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tfrasca's 142 Turbo Project

Slosh on long sweepers is hard to combat. I had the same issue with my autocross Bug, with both the fuel and the oil in the (shortened!) Subaru oil pan. It's easy to deal with on small curves, but as soon as you hold the car on a sweeper for a few seconds, it starves pretty quick.

The best thing I found to deal with it was a swirl pot welded to the bottom of the tank. I just had a 3" diameter pipe about 6 inches tall welded onto the tank with a cap welded on the bottom, and then welded inlet and outlet fittings to the pipe for the fuel feed and return, that way the returned fuel is filling the swirl pot. It was 55superbeetle's idea and he welded mine up for me. It's still possible to starve it, just much less likely. I would post a pic, but it's on Photobucket so it's being held hostage.
 
slammed145 said:
Slosh on long sweepers is hard to combat. I had the same issue with my autocross Bug, with both the fuel and the oil in the (shortened!) Subaru oil pan. It's easy to deal with on small curves, but as soon as you hold the car on a sweeper for a few seconds, it starves pretty quick.

The best thing I found to deal with it was a swirl pot welded to the bottom of the tank. I just had a 3" diameter pipe about 6 inches tall welded onto the tank with a cap welded on the bottom, and then welded inlet and outlet fittings to the pipe for the fuel feed and return, that way the returned fuel is filling the swirl pot. It was 55superbeetle's idea and he welded mine up for me. It's still possible to starve it, just much less likely. I would post a pic, but it's on Photobucket so it's being held hostage.
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Yeah, I'm wishing I had run the return to the inside of the baffle box, but I read that returning fuel can be frothy and cause cavitation for the pickup. Honestly, I think the slickest solution is one of those hyper absorbent mats that lays in the tank. I had already cut a huge access window in the top of the tank - I should have installed one of those mats and then bolted the access closed instead of welding it. Oh well. At least my minimal oil pan baffling seems to be doing the trick so far.
 
I would think that even if the return fuel was frothy, the froth would sit at the top while fuel is pulled from the bottom of the tank. The aeromotive thing is designed to dump it all back into the baffled area.
 
AndrewNance said:
I would think that even if the return fuel was frothy, the froth would sit at the top while fuel is pulled from the bottom of the tank. The aeromotive thing is designed to dump it all back into the baffled area.
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Yeah, I'm sure it's fine. This is one of those cases of me reading one thing on the internet and deciding that it must be so.
 
cwdodson88 said:
Fuel pump hole? You can stuff that foam through some small holes. I fit a 8x8x8 piece with a 4" cylinder cut in the center through a 2" hole.
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I don't have an in tank pump, but I guess I could fit some through the sender hole. I'd just be concerned with loose foam interfering with the sender's movement.
 
I went back through your build. So at this point, to stop starvation, a swirl pot/surge tank is the only way I see to help. Small low pressure pump from the tank to the pot, high pressure to the rail, return to the pot, overflow from the pot to the tank. You can T the wiring for the pumps, just up the fuse by 2a or so. Mine works great pulling from the unbaffled 122 tank. I would say 2liters is the smallest I'd go. And facet carb pumps work great.
 
cwdodson88 said:
I went back through your build. So at this point, to stop starvation, a swirl pot/surge tank is the only way I see to help. Small low pressure pump from the tank to the pot, high pressure to the rail, return to the pot, overflow from the pot to the tank. You can T the wiring for the pumps, just up the fuse by 2a or so. Mine works great pulling from the unbaffled 122 tank. I would say 2liters is the smallest I'd go. And facet carb pumps work great.
Click to expand...

This is probably what I'll do. I went through all that trouble just to keep the floor of my trunk useable and free of hoses, so I'd rather not put the swirl pot in there. I'll see about fitting it under the car.
 
This damn car has been a real pain in the ass lately. I had a leaking RMS due to a ****ty Elring seal and probably too much crankcase pressure. Pulled the trans and replaced all the gaskets on that, since they were all leaking. Got all of that back together only to find out that there is still a slight leak from what I think is the oil pan to RMS housing area. And, my overdrive no longer works. The solenoid clicks on, but it won't engage OD.

Anyway, while the trans was out I decided to make damn sure that the PCV was up to par, so I installed a yoshi catch can and even the small vacuum line like a stock later model redblock. The PCV is now substantially better than stock. I'll do a leak down test this weak to see what else may be going on. Here you can see the Yoshi can and hoses cluttering up my engine bay:



I also tried to fit a 240 diesel air box in there to quiet down the turbo/bypass valve. But there was no way it would fit. I looked around and found this K&N "air box", which is really just an open filter with an injection molded plastic cover. I don't like the way it looks, but it quieted things down substantially, and that's a win.



After buttoning up all of the above, and being pretty bummed about the lack of OD and the persistent oil leaks, I woke up to a trunk full of gasoline this morning. Easy fix, as it's just the 48 year old overflow hose that cracked. But still...



This week/weekend, I plan to do a leak down test, check valve clearances, change oil to 10w40 or 15w40, and maybe try to find a place for the remote oil filter set up I have.

Hopefully ClassicSwede can get me the short shocks I ordered soon, because I've been putting off an exhaust appointment until then. My rear springs are short enough to fall out when completely unweighted, and I don't want to have to explain that to a muffler shop and expect them to carefully lower the car while re-aligning the springs.
 
oldschoolvolvo said:
BTDT...:roll: annoying for sure.

Engine bay is so clean tho, great work. :volvo:
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Quite annoying. The cool thing is that there's no chance I'm pulling the transmission in my driveway anytime soon. If it leaks, it leaks until I sort out the T5 or Getrag swap.

And thanks. I get bummed every time I have to bolt more stuff into the engine bay, but I guess it still looks pretty clean.
 
I would use limiting straps to stop the springs from falling out, not the shocks.

I like the "air box" solution, but am also partial to the bypass valve sound in my car.
 
Uncleknucklez said:
I would use limiting straps to stop the springs from falling out, not the shocks.

I like the "air box" solution, but am also partial to the bypass valve sound in my car.
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I thought about limiting straps. The factory used the shocks to keep the springs in, though, right? Also, it seems like short shocks are designed with a shorter stroke to match the shorter suspension travel. If I just compress stock length shocks, then they are always riding low in their stroke. Not sure how this would affect damping, but it could?
 
Tfrasca said:
I thought about limiting straps. The factory used the shocks to keep the springs in, though, right? Also, it seems like short shocks are designed with a shorter stroke to match the shorter suspension travel. If I just compress stock length shocks, then they are always riding low in their stroke. Not sure how this would affect damping, but it could?
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For sure go with short shocks to put the piston in the "sweet spot" of the stroke, but we are in the business of making these cars better right?

I'd go with straps, sure, the factory got away with putting the full weight of the rear on a set of $30 shocks, but I would protect my investment and go with some cheap-ish straps from Summit.
 
Uncleknucklez said:
For sure go with short shocks to put the piston in the "sweet spot" of the stroke, but we are in the business of making these cars better right?

I'd go with straps, sure, the factory got away with putting the full weight of the rear on a set of $30 shocks, but I would protect my investment and go with some cheap-ish straps from Summit.
Click to expand...

Ah, I get it.
 
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