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All you need to know about the M90

I don't think what you're suggesting would work anyway - I think the timing pattern is in the 'dished' section, so removing that to make a flat mating surface would remove the timing marks, or at least the bulk of them. I suspect that the mating surface on the TTV flywheel is actually further back than on the dished one...i.e. it's thicker as far as the mating surface, but without the dished section.

cheers

James
 
I don't think what you're suggesting would work anyway - I think the timing pattern is in the 'dished' section, so removing that to make a flat mating surface would remove the timing marks, or at least the bulk of them. I suspect that the mating surface on the TTV flywheel is actually further back than on the dished one...i.e. it's thicker as far as the mating surface, but without the dished section.<br />
<br />
cheers<br />
<br />
James
<br />


The trigger pattern is not on the dish section, but behind it.

<img width=500 height=300 src="http://static.petrisimolin.com/gallery/data/images/%A4Offi-Osku%A4-03072007585.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
 
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I take it all back :) I've been looking at them recently (swapping a B200 in a 360 on Renix with a 44-4 or similar pattern to a B230FT on LH2.4), but my mind must have been playing tricks! :rofl:

cheers

James
 
pics

Hi All,

the pics are missing at the sart of this topic in the instructions for welding up third gear synchro on M90, does anybody have another link or can repost pictures etc.....?

thanks
 
I have this picture from when I did it. It's pretty much all you need. It doesn't make much sense out of context but once you pull the tailshaft housing off the trans it will. :):

large.jpg


The only tricky part is you need a good 2 jaw puller to get the 4th gear assembly off.
 
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I'm just putting some new input and output seals in my M90 and decided to change the selector shaft seal too, but, I couldn't get it out, and as I didn't want to damage anything I decided to take the back cover off to make it easy.

So, can anyone recommend what sealant I should use to seal the two halves together again? And, what is the torque figure for the rear flange nut? Apologies if this has been covered somewhere in this thread.
 
I'm just putting some new input and output seals in my M90 and decided to change the selector shaft seal too, but, I couldn't get it out, and as I didn't want to damage anything I decided to take the back cover off to make it easy.

So, can anyone recommend what sealant I should use to seal the two halves together again? And, what is the torque figure for the rear flange nut? Apologies if this has been covered somewhere in this thread.

Reseal with anaerobic sealer. Dunno abut the flange - I would just put some loctite on it and crank it down. I would always just rattle it down with an impact.
 
Rear flange nut is 115 ft/lbs based on the green/blue manual. (Or thereabouts, I don't have the manual in front of me)
 
hello, would somebody tell me why am I not able to see the pics about the welding of the M90 3rd syncro. I need to do it these days and I remember that there were also pics on the first page where the details are. But now I see only text without pics.

thx,
 
thx, could you give me any more details, how to weld it, and if possible pictures, I'm not so familiar with swedish :).
 
Whoo, finally got round to installing the M90 in my 245 this weekend. It's only been sitting in the shed for 2 years. The box itself fits fine in the tunnel, no hammering required. I used the standard dog-dish flywheel and diesel clutch setup. LuK 623224000 has all the parts in one box, and they're actually Sachs branded parts in an LuK box.

The clutch pivot was spaced out 4mm with washers. The clutch bite is about 30% of the pedal's travel off the floor, which is just where I like it. It's a very light and smooth action, definitely an improvement over the M47, but that could just be due to everything being taken apart, cleaned and greased for the first time in 20 years and 150k miles. I'm using the standard 240 clutch hydraulics, all the way from the pedal to the slave cylinder. The 240 slave works perfectly with the M90.

The shift linkage and the arm that holds the shifter were shortened 100mm and welded, and a short shift kit from Craving Boost was installed. The top arm that holds the shifter also had to have the rear locating pin cut down to fit in the tunnel, and the bracket it locates in was cut down and re-drilled to be bolted to the existing captive nuts in the 240 tunnel. Shift feel is good, but there's a bit more side-to-side slop in the shifter than I'd like, it's actually got the same amount of slop as the 150k M47 I pulled out. I'm not sure what I can do about that as it appears to be in the actual box rather than the linkage, but we'll see.

The rear mount was custom-made for me by Peter of www.retroturbo.com (goes by 'silveruser' on here) in the same style as the Captain Bondo rear mount seen previously in this thread, it uses a standard M47 rubber mount and crossmember. He also made me a custom driveshaft spacer which lets the M47 driveshaft bolt up to the M90, and modified the M90 shifter to accept a standard M10 threaded gearknob as I didn't like the M90 knob.

The only other modification required was the bracket for the front exhaust hanger which is held on by the bellhousing bolts. It doesn't fit the M90 as is, 10 minutes love with hacksaw and file had it fitting fine.

Now I am going to crack a beer and wonder when I am going to stop hurting from wrestling the damn box up into the car while laying flat on my back on a brick driveway.
 
thx, could you give me any more details, how to weld it, and if possible pictures, I'm not so familiar with swedish :).

Have a look at the picture that says "svetsanvisning" under it. You tack weld the ring to the top of each gear tooth, exactly at the point the white pen is pointing at in that picture. That's all there is to it.
 
Hi, I am currently trying to save my 960 as the dual mass flywheel has failed & Volvo are not making replacements anymore. I have been trying to find detailed instructions for fitting an 850 T5 flywheel & clutch to my 1996 960 with a whiteblock 6 cylinder engine & found this forum thread, has anyone here done this conversion?
Will I need to put washers behind the pivot ball & extend clutch slave rod?
Do I need to use the release bearing from the 850 T5 clutch or the one from the 960?
Is there anything else I should know before I give it a try?

Any help on this will be most appreciated.
 
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Hi, I am currently trying to save my 960 as the dual mass flywheel has failed & Volvo are not making replacements anymore. I have been trying to find detailed instructions for fitting an 850 T5 flywheel & clutch to my 1996 960 with a whiteblock 6 cylinder engine & found this forum thread, has anyone here done this conversion?
Will I need to put washers behind the pivot ball & extend clutch slave rod?
Do I need to use the release bearing from the 850 T5 clutch or the one from the 960?
Is there anything else I should know before I give it a try?

Any help on this will be most appreciated.

Use the 850 release bearing. You may need to rig up a spacer for the slave pushrod/fork but that's a minor detail overall.

Other than that it'll work fine. The only other thing to confirm is that the single mass flywheel does note require shorter bolts than the dual mass (for attachment to the crankshaft).

Also you may need to swap the wires on the crank sensor if you get a flywheel with "dimples" instead of "teeth".
 
Use the 850 release bearing. You may need to rig up a spacer for the slave pushrod/fork but that's a minor detail overall.

Other than that it'll work fine. The only other thing to confirm is that the single mass flywheel does note require shorter bolts than the dual mass (for attachment to the crankshaft).

Also you may need to swap the wires on the crank sensor if you get a flywheel with "dimples" instead of "teeth".

Thanks for the advice, I have a flywheel already I may have imagined it but I think it has two rows of teeth around the outside, would the inner row be the trigger for the crankshaft if not where exactly should I look?
 
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