. Drove her yesterday . Stalled it three times, relearning how to drive standard. Needs some re-tuning .Had some bolts come loose on flywheel, last week. Had me worried for a minute. Used new bolts, lock tighted the threads and head of the bolts, and shot em back in hard core with my 700ftlb impact. No cares. If they come out again, I will safety wire the dam things. Need to slowly upgrade other things like the intake manifold and the rear axle to 8.8. For now it's just slow motion, more break in miles, and see what breaks next. Now for the pictures.Last pic is of screw i put through the back side of both corner lens , after drilling a hole- to insure they don't mysteriously disappear again.

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Regardless if people think it's stupid, or cool, the reaction is always a smile. Understood about turbo placement, to each their own! Thanks Mueller!

Those big back tires really go through sand effortlessly. So many people got stuck around us when we finally found a spot to park. I wasn't trying to throw sand on everyone , like most of the trucks and jeeps were doing, just taking it easy.

Fun tip for people that don't know. Always take a bucket and shovel with you. Soft sand is what you get stuck in.Most people forget to let air out of their tires to better grip the sand and widen the footprint of the tires. No big deal, but if you do get stuck, Dig front and rear tires out a touch, straighten front wheels, then put two buckets of water, in the direction you want to go-under each tire, and make a wet path. Wait a couple of minutes and it will come right out. Water hardens soft sand. I have used this trick, a few times , and jaws drop all around at the gazers , because it works every time. Just fyi from experience, being blessed , with being near many beaches.

P.s. Beach sand is the best fertilizer one can get. High in calcium from sea shells, and very fertile, because of fish pooh and death from the ocean. Use 1/3 parts sand (has to be cut), 2/3 parts soil, make 1/2 inch layer on top of potted plants so vermin bugs don't dig through to eat roots. I love growing stuffs and building stuffs. Pass it on!

Have fun and be safe out there!
 
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I bought a cheap dash cam off ebay. After 2 days the speaker broke and had horrible distortion. So i added a powered speaker from Frye's and wired, and soldered it in.I also did some customizing to the grille of the car, and added a shift light. Cant wait to upgrade this front end.
































 
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Yeah, still no dyno numbers. Ran a 2010 camaro 6 speed 6.2 litre LS3 that makes 426hp from the factory, plus the owner added a vortech supercharger to it and intercooler, exhaust and some others things (he twisted two axles at txt2k). He was at 6 or 7 psi. I was at 24.5. First time my ignition broke up a little bit and a few other lame excuses, but he was clearly faster, the second time i brake boosted in third gear and pulled him pretty good, until i hit fourth gear and broke the input shaft on the t56. He came back to make sure everything was ok. Real cool guy, real cool car. So here's the video , the carnage pics, and the pics of his build. Hes a tech at local ferrari dealer.


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My buddy Peter Showed up randomly as i was waiting for tow truck to take this picture.

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New shaft is around 170 to 250 bux, then a new bearing and bearing cover. Very possible something was outta whack , or out of line in there. Will see when i disassemble it. Owner of camaro estimates power on his car between 500 and 660 hp.
 
These dam concrete grooved roads are the devil. Every time i get on one, i break something. Look at the direction of the grooves.
 
Here's the carnage pics.

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100mph going into fourth-HARD, triple disc solid disc , unsprung. Not the best selection of clutch.Not the best driving technique for this setup. Gonna go with a AMP hardened 26 spline shaft , and new bearing case and collar for throwout bearing. Clear to see nose of input shaft is aligned perfectly to pilot bearing. Also clear to see that there was no chaffing on either section of broken input shaft to throwout bearing collar .Clutches are fine and aligned, no galling or anything suspect on splines. Input bearing into trans has no play and is fine. This was not a alignment issue. This was a intense shock issue. Possibly a bad shaft issue, the metal looks porous in some sections. Probably will put the other two matching wheels that are on the front of the car on the back to let the weak link be the rubber. Car hooks too hard with the 245x19. Obviously, one g80 later and one t56 input shaft later, both destroyed on a roll. Its pretty safe to say the car is motivated decently. I have yet to drop the clutch once from a standstill, or do a smokey burnout from a stop. From a roll i have done it a few times, but just from rolling into boost. Can't believe i broke this part. Shrug .
 
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