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Pig: '79 242 16vT

Another quick update. Went to the races after IPD, along with Simon, the Twins, and Gary. Fastest run was a 13.8@100.4. Was fighting boost control issues all night where I lost boost after torque peak (down to gate pressure) and would only see it recover to target pressure by redline, effectively killing off 1500 RPM of power band. Still, got into triple digits, which is nice considering it was done with less boost than last year.

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And a video that Carl took:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/wiEZDuxl_NE" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Another quick update. Went to the races after IPD, along with Simon, the Twins, and Gary. Fastest run was a 13.8@100.4. Was fighting boost control issues all night where I lost boost after torque peak (down to gate pressure) and would only see it recover to target pressure by redline, effectively killing off 1500 RPM of power band. Still, got into triple digits, which is nice considering it was done with less boost than last year.

oVGXnxnh.jpg


And a video that Carl took:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/wiEZDuxl_NE" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Youre down to TLAO chips and 52lb injectors on 2.4 territory. NICE!
 
Hooooo boy, lots to catch up on here. First: my heater core blew up. Took advantage of this to install a metric boatload of insulation, a late model HVAC box, lots of wiring cleanup, did away with the resistor pack for the blower motor and replaced it with a PWM controller. On top of that, I swapped in a Turbo headliner, with more insulation on the roof. Found some minor rust around the rear window seal; sanded down, hit it with rust converter, then primer. Car was more livable during the summer, as the interior was significantly cooler under the many days of 90-100 degree weather and hot turbo engine bay.

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Next order of business: wheels. While living in the city and having only street parking led to some mishaps. Plus I wasn't happy with the color of the wheel centers and the finish had gotten tarnished over time. Broke out the winter wheels and got my ass to work. Sent centers in for recoat in slightly brighter/yellower gold with a thick clear coat. Lips were sanded with 150->220->400->800->1000->1500->2000->3000, followed by compound. For the really bad stuff I used angle grinder polishing wheels to flatten out the material. Final buff was done with Blue Magic Polish on a hard cotton wheel, and sealed with Chemical Guys Max Wheel Guard. Jury is out on whether Chemical Guys actually works. Bought it along with a bunch of other detailing supplies from them and have been somewhat disappointed by the results so far.

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Looks so good! Did the better insulation in the dash and roof help with noise? I have been trying to figure out what thickness to get and where to put it? I mean the entire cabin is desirable, but not necessarily cost effective. Excited to see it all in person! Sounds like you and the other local TBrickers need to come down/up and break in the new house. The Wife would string us all up if we raided the house now as we're all still in boxes.
 
Engine bay noise was drastically reduced. Wind and driveline noise are the biggest sources for my car, and I am still researching what can be done as far as door gaskets. Driveline...I'm not sure. Probably a new driveshaft.


I covered 30-50% of bare metal with this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZ5X7KO

Then as close to 100% coverage with this on top of the film-backed butyl:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074V7Z262/

You could go with way thicker foam, but used this due to space constraints. I'll get the really thick stuff for the back of the cabin and trunk.
 
Couple things happened next:

1 - massive blowby. WTF I thinks to myself. 15 PSI low on #1. Pulled head, found some scoring on the #1 cylinder wall (eventually found some compressor wheel debris in the intercooler, so I'm attributing the damage to that. Gave the unit a good rinse with thinner until nothing else was left inside). Evened out pistons, filled pistons with oil, left them in place for a week. All leaked the same. Found that a couple valves were leaking, so I fixed those. Found a broken retainer, so I upgraded from the EMPI stuff that RSI used to the much stouter-looking Bugpack brand. Reasembled, re-tested compression. Everything is good again. Blowby hasn't happened again so :e-shrug:

2 - Clutch was killing my leg. Tate donated a 5/8" Wilwood compact master Cylinder. One brake hardline, one hardline to -3AN fitting later, and the clutch it much nicer to use. Bite point has a lot of room, and the firewall doesn't groan anymore. Win.

3 - Installed some BNE comfort torque rods. They are comfy.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/qhZIeoRPvr0?rel=0&showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

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Engine bay noise was drastically reduced. Wind and driveline noise are the biggest sources for my car, and I am still researching what can be done as far as door gaskets. Driveline...I'm not sure. Probably a new driveshaft.


I covered 30-50% of bare metal with this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZ5X7KO

Then as close to 100% coverage with this on top of the film-backed butyl:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074V7Z262/

You could go with way thicker foam, but used this due to space constraints. I'll get the really thick stuff for the back of the cabin and trunk.

I been using Dynamat/Dynaliner on my stuff with excellent results but **** adds up with too many cars. I think I will try it on the Amazon.

For door gaskets I been playing around with Mercedes seals, thick rubber covered with felt, w124 era. Doors close with a little extra force. It fits but I am yet to drive with it since car is down and I need to get a 16v in it etc Wind factor is big on the 240s. windshield especially

keep up the good twerk
 
Next: Come June after the last IPD Garage Sale, my buddies and I were discussing the issues I have been having with boost control. We determined that either the turbine wheel on the GTX is too small, or the internal gate wasn't enough, or the ATP turbine housing may not be doing my engine any favors. I decided to do a proof of concept by buying an Ebay 3071, and to put an eBay external gate; the same that Homer is using. Also swapped on some Siemens Deka 80s.

Oh yeah, I also swapped a 160A DR44 alternator. The Bosch 100A off a 940 was starting to let me down.

Impressions:

1. The turbo, while advertised as a "3071" (this is going strictly by measuring the wheels) is actually an odd hybrid of a Garrett 30 series turbine, with a Borgwarner S200 compressor. Spools about the same as the GTX2860R did. I'll get a nicer turbo in due time. So far it has given me no problems.
2. The wastegate is another story altogether The valve got seized to the stem halfway into a trackday. I replaced it with a genuine TiAL 38mm. Added a little supertrapp muffler to keep things civil.
3. I need to revise my fuel pump wiring again. Injector duty cycle is at 75%...I highly doubt the car is making 350whp right now.

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This thing had me spoiled. I need to have my Recaros redone soon…

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I been using Dynamat/Dynaliner on my stuff with excellent results but **** adds up with too many cars. I think I will try it on the Amazon.

For door gaskets I been playing around with Mercedes seals, thick rubber covered with felt, w124 era. Doors close with a little extra force. It fits but I am yet to drive with it since car is down and I need to get a 16v in it etc Wind factor is big on the 240s. windshield especially

keep up the good twerk

Thanks for the tip. That's really good to know.
 
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