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Tb newb performance faq
- Thread starter 740atl
- Start date
+Kardboard+
Chinese guy/Swedish rides
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2008
- Location
- Vancouver, Canada
Would love to work on it. Maybe even host it since it seems to work better in a wiki format even...?
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2003
- Location
- Acworth, GA 30102
That seems like so long ago that we did that +t. I dont remember half that stuff.
It was a long time ago... 2004? or 2005?
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2002
- Location
- mont, AL
ah flashbacks to the past.
+Kardboard+
Chinese guy/Swedish rides
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2008
- Location
- Vancouver, Canada
Trying to convert and edit this into a wiki format. Hosting it on my own site space: http://moov4.net/TurbobricksWiki/
Example page: http://moov4.net/TurbobricksWiki/tiki-index.php?page=Why+You+Need+to+Know+What+Air-to-Fuel+Ratio+Is
Far from done, but as a wiki, please help out with it!
Example page: http://moov4.net/TurbobricksWiki/tiki-index.php?page=Why+You+Need+to+Know+What+Air-to-Fuel+Ratio+Is
Far from done, but as a wiki, please help out with it!
Damn! Looks great! (Great is not a good enough word.... phenomenal is a better fit).That's exactly what I was hoping to create in the first place but lacked any skill to do.
I'd really love to have someone or several someones' else take this over as I just don't have the time.... and I don't have any expertise in other areas to contribute. I still think this FAQ can be of real service to the newbs that come on board.... and to the non-newbs. I know we currently have a performance faq, but it's filled with outdated and often incomplete (dead links... maybe even dead members) information. Newbs should be able to come to the FAQ, get quick, concise, yet accurate information with links to read further if they so desired.
I also think if someone else does decide to take this over, that the content should be still be moderated such that only the most pertinent, non-opinionated type of information is delivered... rather than just becoming showroom v2.0. In other words, not everyone gets to contribute.
This would of course (and has) offend certain people that want... nay, demand to have their information and pictures posted... (there goes that 740atl being a dick again).
I'd really love to have someone or several someones' else take this over as I just don't have the time.... and I don't have any expertise in other areas to contribute. I still think this FAQ can be of real service to the newbs that come on board.... and to the non-newbs. I know we currently have a performance faq, but it's filled with outdated and often incomplete (dead links... maybe even dead members) information. Newbs should be able to come to the FAQ, get quick, concise, yet accurate information with links to read further if they so desired.
I also think if someone else does decide to take this over, that the content should be still be moderated such that only the most pertinent, non-opinionated type of information is delivered... rather than just becoming showroom v2.0. In other words, not everyone gets to contribute.
This would of course (and has) offend certain people that want... nay, demand to have their information and pictures posted... (there goes that 740atl being a dick again).
Last edited:
+Kardboard+
Chinese guy/Swedish rides
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2008
- Location
- Vancouver, Canada
All those things are possible with the wiki. 
OldGrandpaTune
The Road Warrior
- Joined
- May 7, 2013
- Location
- Rural Ohio
This is the most amazing thread I have ever seen (well in my noobish time here).
Thanks to all of the contributors. I can stop getting drawn and quartered by the trolls now.
Thanks to all of the contributors. I can stop getting drawn and quartered by the trolls now.
SEslayer
Dumber than I look.
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2013
- Location
- New Zealand
Love that Wiki!!!!
If these Wiki volunteers do what the format is capable of we need to add a lot more subjects to the index. Imagine a subject specific (Bricks) Wiki within a discussion forum. A lot more searchable format than Sticky's especially since eBulletin has such a weak 'search' function.
Steering racks is a hot topic with me at the moment.
Steering racks is a hot topic with me at the moment.
+Kardboard+
Chinese guy/Swedish rides
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2008
- Location
- Vancouver, Canada
Yeah, anyone should be able to join and contribute to the wiki right now! I just started a new job, so I don't have that much free time to update it right now.
mikep
Vintage Ride
- Joined
- May 24, 2003
- Location
- 38? 27' N 75? 29' W
someone notified me that the mitsubishi oil feed line is 1.5 thread.
I measured the one I have, it's 12mm x 1.5. Edited post to reflect that, but left the OP info as well. There might be 2 sizes.
I measured the one I have, it's 12mm x 1.5. Edited post to reflect that, but left the OP info as well. There might be 2 sizes.
