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245 Turbo seeks sensible performance upgrades

ryan350ci said:
You can pick up a tight(ish) rack at the yard, then buy a new seal kit for around $60 from rockauto.com or whatever your favorite parts house may be. It's not hard to do, just lay everything out in order as you pull it apart, same way you do a transmission.

Also I second what Canuck said about the chassis braces. Ben (kaplhenke.com) makes a killer unit for the strut towers, and Yoshifab makes a great set of lower braces. Both companies make several other chassis and suspension stiffening components. You can basically turn your 245 into a track ready ride with off the shelf components from those two companies, but it's up to you as to how far you want to take it.
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Thanks, Ryan. I picked up iPd's strut braces (https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5051/103611-gt-strut-braces) on sale last weekend so will try those first. They look quite flimsy compared with the trapezoidal units like Ben's so we'll see how that goes...

As for steering rack: while working on the tie rods, I jiggered the rack back and forth a few times and noticed some play, but it seemed pretty minimal (though I don't have a good comparison). There was also some play in the steer wheel to steering box coupling--- again, not sure what's normal there. At highway speed, there's still a distinct vibration in the steering wheel, though now it's much better than with new tie rods.

Does it make sense to pull the rack and put in new seals? Or is it better to just recondition a donor rack with new seals and put that in?
 
yeastbeast said:
Does it make sense to pull the rack and put in new seals? Or is it better to just recondition a donor rack with new seals and put that in?
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That all depends on you. If you can afford the downtime, which I assume isn't an issue, then you could pull the current one and rebuild it, or if you want to pull the rack twice, once at the yard and once at home, that's up to you. But if your current rack turns out to have, say, an unrepairible condition, you'll have to pull another one anyway.
My personal opinion is that it's always nice to have spares as long as you have room... and your wife doesn't make you sleep in the shed with the piles of spares that you will eventually accumulate:-D
 
ryan350ci said:
That all depends on you. If you can afford the downtime, which I assume isn't an issue, then you could pull the current one and rebuild it, or if you want to pull the rack twice, once at the yard and once at home, that's up to you. But if your current rack turns out to have, say, an unrepairible condition, you'll have to pull another one anyway.
My personal opinion is that it's always nice to have spares as long as you have room... and your wife doesn't make you sleep in the shed with the piles of spares that you will eventually accumulate:-D
Click to expand...
Yeah, I don't mind the downtime though my neighbors might :roll: Pulling and rebuilding the current rack is the easiest option but I don't want to put new seals on a busted rack and put it back only to have to redo the work with a new rack. Here's the question: any way to diagnose bad seals vs. bad rack (and possibly also bad seals) before taking it out?

And thanks again for your continued help. I'm learning a lot as I go.
 
I'm no expert on steering racks, but generally if it's a bad rack, it will be pretty obvious, such as it won't turn either direction or grinds when turning. If you rebuild with new seals it should tighten up a bit and will stop any leakage. The internals are fairly straight forward and you aren't putting too much force against the metals, so it's pretty rare to get a rack that can't be fixed by simply freshening it up.
 
I don't think the current one is too bad... turns easily, no grinding, just leaking fluid. I'll look into seal replacement.
 
Hi y'all,

After a year of life getting in the way, I'm finally ready to put the intercooler into my 245T. I just busted the timing belt and have the front end of the engine compartment disassembled, so this seems like a good time to do the work.

First thing is an inventory checklist. Judging by visual checklist, the kit that joeshu sold me is missing a few pieces. Unfortunately, the paper copy of the packing list doesn't label all the items, so I don't know what to call the missing ones and thus which ones to try to track down elsewhere. Does anyone have a link to the packing list and assembly instructions for the OEM IBS kit? K-jet.org appears to be down so the links posted by Redwood Chair in this thread (http://turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=323376) are dead.

Thanks!

yeastbeast
 
Finally did an inventory of the package I got from Joeshu almost a year ago... feel bad for not having opened the box sooner.

Looks like most of the hard to find stuff is there. Comparing with the parts diagram kindly posted above by Redwood, I'm missing the following:

- Package 2 #7: hose (P/N 942700-6) for expansion tank --- what size?
- Package 3 #3: bracket (P/N 1367045-0) for air pipe bend --- is this irregularly shaped silver thing in the center of that picture? Is it hard to find?
- Package 3 #4: gaskets (P/N 463766-6) for throttle housing --- presumably these are same as on current throttle housing?
- Package 3 #5: studs (P/N 924050-8) for throttle housing -- what size?

Any thoughts on how to find or improvise these missing parts?

Thanks!
 
2#7 Same size as you currently have.

3#3 yes 240 turbos are scarce in the Jy's now, and most folks forget / neglect to pull that piece.

3#4 yes same gaskets.

3#5 m 6x1 same as cylinder head valve cover studs but shorter, or use bolts.
 
It was about 27 years ago when I installed IBS-kit for a friend. New from the box, price was roughly 1000 $.

I would opt KL-racing modellanpassad cooler, even it is a bit expensive. With that you will get nicer IC-piping compared to universal model cooler. Kl-racing sells also pipe kit.
 
My 240 turbo is modified pretty much how kjets described. I have not changed the intake from stock but most everything else intake and exhaust wise is changed. It probably makes about 190 maybe 200 hp. When I had the stock intercooler with 11-12 psi the stock clutch gave up after about 10k miles. My clutch was upgraded a long time ago by HR clutch in Bensalem PA. Even now I only run about 12psi since I don't want to waste my M46. However with all these changes it is much more fun to drive at all rpm ranges.
 
Thanks again y'all for the help on the parts checklist. I continue to be blown away by how helpful and knowledgeable this community is.

It sounds like the hard-to-find part here is the turbo bracket (3#3). I've got an offer for one via PM and it sounds like Tuff240 has a couple -- what's a fair price?

Looking forward to doing install as soon as I get that timing belt on (changed the seals out last weekend). I'm sure I'll have many more questions when I'm in deep into it.

Meanwhile, here's a pic depicting progress on the front end --- modernized the headlight harness and swapped the rectangular headlights for round Cibies and Hellas (thanks Daniel Stern!).

3wGKvS3F_sMHrH5U_IyweHTe8jSSMddD3B3UnLtkZDhffpDkswBxaKTQxBxZy1cfgZABwcBGhnYKod3F6NneTqGbe3N1EMBO-ro6s7NkwjOD7QKfv8yJ3uPye8nubEIEUnXswuMoK-xDTlHLogr62lyS1esNFzjUPW_iNYYVJp8E_MHwE4FLHrG6yl10rEzpt6MSK5LLyZ-Etc3NrgZIOHkT9CcovVhLG6GFW65zIEM_87DLSlpCZGG-pPy0pMuFop4ZKlLHueImb3P2egTIR17S-ECItITVqempnZor0r3gPzDSH-0OoYuM16LPrvRPmnK6fM0lw8Z0GqmXl7qtluc9thRZeRbpNgMcCFh9EDr37fuZoLXrK-Fao3momZ_uUKHCme8e6u4T2HSOQ46T6wlRoxDuy1GTRB_yzPkImj9DrqGNfpby_snzvpZ-ihNbH1ucYOPobXVd5X5UyWCWOHXEv1BOFx-etatwB2JGn2rk9pw3KRFHFohgwj7G3DkULO9j2S4-o5hIuJZZdEN0CqOhN1kkvslwy1wcNQc2Z9wF7XkujTq7QnLxmsMMrCNo4HlFsiUm9nKw7eUdzW4cWIrJvjWpgqWSP9mk3PewBTDE3ZUvDc5yUQ=w879-h659-no
 
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