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YASVT (Yet Another Sixteen Valve Turbo) - now 16V Whiteblock (LS)

PS: I got it to that 99.5% point of completion last night. Everything done, fluids all added. Battery reconnected. Turned on the key, lights all came on. Went to crank it (low tension coil lead pulled off, crank 'til I see oil pressure)...
...
..
.
And nothing. No clicks, lights didn't dim, just nothing. I must have a wire off somewhere. I did double check quickly that the wire was on the starter terminal, and it was. It was late, I was tired, I just left that little bit of troubleshooting for this evening.

Do you have a clutch safety switched wired up? Terminals tight on the battery? Big wire tight on the starter? The starter trigger wire go through the factory ECU or anything? Does voltage drop when you turn the key?

Looks to be a pretty amazing car, you will be proud of this one.
 
Do you have a clutch safety switched wired up? Terminals tight on the battery? Big wire tight on the starter? The starter trigger wire go through the factory ECU or anything? Does voltage drop when you turn the key?

Looks to be a pretty amazing car, you will be proud of this one.

I haven't really changed anything on the engine wiring or ECU or trans front. It already had the T5 swap, already had the starter circuit looped there. No clutch switch. It has a trunk mounted battery, with the 12V+ coming in to the starter terminal, and the rest of the car powered from there. Dome lights didn't dim when I turned the key, so it's not just a dead battery.

I'm sure it's something simple, I was just done for the day.
 
Great Success! /Borat

Well, discovered that there are two spade terminals on the starter, and one of them doesn't do diddly when you put 12V to it. The other, however, makes it crank.

Cranked it around until I saw a blip of oil pressure on the gauge, then went and plugged in the coil. Cranked it over a few times, it chuffled a little. I opened the throttle and it started right up. Clattered very loudly for a little bit. Wouldn't idle very well. AFR's were a little high. Got a bunch of smoke off the turbo and manifold. Then the clattering subsided and it sounded pretty good.

And just like that I have to leave it for until Sunday, going camping and doing trail maintenance. But it's running! Which is some high percentage of the battle, now it's just some (a bunch of) tuning.
 
Mine was still from the 8V. I think I need something a lot 'smaller'.

I just stole the 16V map from this post: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=1989294&postcount=8

And I'll try that out tomorrow. I drove mine around fairly gently for about 50 miles today, doing some datalogging and tweaking. So far I have to say it doesn't feel that much different than it did before. But I'm not going above 5psi or so until I get the fuel map in pretty good shape.
 
I'm having trouble with a messy rpm signal now. Lots of instantaneous upward spikes, the occasional downward spike. Makes the car rather sputtery. I'm treating it very gingerly until I get that figured out.
 
Still sputtering a lot. I've noticed it's bad (very bad) when the car is cold, and it seems to mostly clear up when the car gets warmed up (well warmed up, after about 10 minutes of driving). And when it's doing it a lot it seems to be worst around 3000 - 3500 rpm under a modest load. Almost undriveable t times, with the real tach jumping around, and the MT tach showing instantaneous spikes up to roughly double the rpm and then back.

Very frustrating. I bypassed my MSD box, no change. I don't think it's the crank sensor, although I may take that off and swap it just for grins. But I just suspect some other source of voltage spikes is causing mischeif.

I do have a potential lead on the issue though, the other day it was idling (cold, just started up) and it died. Like it sometimes does. But MT showed the engine as still limping along, at around 50 rpm. With some clicking and various sounds coming from the motor. Sounded like relays clicking, perhaps some sparks, perhaps some injectors firing. I just shut off the key and it stopped, but I think that perhaps if I can recreate that, then start unplugging things under the hood until it stops that it might help me isolate the culprit. If it can keep clicking along at 50 rpm without the motor running, I'd imagine it could be doing something similar with it running as well.
 
I just saw this thread. Congrats on getting it running John! Great work all the way through the build. I'm dead from the neck up when it comes to tuning. I've got to get my car running right. Hopefully we can have a TNT night before the end of July, that's when our kid's due. I'll keep an eye on this thread. I'm looking forward to seeing it in person.
 
It runs fairly decently once fully warmed up.

I didn't know you guys were having a kid. Congrats!
 
It runs fairly decently once fully warmed up.

I didn't know you guys were having a kid. Congrats!

Ha. My car runs ok cold but once warmed up, it idles pretty rough. Hopefully I'll have some time over the next few weeks to get some troubleshooting done on it. It hasn't run right since I put the cam in. I've replaced a bunch of stuff and checked and double checked cam timing. If I can get it running right and then open up the exhaust and get the boost spiking under control, I'll be happy with it for now. It would be great to get it into the 13's this summer. I'm saving up for some major work, we'll see how that goes with the baby... I want to get some rust fixed and go the T6 route for the engine.

Thanks for the congrats. Our little girl is due at the end of July. We're excited.
 
Put some 1000cc injectors on it last night (racetronix). Massaged it with MT until it ran decently. no problems with idling, I can lean it out at idle so I'm not really running into any sort of min opening time issue with these firehoses. Next up, run out the rest of the 93 octane (1/4 tank) and fuel up on E85 and put some more effort into tuning.

I unplugged my boost controller (I have a diode on it to absorb nasty spikes from the GM boost solenoid, but perhaps it failed). Bypassed the MSD box. And stuck in the old Bosch coil and went for a drive. Barely any RPM spikes and sputtering *at all*. Plugged the MSD box back in partway through the drive and it stayed good. but it was already a little warm, so not really a good test.
 
John, Would you be a good fellow and post me your MSQ? Your setup is relatively close to mine.


brett at sequencelabs dot net
 
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