+Kardboard+
Chinese guy/Swedish rides
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2008
- Location
- Vancouver, Canada
Oh yeah, and wiki wasn't allowed by my web host, so it's dead.
naterhater
Member
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2013
- Location
- Portland OR
How much can I cut my coils?
*If anything in this write-up is inaccurate, misleading, or just plain wrong, let me know*
**This is geared towards the RWD models as I am unfamiliar with FWD/AWD Volvo suspension**
***Neither Turbobricks nor myself accept responsibility for any accidents or damage that you cause on your own car under any circumstances***
Spring cutting is a topic that has a certain stigma surrounding it in most car communities. On any other forum, mentioning spring cutting will probably be the quickest way to be publicly shamed and trolled to no end. This is because many people attempt to cut springs of the wrong type or try to lower their car too much using this method.
Here on TurboBricks this is not the case. Many of us have cut our springs with no bad consequences and written about it in our build threads and other suspension related threads. The purpose of this write-up is to show you that with some common sense you can in fact cut the springs on your RWD Volvo to lower it somewhat.
First things first, there are a few different geometric designs for coil springs used in automotive suspension.
The springs on the right are both of the type that should not be cut. They do not have a uniform geometry and will not sit properly in their spring seats after removing either end. The springs on the left however can be cut. This is due to the fact that in both cases, at least 1 end has the same diameter as the rest of the spring and after cutting will sit the same way in the spring seat as the unmolested stock spring. In our RWD Volvo's both the front and rear springs essentially use the "Pigtail" geometry seen above where 1 end is wound to a smaller diameter but the other end is continuous and the spring has not been ground flat. This is what allows us to cut our springs safely. Coils can be removed from the uniform end of the spring.
Where and how should the springs be cut? On 200/700/900 cars the front springs are similar and coils should be removed from the bottom of the spring, the part that sits on the spring perch built into the strut housing. This picture shows the bottom coils removed from a 940 front spring.
In the rear of the 200 series, coils can be removed from the top of the spring, the end that is in contact with the frame. On the 700/900, coils can be removed from the bottom of the spring, where the spring sits in the trailing arm. This picture shows the bottom coil removed from a set of 940 rear springs.
The best way to cut your springs will be to completely remove them from the car and cut them using an angle grinder or other saw. I don't recommend using an oxy-fuel torch because it will, in effect, heat treat the remaining end of the spring and turn it into a hard and brittle steel rather than the spring steel it is supposed to be.
How much can I cut? It is generally recommended that you don't remove any more than 2-2.5 coils from the front springs. Removing more than this would not leave enough spring to stay seated when the suspension is at full droop. Either way, once you cut your springs you should not be hitting jumps in your car anyway because there is an inherent risk involved in modifying your perfectly good stock springs. Some people have also made their own tabs/brackets that bolt onto the spring perch and serve to hold the bottom of the front spring in its seat no matter what. This is highly recommended.
In the rear, the springs are held in more securely because of the fact that they are bolted to the frame or trailing arms. Therefore several coils may be removed. However it is uncommon for anyone to cut more than 3 coils out of the rear because doing so may lower the rear too far resulting in, "wheelie stance." The rear springs also have a "dead coil" at the bottom. This is a coil that does not compress but rather just sits in the spring seat. Once the dead coil is removed the rest of the spring will sit in the seat the same way.
Remember, you can always cut more if your first cut didn't lower the car enough.
Try removing 1 coil or half a coil at a time until it sits the way you want it.
But I want my car to be "slammed" without spending any money, what should I do? Remember when I mentioned common sense? This is the point at which you should ask yourself how good your idea really is. Cutting too much out of your springs will make them too short for them to remain in contact with the spring seats at all times and may lead to a situation where the springs become unseated during the extension of the suspension system. Even hitting a huge pothole or speed bump can be the same as hitting a jump when your springs are too short (Trust me, I KNOW) Use your head, if an idea sounds sketchy that's because it's probably really sketchy. If you want to roll with stance scene then your best bet is to save your money and buy coilovers.
Additional information
It is said that as a rule of thumb, your spring rate will increase 50lbs. per coil cut. Also, cutting your springs and continuing to use an old set of shocks will result in the shocks blowing out so it is wise to replace the shocks while you have your springs out so you don't have to take everything apart again later.
Below is a measurement I took before cutting my front springs:
Here is the same measurement taken after cutting 2 coils out of the front:
Your results may vary. I forgot to take pictures before cutting my rear springs.
Hopefully you found this useful. Have fun and remember, USE COMMON SENSE.
