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Microsquirt 16v+t

I replaced the tail lights on the Black Widow today, and added a 16 v badge. Cleaned it up, started it and let it idle for 3 minutes and took temp of a/c .

Old tail lights.
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New /used tail lights off 16 valve 745.New lights and new wheels really set a car off ya know? Wish i had new wheels but i can't find anything i like that i can afford. Shrug.

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Ac is cold, at negative 4 degrees F!! Used 89 compressor off 240.*update-laser temp gun sucks, use thermometer-false reading.
 
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You Guys are right, 9 volt battery was dead, and even then it reads 20 degrees colder than my digital (meat thermometer) a/c gauge. Actual reading is 38 degrees F.
I will come by DNAsEqUeNcE. Need to get that BEGI Intake manifold of your cleaned up and ready, and get some dyno toons ;) .*Update* i don't mess with this guy anymore, My opinion, he's more Drama than Jerry Springer, and about as reliable as the weather, for me anyways, don't need the hassle.
 
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I like you now. I never hated you but I was wondering were and if the manic-ness of your online persona translated into real car work. Hats off to you!
 
Are you sure your O2 sensor placement gives you accurate readings?

I know when I had an open downpipe, I would get erroneous lean readings. Granted, my sensor was like 8" away from the outlet.
 
Thanks BillyMaysHere.

T8fanning , it seems to be working fine, i haven't had any issues with it since i put the tractor flap on. There was a bit of moisture that got in there when it rained , and fried two of the previous sensors. Even without the tractor flap it registered fine, BUT, it is a a wide band 02 sensor. Not sure if it makes a difference.

I did have a massive oops moment . Pretty embarrassing. Some times , we are our worst enemies. I data logged a few runs yesterday. Got back home and forgot about it. Checked out the data logs this morning and according to the log, it said i was only running 3.2 psi and 122 kpa..So i instant messaged Linux , and he told me to look for leaks in the map sensor line. I was reading 20 psi on the boost gauge and trying to hold the car straight through two lanes over 15psi, which seemed ...Well, not normal! SO, i pulled out my bicycle pump with a boost gauge ziptied to it and made sure map was working..Here is a video..

https://www.facebook.com/kris.d.weldy/videos/10206024420441131/


And a touch of the data log of the test.


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It appears in my haste of vacuum hose routing i somehow (SMH) used two " t" fittings to splice the fuel pressure regulator and the map sensor , and these two plastic lines going into the firewall(BIG mistake!).
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If memory serves correct, one of the plastic lines goes to the heater valve (that i don't use) and the other goes to the climate control. Well i guess the heater valve hose blew off under the dash and became a permanent leak, there for, giving me false readings and locking my car down at 33 degrees advanced timing at 20psi max boost! UGHH!! Nothing got hurt, but my pride. Good thing i was running e 85 and good thing i didn't set my foot into it all the way, the logs showed i was only at 75% throttle, while dancing the tail end and lifting. No wonder. Thanks to Linux for the instant message support,he recommended finding the leak, instead of argueing there wasnt one, i went and verified, that of course there was! I found the culprit, which was myself. Never fun.Thanks Kenny you may have saved me a bunch of money today. And even more labor.I still cant believe i made such an idiot mistake. Ah well.
 
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Well, did some driving last night, some data logging, talked to Kenny some more. Looks like I'm out of injectors on just waste gate spring (boost controller off). This is still the 61/62 turbo. Car is a riot! Spins , i pedal, get back in it, spins again. Boost is laggy,(i can add some timing lower in the rpm range to ramp it up, but haven't yet) but when it hits, its pretty gnarly.Look how fast the rpms climb and how fast the boost goes from 1psi to 20. Here's a snip of the data log, top left corner in green is duty cycle at 96% on 1000cc and walbro 450lph fuel pump. E85, and alcohol kit that can be turned up a little more but i don't want to rely on it, as i finally had a jet clog up on it, and changed to a larger jet. First problem in two -almost three years with that kit. https://www.facebook.com/kris.d.weldy/videos/10206031115288498/
 
haltechsupra said:
Well, did some driving last night, some data logging, talked to Kenny some more. Looks like I'm out of injectors on just waste gate spring (boost controller off). This is still the 61/62 turbo. Car is a riot! Spins , i pedal, get back in it, spins again. Boost is laggy,(i can add some timing lower in the rpm range to ramp it up, but haven't yet) but when it hits, its pretty gnarly.Look how fast the rpms climb and how fast the boost goes from 1psi to 20. Here's a snip of the data log, top left corner in green is duty cycle at 96% on 1000cc and walbro 450lph fuel pump. E85, and alcohol kit that can be turned up a little more but i don't want to rely on it, as i finally had a jet clog up on it, and changed to a larger jet. First problem in two -almost three years with that kit. https://www.facebook.com/kris.d.weldy/videos/10206031115288498/
Click to expand...

are you running stock fuel pump wiring?
 
No. I tried that for a while using the stock fp/ig relay, then that thing broke, so i used a 35 amp relay and re wired from scratch, like i should have done to begin with. I eliminated the inline factory pump.
 
If i may ask, why Oldschoolvolvo ?

I thought I had same gauge on both sides but after I went and looked at my wire spools I found they didn't match. Something else I need to stock up on.
 
because 14 gauge will carry whatever current you supply it with and the 12 gauge ground can handle it. however lets say you were feeding a ungodly amount of current through a 12 gauge wire and grounding the - side with a 14 gauge. you COULD run into issues. however the pump can only draw so much current i doubt even if you had it the opposite way it would never cause a issue.
 
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