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MrBill's 78 244 Project: Drill Baby Drill!

why the engine replacement? did I miss something breaking? (oh and when is the real motor going in?)
If it's cheaper to do it once the right way, it's much cheaper to do it not the right way 5 times.

He's trying to install as many engines and transmissions as the car has had owners.

A blessing from Brett can only sustain so much before the redblock parts.

OK, I think I'm done for now.
 
Something broke on it. It cranked funny and spits the dipstick tube out.

All happed after it pinged at like 28 psi.

It ran fine, it was just slower and you could hear *missing* compression while craking. Never did a compression test because I'm a fat lazy ****.


Real motor - knox is almost done my intake and nathan will have my exhaust done in a week. RSI cams are down at Knox and are all shimmed up I'm told.

Now I need to go down there and assemble it. Hopefully a spring install.

ah yeah. knock at that high a boost... busted ring land(s). Sweet. just put the 16v in if it's that close to done.
 
I'm still teaching him how to do donuts. Need to work on that first. We'll have another lesson soon, hopefully.
 
you should be, doesn't mean you shouldn't go ahead and stuff it in
If I get the oil heater working in the garage, the motor will slide in this fall/winter/spring. I still need to figure out this john v flywheel setup with the 9.5 inch clutch. I also need to figure out the hydro clutch setup I've got. I don't want what hockey930 has.
That's what she said :cool:
ohhhhrite
I'm still teaching him how to do donuts. Need to work on that first. We'll have another lesson soon, hopefully.

Only tried once, it did make a donut.
 
Just ordered the AN fittings and stuff from summit.
I got the old motor on an engine stand last night. I pressure washed it and degreased it but it's still a mess. Tonight or tomorrow night I'll get the other one out of the wagon (where it's been for 3 months now).

I need to de-grease that one too, and then paint it and gasket it. Win.


I read somewhere that the Thomas Fritz guy suggested not using the stock turbo oil feed because it interrupts the main galley oil pressure or something.

He suggested using the oil pressure port. I think I wanna use the front blocked off port like on my b230f+t

Either way, I ordered:
some braided stainless line
an m14x1.5 to -4an adapter for the stock turbo feed. Worst case I'll block this off.
two -4an caps to plug different oil feeds if needed.
a 90* -4 hose to -4an fitting for the turbo end of the line
a striaght -4hose to -4an fitting for the block side of the line
some copper crush washers

Any of the other fittings are on the old motor and will be transported over.
 
I read somewhere that the Thomas Fritz guy suggested not using the stock turbo oil feed because it interrupts the main galley oil pressure or something.

He suggested using the oil pressure port.

Hmm, but if you use the oil pressure port, isn't there a chance of getting a glowing idiot light or low reading on a gauge? Didn't volvo thier ownselves take the turbo oil supply off the gallery or was a it a sub-gallery???????
 
yall worry too much

if john v saw this, he'd post the picture of the oil being fed from the remote filter, post cooler, post filter...clean & cool oil into the turbo. that's probably the 'best' method, but not worth changing everything you already have.

apply heat to that plug in the front, and to the block, tap the side of the block lightly with a hammer, use an allen key and tap it with a hammer, plug should come out relatively easily. i've done two that way for the lemons car....no problems yet, but nearly stripped the second one. it was a 6pt hex, kind of became a 12pt double hex when I was done with it.
 
I had to buy fittings regardless - and I like the front oil feed - it's easier to service than the one behind the oil cooler.

You'll be enlightened monday.

Steve - bring your car down for an in-person sound test.
 
Got some more done on the motor yesterday. I pulled the exhaust manifold off, to find that the upper stud on the #1 cylinder was broken. It wasn't broken when I installed it 6 months ago. The manifold is so warped I guess it snapped it during a heat cycle or something.

I'm taking it to a shop today to be milled. Gonna get the pipe and vband welded on the manfold for external gate, and gonna get the flywheel surfaced. I bought one of those penta flywheels. Surface as never been used because the outdrive bolts to the pressureplate holes (FTW!) It was $25

Beepee and I got the old stud out, chased the threads and I got another stud in there. I want to threadlocker it before it's in for good.

Tomorrow I plan on getting the replacement motor on a stand, doing the oil pump o-rings, pan gasket, RMS, front seals, breather box, etc.

I wont bolt the head on yet - I need to get the springs and stuff installed. I'm a little worried about this spring/keeper swap (the RSI stuff with the stg3 cam). I don't have the tool and I'm not sure what's gonna work and what's not gonna work.
 
It's just an 8.5 inch stock flywheel to replace my 9" dished turd I have now. It's just never had any friction applied to it.

So yes, it's racecar.
 
Okay so I'm posting this from the cellphone so bear with me I hope it looks okay
beepee came by Friday and we knocked some good stuff out on the motor. got the motor torn down and cleaned for paint. then I pulled the head from the old motor. I bought RSI stg3 cam and their springs and retainer package to install. when I pulled the lifters two of the valves just dropped out... the retainers were broken in half on two of the valves.

one and A half keepers are MIA.

we put the new springs and retainers in and took some keepers from beepee's junk head.

so what happened? Rev limiter was set to 7k IIRC but it rarely got there as the K cam ran out around 6800
IMAG0042.jpg

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