*If anything in this write-up is inaccurate, misleading, or just plain wrong, let me know*
**This is geared towards the RWD models as I am unfamiliar with FWD/AWD Volvo suspension**
***Neither Turbobricks nor myself accept responsibility for any accidents or damage that you cause on your own car under any circumstances***
Spring cutting is a topic that has a certain stigma surrounding it in most car communities. On any other forum, mentioning spring cutting will probably be the quickest way to be publicly shamed and trolled to no end. This is because many people attempt to cut springs of the wrong type or try to lower their car too much using this method.
Here on TurboBricks this is not the case. Many of us have cut our springs with no bad consequences and written about it in our build threads and other suspension related threads. The purpose of this write-up is to show you that with some common sense you can in fact cut the springs on your RWD Volvo to lower it somewhat.
First things first, there are a few different geometric designs for coil springs used in automotive suspension.
The springs on the right are both of the type that should not be cut. They do not have a uniform geometry and will not sit properly in their spring seats after removing either end. The springs on the left however can be cut. This is due to the fact that in both cases, at least 1 end has the same diameter as the rest of the spring and after cutting will sit the same way in the spring seat as the unmolested stock spring. In our RWD Volvo's both the front and rear springs essentially use the "Pigtail" geometry seen above where 1 end is wound to a smaller diameter but the other end is continuous and the spring has not been ground flat. This is what allows us to cut our springs safely. Coils can be removed from the uniform end of the spring.
Where and how should the springs be cut? On 200/700/900 cars the front springs are similar and coils should be removed from the bottom of the spring, the part that sits on the spring perch built into the strut housing. This picture shows the bottom coils removed from a 940 front spring.
In the rear of the 200 series, coils can be removed from the top of the spring, the end that is in contact with the frame. On the 700/900, coils can be removed from the bottom of the spring, where the spring sits in the trailing arm. This picture shows the bottom coil removed from a set of 940 rear springs.
The best way to cut your springs will be to completely remove them from the car and cut them using an angle grinder or other saw. I don't recommend using an oxy-fuel torch because it will, in effect, heat treat the remaining end of the spring and turn it into a hard and brittle steel rather than the spring steel it is supposed to be.
How much can I cut? It is generally recommended that you don't remove any more than 2-2.5 coils from the front springs. Removing more than this would not leave enough spring to stay seated when the suspension is at full droop. Either way, once you cut your springs you should not be hitting jumps in your car anyway because there is an inherent risk involved in modifying your perfectly good stock springs. Some people have also made their own tabs/brackets that bolt onto the spring perch and serve to hold the bottom of the front spring in its seat no matter what. This is highly recommended.
In the rear, the springs are held in more securely because of the fact that they are bolted to the frame or trailing arms. Therefore several coils may be removed. However it is uncommon for anyone to cut more than 3 coils out of the rear because doing so may lower the rear too far resulting in, "wheelie stance." The rear springs also have a "dead coil" at the bottom. This is a coil that does not compress but rather just sits in the spring seat. Once the dead coil is removed the rest of the spring will sit in the seat the same way.
Remember, you can always cut more if your first cut didn't lower the car enough.
Try removing 1 coil or half a coil at a time until it sits the way you want it.
But I want my car to be "slammed" without spending any money, what should I do? Remember when I mentioned common sense? This is the point at which you should ask yourself how good your idea really is. Cutting too much out of your springs will make them too short for them to remain in contact with the spring seats at all times and may lead to a situation where the springs become unseated during the extension of the suspension system. Even hitting a huge pothole or speed bump can be the same as hitting a jump when your springs are too short (Trust me, I KNOW) Use your head, if an idea sounds sketchy that's because it's probably really sketchy. If you want to roll with stance scene then your best bet is to save your money and buy coilovers.
Additional information
It is said that as a rule of thumb, your spring rate will increase 50lbs. per coil cut. Also, cutting your springs and continuing to use an old set of shocks will result in the shocks blowing out so it is wise to replace the shocks while you have your springs out so you don't have to take everything apart again later.
Below is a measurement I took before cutting my front springs:
Here is the same measurement taken after cutting 2 coils out of the front:
Your results may vary. I forgot to take pictures before cutting my rear springs.
Hopefully you found this useful. Have fun and remember, USE COMMON SENSE.
Last edited:
The first link to the Hotrod article has moved.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/perfect-v8-swapped-volvo/
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/perfect-v8-swapped-volvo/